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Joined
Feb 23, 2011
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514
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Location
Santee, SC
My Car
72 Mach I Q code
61 Impala
67 Chevelle
78 Bradley GT II
I am not happy with my paint job, It is single stage dark metallic blue, the brand is Limco. I'm wondering if I can sand it down...lightly..and re shoot it.

can I use the paint on it as a primer?

it is mostly just full of trash...i think it was painted in a sand storm, lol.

 
Sorry to hear about the paint. It can be very frustrating. i know nothing about Limco. I do know some paints have high recoat sensitivity, read wrinkle up when recoated. From what little experience I have I'd say it is unlikely with cured single stage paint. You might try repainting a small removable piece and see what happens. Nothing to lose at this point. Chuck

 
it is mostly just full of trash...i think it was painted in a sand storm, lol.
If nothing else, particles in the paint will need to be sanded out smooth. Even if you have a compatible paint, they will show up even more if the new paint is decent.

 
I agree try a small piece first. I looked up Limco and it appears to be an economy single stage paint. In other words Acrylic Enamel. Its made by BASF. the one thing that stood out to me is that it seems to build about a 2 to 3 Mil thickness,which is getting right up there. So i guess the bottom line is what you want to recoat with, if it's a stronger chemical that would blister the old finish, or not. maybe once you try your test piece a coat of sealer will be needed. GOOD LUCK

 
I am not happy with my paint job, It is single stage dark metallic blue, the brand is Limco. I'm wondering if I can sand it down...lightly..and re shoot it.

can I use the paint on it as a primer?

it is mostly just full of trash...i think it was painted in a sand storm, lol.
Don..Limco is pure junk !! Here's what you need to do to IF you want to use it as a base..Wet sand down the entire car with 400..You then need to epoxy prime the entire car with spi epoxy primer (check my video "prime time") Follow their instructions to the t for using the epoxy primer as a sealer..you can do what's called a wet on wet where you won't have to sand the epoxy primer just spray the primer wait the specified dry time then shoot the car. I would not do a single stage finish for a metallic It's old technology & a waste of your time & money. Spi has some really nice affordable clears too.

 
I am not happy with my paint job, It is single stage dark metallic blue, the brand is Limco. I'm wondering if I can sand it down...lightly..and re shoot it.

can I use the paint on it as a primer?

it is mostly just full of trash...i think it was painted in a sand storm, lol.
Don..Limco is pure junk !! Here's what you need to do to IF you want to use it as a base..Wet sand down the entire car with 400..You then need to epoxy prime the entire car with spi epoxy primer (check my video "prime time") Follow their instructions to the t for using the epoxy primer as a sealer..you can do what's called a wet on wet where you won't have to sand the epoxy primer just spray the primer wait the specified dry time then shoot the car. I would not do a single stage finish for a metallic It's old technology & a waste of your time & money. Spi has some really nice affordable clears too.
X 2

 
Don, how bad?

Try wet sanding with 2000 and buffing

 
yes.. what Scott said is the way to go but it is basically a new paint job also... More if your surface preparation is not good either. I dont agree with the try on a small piece first even if i RESPECT Pappy all the way!!...

The problem i see is that if you try on your valance, you are going to have a 99% chances it works good... I don´t think a new coat will "damage" your old sanded paint right away but the problem is that in the future, the more exposed to sun surfaces as the rood, hood etc will be the ones that tells you if your recoat came through ok or not...

In few words, if I were you i just start by trying to sand and polish as good as i can the actual paint job... As Don said, a good wet sanded till 2000 or 2500 and then polish can actually remove that particles sticked into your clear coat... It can be a lot better than it is now actually... Then, if you cant live with that paint job, go for Scott´s option and in that new trip, get a better body preparation in order to justify the new invest in time and money...

But if i were you i´ll start by a week of wetsanding and then, see what is the actual best result you can get with the paint job you actually have.


I didn´t read that you used one stage metallic paint... That´s the lowest line Mark... In the future try to always go for polyester base and clear coat and with the best brand you can get... at the beginning, it cost a LITTLE more but that is something you NEED to know you are using the best you can afford...

 
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