Well, it might depend on how you want to go about doing it. The door panels have the crank hole already positioned and cut-out - you're kind of stuck with that no matter what. I'm no expert on factory power window set-ups, but I believe the power window switches will cover up the crank holes, as they appear to be installed in those positions.
OK so, are you wanting to use stock-ish parts to do this? If so, then you'll need to obtain all the stock-ish components (motors, glass, regulators, switches, etc.).
If you're wanting to do a manual/power hybrid conversion (that's what I call it), then you'll need to 'settle' for something that's not quite factory in appearance, and might even wind up costing a little bit less than factory components. If you're OK with that, read on.
You can get some universal add-on motors from SPAL, Electric Life, Autoloc, etc. Those motors are cable-driven with hubs that fit over the manual crank shafts - you keep the manual crank mechanisms, regulators, glass, etc. The motors themselves wind up in the bottom of the doors, out of the way and secure to not interfere with the manual regulators and glass. Run the wiring to your switch locations and a power source, and now you have power windows. I ran my switches to the center console (GM-style) since I had holes in the console anyway (I just re-purposed them for the switches), but there are plenty of instructions available by the motor companies (SPAL, et al) on how to wire up the switches to be used with a 'master' driver side switch set-up (involves a little more wiring and some relays). The kits come with caps for the cranks, since they actually stick out through the door panels (I want to put a set of the cranks on mine anyway, just to freak people out when I hit the power buttons and watch them wind up by themselves... LOL!). You'll need to fine a new location for the door switches, since the manual crank shafts still occupy the holes in the door panels... so, it won't appear absolutely factory, if that's what you're going for.
There are add-on power lock systems as well. I have a set of Autoloc power locks, which work either stand-alone or plugged into a keyless entry/alarm system (which I also have... just not installed yet). They also use the existing manual locks, with the motors secured inside the doors, out of the way, using rods fastened to the lock 'pins' (that stick up out of the door panels) to lock/unlock the doors. They literally push the pins up, or pull them down as needed. Mine also work together - if you pull one up (unlock - either by key or manually pulling it up), it will unlock the other side... same for locking.
The quarter windows are a little more involved - you definitely need a set of regulators from a coupe, 'vert, or a fastback with roll-up quarter windows. There aren't any repop kits for this, to my knowledge... you'll need to score them from a donor car. Easy to install, as all of the parts were made to fit into all body styles - you'll just need the fasteners and all the hardware. Your fixed quarter window glass will bolt onto the glass holder that works with the regulator. Here's a great write-up on how to do this:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1971-1972-1973-mustang-fastback-wind-down-quarter-window-conversion-tutorial
As for manual or power quarter windows, I guess it depends on which ones you wind up with. Again, score a set of the universal motors (SPAL, et al), and install them the same as the door units, run the wiring, and now you have power roll-up quarter windows.
The interior quarter trim panels don't have the holes for the quarter window cranks already pre-punched - you'll need to do that yourself. I opted to not punch mine, and the manual cranks for the quarter windows are hidden. I also have the ABS repop quarter trim panels, so there might be a bit of difference between those and the thinner, factory-style panels (mine are a lot more rigid, for instance).
BTW - I highly recommend the SPAL motors. I started with Electric Life units, and they suck - the belts pass-by each other in a single flexible channel, which tends to tear the teeth apart and cause drag. The SPALs use individual flexible shafts for the belts, so there's no drag or damage to be had.
Hope that helps!