PS Pump priming

[kingb1973]

So after the P/S pump has been drained, what is the best way to prime before starting the engine??

 

[Stanglover]

So after the P/S pump has been drained, what is the best way to prime before starting the engine??

First, use Ford ATF only. Use a funnel and pour in about 1/2 quart just to get it going to the PS box. I raise the front wheel off the ground to make turning from LTL easier. Also a good idea to have help turning the wheels while you continue to fill the pump reservoir, getting the air out of the system. I forget how much it takes, but do NOT over fill it. Once it seems to turn fully without noises, I take mine out for a run to test and get it all wormed up. At that point while on level ground, check the level when hot. It should just the to the top of the hash marks. Drive it some more to make sure all the air is out of it and check it again. Job done.

Oh, I assume you have the big round pump, but basically the same thing if not.

Geoff.

 

[kingb1973]

So after the P/S pump has been drained, what is the best way to prime before starting the engine??

First, use Ford ATF only. Use a funnel and pour in about 1/2 quart just to get it going to the PS box. I raise the front wheel off the ground to make turning from LTL easier. Also a good idea to have help turning the wheels while you continue to fill the pump reservoir, getting the air out of the system. I forget how much it takes, but do NOT over fill it. Once it seems to turn fully without noises, I take mine out for a run to test and get it all wormed up. At that point while on level ground, check the level when hot. It should just the to the top of the hash marks. Drive it some more to make sure all the air is out of it and check it again. Job done.

Oh, I assume you have the big round pump, but basically the same thing if not.

Geoff.

Working with an old Thompson pump. I took it off the Mach to do other things, but, it will not turn when on the bench. Do we think there may be an internal problem??

 

[NOT A T5]

I sent my pump to Stangersite.com for a complete rebuilt. Works extremely well and no noise. 88 bucks plus shipping and your choice of black or teal!

 

[RC92234]

I sent my pump to Stangersite.com for a complete rebuilt. Works extremely well and no noise. 88 bucks plus shipping and your choice of black or teal!

J-u-s-t curious: how long did it take? I hear he does good work at good prices, so it’s prol’ly worth the wait.

However — there’s lots of project waiting on the pump to go in.

 

[NOT A T5]

I sent my pump to Stangersite.com for a complete rebuilt. Works extremely well and no noise. 88 bucks plus shipping and your choice of black or teal!

J-u-s-t curious: how long did it take? I hear he does good work at good prices, so it’s prol’ly worth the wait.

However — there’s lots of project waiting on the pump to go in.

It took about 3 months to get it back, guy said he was extremely busy and I wasn't in a hurry. If your housing or can is dented he can either fix it if it's not too bad or he'll swap it out for a better one.

 

[RC92234]

I sent my pump to Stangersite.com for a complete rebuilt. Works extremely well and no noise. 88 bucks plus shipping and your choice of black or teal!

J-u-s-t curious: how long did it take? I hear he does good work at good prices, so it’s prol’ly worth the wait.

However — there’s lots of project waiting on the pump to go in.

It took about 3 months to get it back, guy said he was extremely busy and I wasn't in a hurry. If your housing or can is dented he can either fix it if it's not too bad or he'll swap it out for a better one.

Thanks... I guess I'm about 2/3rds the way there.  That's ok - I don't plan to work until summer is over and it cools off, about mid-September.

 

[Fabrice]

May you'd want to spend 2-3 hours and spend 12 buxx (at CJP) for a rebuild kit, its really easy.

Posted a complete restore of one of these on my thread.

Really no rocket science. The only thing really needed is the pulley extractor. In the states you can rent them at most car shops, over here, forced to bought one from snap-on, tho less than the repair costs stated above. I've actually used it already 3 times since then. Not your daily tool, but still handy to have.

The second thing to know is that when pump looks empty and is out of it casing, its not! Once you open the "bell" inside, there is another 30cc trapped in there. So may you'd do it, make sure you have some container underneath.

If you need refill, with all new o-rings/gaskets or just because it went out. Once you have the hoses back on it, fill till level. Turn pulley by hand before place belt on.

Once car runs, stop after few secs. check level again, then restart and turn the wheels from side to side and let it there 2-4 secs. Check level once more, you should be good to go.

 

[kcmash]

I just did this to mine. my pump has been sitting for the last 15 years while I restored the car.  I did not rebuild the pump or replace any seals, I just drained it and cleaned it up then painted it.  

I followed the hose manufacturer steps for bleeding. 

First disconnect the return hose from the pump.

Second Phillip pump reservoir with fluid all the way.

3rd crank the engine until clear fluid comes out return hose into reservoir you have buy it.

Once the fluid is coming out consistent go ahead and reattach the return hose start it up and turn it side-to-side with the engine running until you get rid of all noises keep checking the fluid level and make sure it is topped off. 

When I did this with mine the first couple drives felt like nothing worked and I had a bad pump I was getting very little assist if any now that I've driven it some is normalized and it works great. No leaks and no noises.

Kcmash

 

[73pony]

I just did this to mine. my pump has been sitting for the last 15 years while I restored the car.  I did not rebuild the pump or replace any seals, I just drained it and cleaned it up then painted it.  

I followed the hose manufacturer steps for bleeding. 

First disconnect the return hose from the pump.

Second Phillip pump reservoir with fluid all the way.

3rd crank the engine until clear fluid comes out return hose into reservoir you have buy it.

Once the fluid is coming out consistent go ahead and reattach the return hose start it up and turn it side-to-side with the engine running until you get rid of all noises keep checking the fluid level and make sure it is topped off. 

When I did this with mine the first couple drives felt like nothing worked and I had a bad pump I was getting very little assist if any now that I've driven it some is normalized and it works great. No leaks and no noises.

Kcmash

+1 this is how I did mine as well with the same results, took a little bit of driving.

 

[RC92234]

May you'd want to spend 2-3 hours and spend 12 buxx (at CJP) for a rebuild kit, its really easy.

Posted a complete restore of one of these on my thread.

Really no rocket science. The only thing really needed is the pulley extractor. In the states you can rent them at most car shops, over here, forced to bought one from snap-on, tho less than the repair costs stated above. I've actually used it already 3 times since then. Not your daily tool, but still handy to have.

The second thing to know is that when pump looks empty and is out of it casing, its not! Once you open the "bell" inside, there is another 30cc trapped in there. So may you'd do it, make sure you have some container underneath.

If you need refill, with all new o-rings/gaskets or just because it went out. Once you have the hoses back on it, fill till level. Turn pulley by hand before place belt on.

Once car runs, stop after few secs. check level again, then restart and turn the wheels from side to side and let it there 2-4 secs. Check level once more, you should be good to go.

I did consider it, and read multiple posts on how. Seems fairly straightforward and the repair kit is inexpensive.  

But there are also stories of newbies trying and ruining their originals and needing replacements, so in my quest to try and stay as close to original as possible and knowing my own limitations, I sent it out.

 

[Fabrice]

I did consider it, and read multiple posts on how. Seems fairly straightforward and the repair kit is inexpensive.  

But there are also stories of newbies trying and ruining their originals and needing replacements

I totally get it. The first time you do it, it feels like you open some kind of mysterious box with hightech secrets inside.

In practice, you'd be amazed how easy that is. You can take picts each and every part that you remove. I always do.

In fact the same applies to most of the stuff you'd find on our cars.

I can't really imagine what the "newbies" you mention did to f... that up really. Must be the same type as those trying to remove spark plugs with pliers...

One thing is sure, you save yourself a dirty job!