quarter panel patching

[jt.db]

after the 50 mph wind, the car cover collapsed on my car, and now im set back even further , but that has reminded me that i need to keep going with the car.

this is my idea. 







what do you guys think about cutting it here? i figured since i have the small spectra patch that goes just past the side marker it would be the easiest spot, IFF the rust does not extend pass this point. As I've never done a panel replacement before and this spot does not tie into the wheel arch fortunately i feel like it would be the easiest part. But if im wrong let me know and please give me input about how to properly do this repair. theres not a single thing i want to do wrong on it, ive replaced the trunk floor and tail light panel as well as both drop offs, but i havent welded the old quarter onto the drop offs, because i wanted to wait.

To do list?

* Buy all bumper mounting hardware

** new "stone deflector" (is this reproduced?)

* mount and testfit to clamped panel

*** weld

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I would go far enough up so you can work the inside of the patch also. That way when trunk open it does not show the patch.

Also do not do a lap joint for the patch. Do a butt joint, tack in several spots and keep the panel cool to prevent warping. Keep moving around when welding. Look for good videos on youtube also.

There is probably rust around the wheel arch also that you do not see. Water gets in the welded flange inside the wheel opening and the rust just keeps going. Also the bottom of the wheel arch is usually rusted and the trunk drop off.

 

[JimB73]

Just a thought, when I did my quarter panel I stripped the paint off the whole area. That way you can see what you're working with.

 

[jt.db]

I would go far enough up so you can work the inside of the patch also. That way when trunk open it does not show the patch.

Also do not do a lap joint for the patch. Do a butt joint, tack in several spots and keep the panel cool to prevent warping. Keep moving around when welding. Look for good videos on youtube also.

There is probably rust around the wheel arch also that you do not see. Water gets in the welded flange inside the wheel opening and the rust just keeps going. Also the bottom of the wheel arch is usually rusted and the trunk drop off.

i fixed rust inside the wheel arch, as i cleaned up the wells when i replaced my trunk floor. i rust prevented the rails as well.

 this was probably a repair due before the floor/drop offs, but alas its already been done.

 

[jt.db]

Done. Thank you guys for suggesting to buttweld it. it was a surprisingly easy repair that went through perfectly. 



So now, I just need my saturday and sunday to seam seal the car, then put the bumper and valence on, i just need to order a new license plate light, and hardware for the bumper, and the "rear stone deflector"

 

[73pony]

Nice Job.

For the rear stone deflector check with Don at OMS, he is a site supported and posted in the thread just a week or so ago that he has some of these.

 

[jt.db]

Nice Job.

For the rear stone deflector check with Don at OMS, he is a site supported and posted in the thread just a week or so ago that he has some of these.

Yes, thank you so much. Is the hardware separate or from what ive seen welded in?

 

[rackerm]

after the 50 mph wind, the car cover collapsed on my car, and now im set back even further , but that has reminded me that i need to keep going with the car.

this is my idea. 

what do you guys think about cutting it here? i figured since i have the small spectra patch that goes just past the side marker it would be the easiest spot, IFF the rust does not extend pass this point. As I've never done a panel replacement before and this spot does not tie into the wheel arch fortunately i feel like it would be the easiest part. But if im wrong let me know and please give me input about how to properly do this repair. theres not a single thing i want to do wrong on it, ive replaced the trunk floor and tail light panel as well as both drop offs, but i havent welded the old quarter onto the drop offs, because i wanted to wait.

To do list?

* Buy all bumper mounting hardware

** new "stone deflector" (is this reproduced?)

* mount and testfit to clamped panel

*** weld

They do not reproduce the 73 rear stone deflector. These are a one year item and getting hard to find.

The rear bumper mounting brackets are also 73 specific. They are slightly longer pushing the bumper out further to accommodate the new 1973 5 miles an hour bumper federal regulation. These are getting hard to find too since they are a one year item.

The other option would be to remove the two rubber quarter panel bumper fillers and not install the stone deflector and get the more common (repro) 71-72 bumper mounting brackets. This will pull the bumper in like it is on the 71-72 cars and it looks better. You will need to fill the small screw holes in the quarter panel where the rubber fillers attach.

 

[jt.db]

after the 50 mph wind, the car cover collapsed on my car, and now im set back even further , but that has reminded me that i need to keep going with the car.

this is my idea. 

what do you guys think about cutting it here? i figured since i have the small spectra patch that goes just past the side marker it would be the easiest spot, IFF the rust does not extend pass this point. As I've never done a panel replacement before and this spot does not tie into the wheel arch fortunately i feel like it would be the easiest part. But if im wrong let me know and please give me input about how to properly do this repair. theres not a single thing i want to do wrong on it, ive replaced the trunk floor and tail light panel as well as both drop offs, but i havent welded the old quarter onto the drop offs, because i wanted to wait.

To do list?

* Buy all bumper mounting hardware

** new "stone deflector" (is this reproduced?)

* mount and testfit to clamped panel

*** weld

They do not reproduce the 73 rear stone deflector. These are a one year item and getting hard to find.

The rear bumper mounting brackets are also 73 specific. They are slightly longer pushing the bumper out further to accommodate the new 1973 5 miles an hour bumper federal regulation. These are getting hard to find too since they are a one year item.

The other option would be to remove the two rubber quarter panel bumper fillers and not install the stone deflector and get the more common (repro) 71-72 bumper mounting brackets. This will pull the bumper in like it is on the 71-72 cars and it looks better. You will need to fill the small screw holes in the quarter panel where the rubber fillers attach.

ahhhh **** i bought all new hardware for the bumper not knowing any of that. . . i would have deleted the deflector but i already bought the 73 hardware. My tail light panel did not have the holes in the first place so i drilled them out for no reason either . . .

 

[rackerm]

after the 50 mph wind, the car cover collapsed on my car, and now im set back even further , but that has reminded me that i need to keep going with the car.

this is my idea. 

what do you guys think about cutting it here? i figured since i have the small spectra patch that goes just past the side marker it would be the easiest spot, IFF the rust does not extend pass this point. As I've never done a panel replacement before and this spot does not tie into the wheel arch fortunately i feel like it would be the easiest part. But if im wrong let me know and please give me input about how to properly do this repair. theres not a single thing i want to do wrong on it, ive replaced the trunk floor and tail light panel as well as both drop offs, but i havent welded the old quarter onto the drop offs, because i wanted to wait.

To do list?

* Buy all bumper mounting hardware

** new "stone deflector" (is this reproduced?)

* mount and testfit to clamped panel

*** weld

They do not reproduce the 73 rear stone deflector. These are a one year item and getting hard to find.

The rear bumper mounting brackets are also 73 specific. They are slightly longer pushing the bumper out further to accommodate the new 1973 5 miles an hour bumper federal regulation. These are getting hard to find too since they are a one year item.

The other option would be to remove the two rubber quarter panel bumper fillers and not install the stone deflector and get the more common (repro) 71-72 bumper mounting brackets. This will pull the bumper in like it is on the 71-72 cars and it looks better. You will need to fill the small screw holes in the quarter panel where the rubber fillers attach.

ahhhh **** i bought all new hardware for the bumper not knowing any of that. . . i would have deleted the deflector but i already bought the 73 hardware. My tail light panel did not have the holes in the first place so i drilled them out for no reason either . . .

If you already have the longer 73 bumper mounts and the stone deflector you can easily sell them.  The stone deflector mounting holes can be plugged with small plastic plugs and you will never see it behind the pulled in the bumper. A while back I installed the 71-72 setup and then the 73 setup on my 1973 car.. comparison pic below.

 

[jt.db]

They do not reproduce the 73 rear stone deflector. These are a one year item and getting hard to find.

The rear bumper mounting brackets are also 73 specific. They are slightly longer pushing the bumper out further to accommodate the new 1973 5 miles an hour bumper federal regulation. These are getting hard to find too since they are a one year item.

The other option would be to remove the two rubber quarter panel bumper fillers and not install the stone deflector and get the more common (repro) 71-72 bumper mounting brackets. This will pull the bumper in like it is on the 71-72 cars and it looks better. You will need to fill the small screw holes in the quarter panel where the rubber fillers attach.

ahhhh **** i bought all new hardware for the bumper not knowing any of that. . . i would have deleted the deflector but i already bought the 73 hardware. My tail light panel did not have the holes in the first place so i drilled them out for no reason either . . .

If you already have the longer 73 bumper mounts and the stone deflector you can easily sell them.  The stone deflector mounting holes can be plugged with small plastic plugs and you will never see it behind the pulled in the bumper. A while back I installed the 71-72 setup and then the 73 setup on my 1973 car.. comparison pic below.

Is the extended bumper actually useful safety wise? I prefer the cut back look like you did, but I am a new driver, and Im 100% positive will at least get into a fender bender with this car at one point. if the bumper will save the rear trunk brace rail I'll leave it on, because I do not want to put another one on, but if it doesn't do anything i might as well make the car look better.

 

[jt.db]

Also, Does anybody know where to get the colormatch paint for Blue Glow (3K) and what would I do for clear coat? I'm fairly new to mechanics and I am just learning here and there. I want to cover up the primer for now until I get all the body work done, then the car can be sent off for blast & paint.

 

[jt.db]

I would go far enough up so you can work the inside of the patch also. That way when trunk open it does not show the patch.

Also do not do a lap joint for the patch. Do a butt joint, tack in several spots and keep the panel cool to prevent warping. Keep moving around when welding. Look for good videos on youtube also.

There is probably rust around the wheel arch also that you do not see. Water gets in the welded flange inside the wheel opening and the rust just keeps going. Also the bottom of the wheel arch is usually rusted and the trunk drop off.

+1 you were right on that one. When I pulled the quarter off, all my powerwashing went to waste on my driveway as it is orange again, but Ive patched the wheel arches properly, then de-rusted them then sprayed them with rust bullet, the trunk and drop offs have been replaced as well.

 

[rackerm]

ahhhh **** i bought all new hardware for the bumper not knowing any of that. . . i would have deleted the deflector but i already bought the 73 hardware. My tail light panel did not have the holes in the first place so i drilled them out for no reason either . . .

If you already have the longer 73 bumper mounts and the stone deflector you can easily sell them.  The stone deflector mounting holes can be plugged with small plastic plugs and you will never see it behind the pulled in the bumper. A while back I installed the 71-72 setup and then the 73 setup on my 1973 car.. comparison pic below.

Is the extended bumper actually useful safety wise? I prefer the cut back look like you did, but I am a new driver, and Im 100% positive will at least get into a fender bender with this car at one point. if the bumper will save the rear trunk brace rail I'll leave it on, because I do not want to put another one on, but if it doesn't do anything i might as well make the car look better.

Well. Ford extended the bumper to meet the new Federal 5 mile an hour bumper regulation. Theoretically, it was supposed to prevent or reduce damage at 5 miles an hour and below. I suppose it does since it passed the fed. reg. back then, but I have my doubts that it makes much of a difference. Any bump to the flimsy chrome bumper and it bends or the rubber fillers and stone defector are damaged.

 

[jt.db]

If you already have the longer 73 bumper mounts and the stone deflector you can easily sell them.  The stone deflector mounting holes can be plugged with small plastic plugs and you will never see it behind the pulled in the bumper. A while back I installed the 71-72 setup and then the 73 setup on my 1973 car.. comparison pic below.

Is the extended bumper actually useful safety wise? I prefer the cut back look like you did, but I am a new driver, and Im 100% positive will at least get into a fender bender with this car at one point. if the bumper will save the rear trunk brace rail I'll leave it on, because I do not want to put another one on, but if it doesn't do anything i might as well make the car look better.

Well. Ford extended the bumper to meet the new Federal 5 mile an hour bumper regulation. Theoretically, it was supposed to prevent or reduce damage at 5 miles an hour and below. I suppose it does since it passed the fed. reg. back then, but I have my doubts that it makes much of a difference. Any bump to the flimsy chrome bumper and it bends or the rubber fillers and stone defector are damaged.

Clean bumper it is!