Quarter Window Seal R&R

[BFH 429]

Hi Guys...moving onto the rear quarter windows on my Mach 1.  The seals on it need to be R&R'd.  I picked up some new pieces from NPD, but no one I've talked to so far knows how to change these out.  If anyone out there has a step-by-step - or better yet a video - I'd love to see...

Thx

Marc 

 

[tony-muscle]

Do you mean the moulding on the forward face of the window? Here is a thread where I started discussing it. The March 17 posts explains a little.

 

[69 Rustang]

If you are talking about the rubber seal that is on the front edge of the quarter glass that seals to the door glass, I just did this a couple of weeks ago.  I started out like your question saying, “hmm, how do you do this”.  As an experiment I grabbed the seal on one of the windows and tugged it upwards and it quickly slid right out.  Too easy I thought to myself.  So I set about trying to install the new seal.  Not as easy, but easier than I ever expected.  I used a little Windex as lubricant in the channel.  I was done with both of them in less than 15 minutes.  Sorry I did not take any video or pictures.  The trickiest bit was getting the part to bend and fit in at the bottom and that just took some careful maneuvering.  

 

[BFH 429]

Yes - I think these posts shed a lot of light.  By the sounds of it, adhesive is not needed?  I'll admit, I'm a little surprised.  I thought for sure the seals would have to be held in place by something like that.  I guess that "setting rubber" takes the place? 

 

[Stanglover]

Marc, Maybe I misunderstood what you were talking about. If you're talking the window to window seal, red arrow, it's a simple job. I replaced mine in minutes. If you're talking about the frame seal, green arrow, I didn't do them, my paint guy did and he also used a body sealant along the entire roof line between the two aluminum bright trim pieces. TIP: when you install the trim, do NOT overtighten the screws and make sure the rubber foam strip is correctly placed. My "guy" overtightened the screws on mine, and I get squeaks from body flex. very annoying!

Hope that clears up your question.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

if you are doing the roof rails do not use the foam tape it is junk was when new and still is. The week i got my 1973 Mach 1 brand new it rained. I had 2" of water in the back floor due to roof rail leak when brand new. NPD even has in their catalog not to use the foam tape. Much better solution is 3-M strip calk is never hardens, flexes with body and seals up that horrible surface up there. Here are some pics of what is in there. The rectangle holes are for locating the trim and look at all the steps. my car has vinyl roof also so more junk to seal up. The headliner is   also in there.

 

[69 Rustang]

Interesting, I spent some time looking for the foam (and was planning to order it).  I would have thought the 3M strip caulk was too rigid to compress properly.  Maybe let it sit in the sun a bit prior to installation on an unusually warm day?

 

[Stanglover]

Alternatively as I've said before, my paint guy installed mine with the foam but then sealed the gap with a black sealer, so no leaks.

The only thing is he tightened the screws a bit too much, so watch for that.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The 3-M sealer never hardens and flexes with body. You can get the foam tape but is junk.

 

[Stanglover]

The 3-M sealer never hardens and flexes with body. You can get the foam tape but is junk.

No argument here.