Questions about working on 351C engine

[tony-muscle]

Before I start flexing my hands around the engine maybe you guys have some tips on how to get to the distributor bolt for tuning. I have a 71 Mach 1 351C with the A/C compressor and there is hardly any room. I was hoping that this car had more space for working on the engine, but things are fairly cramped under the hood.

Other tips on difficult to reach bolts?

 

[kidwithfastback=fast]

There is a special tool for it, perhaps you don't have one.

They look like this:

 

[72HCODE]

There is a special wrench for reaching the dist bolt on AC cars.

It's pouring rain out otherwise I can take a photo of mine

But I got it at sears.

It's bent like a big C so you can clear the AC compressor and turn the bolt.

As for clearance many times you need to pull the distributor and move it one tooth then reinsert so you can move the distributor for more advanced timing.

I've had to use claw foot wrenches, and so pm special extension hexes to reach some bolts or get the torque just right.

The exhaust manifolds are hard to get at.

Removing some parts requires pulling steering linkage then you have to feed some parts from underneath the car.

Pulling the oil pan will require pulling the motor at least up 3" which means poping motor mounts.

Before I start flexing my hands around the engine maybe you guys have some tips on how to get to the distributor bolt for tuning. I have a 71 Mach 1 351C with the A/C compressor and there is hardly any room. I was hoping that this car had more space for working on the engine, but things are fairly cramped under the hood.

Other tips on difficult to reach bolts?

 

[will e]

The intake manifold does not have any water passages. There is no need to drain the engine if you are removing the intake. Some of the 'discount auto store' manuals will include the draining step. Many older fords did have water passages in the intake.

Also, you are aware of the differences between the 2v and 4v designation? Wrenching is the same but not all parts interchange.

 

[InjectedMach]

They have a Valley Pan under the intake manifold to keep hot oil off the intake and 2 barrel heads and gaskets are different(smaller) than the 4 barrel versions. That pan can be hard to find but felpro makes it and do not go without it should you pull the intake for any reason.

I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex attachment to loosen the bolt on mine.

 

[cudak888]

They have a Valley Pan under the intake manifold to keep hot oil off the intake and 2 barrel heads and gaskets are different(smaller) than the 4 barrel versions. That pan can be hard to find but felpro makes it and do not go without it should you pull the intake for any reason.

I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex attachment to loosen the bolt on mine.

Not in agreement here.

It's a luck of the draw if you can get those aluminum valley pans to sit right upon installation, and if you get it wrong, you'll wind up with a phantom vacuum leak.

Better off installing the FelPro gaskets with the heat riser blockoff without the pan. This may or may not be an ideal solution for colder climates, but it works in South Florida.

-Kurt

 

[InjectedMach]

I have always had good luck setting the pan in place under the guide pins on the heads, little more tricky with Aluminum heads with no pins. Also I never use the paper gaskets or "silicone" but a product called right stuff its in the same tube form but is genuine elastomeric rubber ...permatex makes it.

Either way its good info to know you can get by without it Kurt, thanks

joe

 

[72HCODE]

the turkey pan is worthless if you go aftermarket with a performer intake anyway.

those pans really are a total pain to deal with.

the feltpro gaskets are complete hit or miss also. 9 out of 10 you lay a thick bead of permatex everywhere and lay the intake in a pool of silicone then say a prayer.

i've had feltpro gaskets start going for a walk after a while and cause a leak then you have to pull everything and start over.

 

[InjectedMach]

Did not know so many had trouble with the turkey pan....

 

[tony-muscle]

This thread has taken an interesting turn into intake manifold gasket installation. All this info is very useful because that's one of the upgrades I may plan for the future. I was a bit lost when you guys where talking about "Turkey Pans", but after looking at a few pictures in the internet now I know what it is. While I was looking at intake manifold gaskets I read a lot about some people suggesting to not use the heat risers while others opine towards keeping them. I was not able to understand what's the heat riser had to do with the intake manifold gasket. I thought the heat riser was the flex tube coming off the exhaust used to heat the air into the air filter, but I am assuming there is something else related to the intake manifold. Please enlighten me because I am a bit lost.

Another question. One of my future plans is to add headers. In my engine I see that the engine hooks are attached to the iron exhaust manifold. Now, once the headers are installed, where do those hooks attach to. Still to the manifold's bolts or is there something else? Also, to install headers, do you lift the engine out, or can it be done in the little space between the block and apron?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Headers can be added in the car

most people leave the lift hooks off. With some grinding they may be able to fit. but they are just dead weight.

Getting headers in place is a challenge, but I have done it in place and have written up how I accomplished it a few times.

In a nutshell remove carb and install an engine lift plate. put the car on 4 jack stands as high as you can manage Remove motor mount completely from block on passenger side, loosen transmission mount (if manual remove zbar linkage-it is only 2 bolts) and pull engine from driver side (You are rotating engine over on it's side a s much as you can and snake header in from underneath. After installing header reinstall mount to block and drop engine back onto mount install bolt and remove bolt from other side and repeat image mirror version of what you just did.

Easy peasy, shouldn't take more than 2 hours if you have someone to assist.

 

[cudak888]

I was not able to understand what's the heat riser had to do with the intake manifold gasket. I thought the heat riser was the flex tube coming off the exhaust used to heat the air into the air filter, but I am assuming there is something else related to the intake manifold. Please enlighten me because I am a bit lost.

My mistake. I was referring to the exhaust passage that runs through the center of the cylinder head, allowing hot exhaust gases to feed into the exhaust crossover built into the stock intake designed to keep the carb warm.

The FelPro gaskets have a punched-out area for this hole on the heads, but it's up to you whether you remove the hole from the gasket or not. I keep them there.

I've yet to have an intake walk, but the aluminum Edelbrock 351 4V LB and 400 2V's are light enough that I haven't had a problem lining up the gaskets, putting sealant at the ends, and dumping them straight down by eye. No intake leaks yet.

-Kurt

 

[72HCODE]

heat riser can mean 2 things and it is confusing.

There is the heat riser that is attached to the exhaust manifold as a shield then feeds into the tube that goes to the air cleaner intake snorkel.

then there is the heat riser for the original choke, that uses the heat from the manifold to open up.

Now going with an after market intake manifold is going to force you to get rid of the original choke heat riser and it will force you to get rid of the turkey pan in the center valve gallery, it will also force you to get rid of the original carb. most after market intakes are square bore and won't allow the original carb to mount.

depends on the headers but i have installed hooker headers and removed them from my engine without lifting the engine out.

the passenger side is easy it just slides in from the top and tightening the bolts is hard but not impossible.

the drivers side is different it will not fit from the top of the engine. you have to go from underneath. it requires popping the steering cross link and outer tierod on the drivers side, swing it out of the way then you can slide an exhaust manifold in and out around the steering box.

This thread has taken an interesting turn into intake manifold gasket installation. All this info is very useful because that's one of the upgrades I may plan for the future. I was a bit lost when you guys where talking about "Turkey Pans", but after looking at a few pictures in the internet now I know what it is. While I was looking at intake manifold gaskets I read a lot about some people suggesting to not use the heat risers while others opine towards keeping them. I was not able to understand what's the heat riser had to do with the intake manifold gasket. I thought the heat riser was the flex tube coming off the exhaust used to heat the air into the air filter, but I am assuming there is something else related to the intake manifold. Please enlighten me because I am a bit lost.

Another question. One of my future plans is to add headers. In my engine I see that the engine hooks are attached to the iron exhaust manifold. Now, once the headers are installed, where do those hooks attach to. Still to the manifold's bolts or is there something else? Also, to install headers, do you lift the engine out, or can it be done in the little space between the block and apron?

 

[73vertproject]

I installed both sides of my Hooker Competition headers into the 'vert from the bottom without removing or loosening anything, except maybe the starter? Can't remember for sure. Definitely didn't loosen engine mounts or suspension parts. I do remember it was an insanely difficult thing to align header/gasket/bolt hole. If you have fingers the size of a three-year-old you can do it easily.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Heres what I did with the turkey pan. I removed all the upper part that seals around intake ports EXCEPT for the 4 spots that have locating holes to position the pan So the pan fits inside the block doesn't touch the heads. I then drilled a few holes in the sunken part of the pan to allow any residual oil to drain. I also blocked off the heat riser passages on the heads(good for about 20hp) You do want the pan since it keeps hot oil off the bottom of the intake. I also use the SCE intake gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-252103/overview/make/ford

Now going with an after market intake manifold is going to force you to get rid of the turkey pan in the center valve gallery,

Not true although many say not to use it your giving up free hp by not using it

see my mod above

I've yet to have an intake walk, but the aluminum Edelbrock 351 4V LB and 400 2V's are light enough that I haven't had a problem lining up the gaskets, putting sealant at the ends, and dumping them straight down by eye. No intake leaks yet.

-Kurt

For any one installing an intake a little trick is to get 4 bolts that fit both sides where the heat riser would go cut off the heads..Line up the manifold on those 4 studs..drop it down..Instant perfect alignment..(see the picture 2 studs on each side)

 

[tony-muscle]

Great tips, thanks. I think my engine already has an aftermarket manifold. The one in does not look like the original one. However, I can't find any casting number or name on it to identify it.

Has anyone tried the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap?

 

[tony-muscle]

Has anyone tried the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap?

I guess it doesn't matter, from what I read it seems that it won't fit under the RAM air. I liked the idea of the cooler intake though.

I would have to take mine apart to try figuring out what brand is it.

I was referring to the exhaust passage that runs through the center of the cylinder head, allowing hot exhaust gases to feed into the exhaust crossover built into the stock intake designed to keep the carb warm.

Thanks for the specifics. I am posting this picture that shows the "heat riser" passage of the intake manifold within a circle as a clarification for future readers. Not being familiar with this engine it took me a while to figure it out.