Questions as I finish rebuild

[73vertproject]

OK, I'm coming across a few things that I can't figure out, so I'll ask them here in this thread.

First, what is this long black wire about 6 feet long? It enters the engine bay by itself through the firewall to the left of the Master Cylinder above the main wiring harness. What's it for and how is it routed?



Thanks!

Doc

 

[Wolverine]

1. Measure the resistance to make sure the wire is good before you put it back in.

2. It looks like the end you are holding attaches to forward post on the solenoid. Not exactly sure...give me a few minutes, but I think it is the wire for your headlights. That wire is a fusible link. The wire blows if there is too much current....

This post corrected by 9ZCX to: It attaches to the 20 AMP circuit breaker (it powers the top among other things depending on options) the is bolted to the single post terminal on the apron.

The end with the plastic tab that says FUSIBLE LINK is the end that gets mounted to the solenoid.

You know the going rate here is 1 answer=1 beer?

Nobody rides for free...

 

[73vertproject]

LOL. Sounds like a fair deal, but only for each suggestion that I use, not for each one offered.

It looks like the end you are holding attaches to forward post on the solenoid.

The end with the plastic tab that says FUSIBLE LINK is the end that gets mounted to the solenoid.

:huh: The end is a metal connector, and I think it goes here on the solenoid, no?



Next up: anything wrong with attaching this condenser to the shock tower where that bolt is just below it?



Thanks again!

Doc

 

[Wolverine]

LOL. Sounds like a fair deal, but only for each suggestion that I use, not for each one offered.

I take that as meaning I have 2 answers so far.

Picture is worth a thousand words...unfortunately. My condensor is mounted to the same screw as the body ground from the battery.

 

[c9zx]

It attaches to the 20 AMP circuit breaker (it powers the top among other things depending on options) the is bolted to the single post terminal on the apron. The push pin on the long wire get pushed into several small hole on the shock tower brace and firewall. You can attach the radio noise condensor to any ground. The factory used the bottom regulator attaching screw to secure the condensor. Chuck

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks guys. That solves both issues presented.

Next, where to attach the negative battery ground?

And where does the wire coming out of the bottom of the dizzy attach to?

Doc

 

[Wolverine]

Next, where to attach the negative battery ground?

Engine Block. Passenger side. Not shared. Another part to add to my list.

And where does the wire coming out of the bottom of the dizzy attach to?

Distributor -.

Photo of ground cable on block.

Just to be safe, the photo here is of a 302...but I am pretty sure the 351C is the same.

Next, where to attach the negative battery ground?

Engine Block. Passenger side. Not shared. Another part to add to my list.

And where does the wire coming out of the bottom of the dizzy attach to?

Distributor -.

Photo of ground cable on block.

 

[Don C]

The wire coming out of the distributor goes to the negative terminal on the coil.

 

[c9zx]

see this post. for engine ground. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-alternator-wiring-seloniod-msd-box?highlight=ground

The lead from the distributor goes to the post on the coil marked DIST or - or neg.. You must be getting very close. Do you have the quick start and break in procedure sorted out? Chuck

 

[73vertproject]

see this post. for engine ground. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-alternator-wiring-seloniod-msd-box?highlight=ground

The lead from the distributor goes to the post on the coil marked DIST or - or neg.. You must be getting very close. Do you have the quick start and break in procedure sorted out? Chuck

Thanks for the link, Chuck. Yep, I'm feeling close, but am finding more stuff to deal with as I get closer. I'll be looking at "Pre-starting checklists" any time now...

I found the dedicated ground to the block thanks to James (Wolverine). Since I get to be scorekeeper, I've got him down for three cervezas. Mas o menos.

Can't find ANY markings on my new OEM coil from NAPA, IC1O (V11256). But then again it's late, and tomorrow's another day....

Thanks for all the help today - - I can certainly see the light at the end of the tunnel....

Doc

 

[Wolverine]

I corrected my earlier typo... ouch.

You should have a gold post(+) and a silver post(-) on your coil.

Gold post should be labeled BAT. Then there is a - between the gold and the silver post, but the - refers to the silver post. I took white out and labeled my coil.


And, for the record, although these are photos of my 302, the 302 came with the car.

I had N O T H I N G to do with the motor, which has leaked like a sieve through the valve guides, through the rings, through the valve covers and through the oil pan since the day I got it. My motor would not look that oily if it had a 1,000,000 miles on it.

How embarrassing...but anything to help doc turn the ignition key.

 

[73vertproject]

James ... looking good for sure. There's no embarrassment stuff at this site. We are all here to support each other with our projects...

I'll be firing this sucker up soon.... and I can still feel the overwhelming 150-things-to-do helplessness ... So once this baby is running (within a matter of days) I'm going to do as much as I can to encourage anyone else if they're facing the same challenge.

Nothing is in writing, though, until it's fired up....

Doc