Rear Power Window socket wiring

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Does anyone have a picture of the rear power window socket wiring for a 71? The two rear power windows will go down, but will not go up. All the wiring diagrams I have researched do not match the wiring of the socket and I just can’t understand why a previous owner would change the wiring in the socket. The down works from both the master control switch and the individual window switches. The up does not work from any switch
 
This is for a '72 but I think the wiring is the same. Usually when a window goes one way but not the other the ground in a switch is missing.
 

Attachments

  • Mach-PW.pdf
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Thank you sir. Have checked all the grounds. There’s two on the door and one on the frame then of course the motors are grounded to the frame also. Here’s the schematics I’m using and then an actual picture of the left rear window socket. You can see it doesn’t match the schematics.IMG_6681.jpegIMG_6678.jpegIMG_6683.jpeg
 
Looks like someone's had the switch socket apart and didn't get the wires back in the right places.

BY THE WAY... If anyone's been looking for '71-'72 power window switches, switch mounts, and bezels, they were also used in '69-'70 full-size Ford and Mercury passenger cars. I managed to snag a full set out of a '69 Mercury sedan (about 30 years ago) for next to nothing. Probably won't be as cheap now, but it's worth a look if you're nosing around a junkyard and see a Ford or Merc being parted out.
 
The motors are not grounded to the car, not electrically anyway. The motors are controlled by switching polarity. In one direction, one wire is positive the other negative. To reverse the motor, the polarity is reversed through the wires.

Use the '72 wiring diagram, it's much clearer as to the flow of power and how the switches function.

There are two grounds for the entire system, one on the driver's door, the other on the driver's a-pillar / cowl. If the other windows work, your grounds are good. Check the 2-pin plug at the harness side of the motor connector. You should have a ground on both wires with the switches neutralized. The ground runs through the switch. In one direction you should have 12V on one side, ground on the other. Switch direction and polarity will swap.

Easy way to verify the switch is good is to swap them to the passenger door - assuming that operates properly.

72 single switch wiring diagram - note that the view is from the *front* of the socket.


1713387929680.png

driver's master panel

1713387992464.png
 
The wires controlling your window motor need to be in the 2 center pins of the switch.
 
I do have the 1971 electrical schematic for Mustangs/Cougars. But, I can assure you using the 1972 or 1973 schematic will be far easier and understand. I have attached the relevant pages from the 71 and 73 schematic in the attached file snippets. I hope these are helpful. Sorry, no photos of the PW for any First Generation Mustangs. But on page 3 of the 1973 schematic snippet file are some drawings for the connectors at the power window motors.
 

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  • 1971Mustang_PowerWindowsCircuitry_20240418.pdf
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  • 1973Mustang_PowerWindowsAndRelay_20220822.pdf
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Last edited:
Does anyone have a picture of the rear power window socket wiring for a 71? The two rear power windows will go down, but will not go up. All the wiring diagrams I have researched do not match the wiring of the socket and I just can’t understand why a previous owner would change the wiring in the socket. The down works from both the master control switch and the individual window switches. The up does not work from any switch
You have all the correct wires at the switch, the Yellow and Red needs to be in the middle bottom, the Red and Yellow top middle, the Yellow and Blue top left, the Red with Light Blue (Dots) top right, and the Red with Light Blue dashes in the bottom right. The first color is the dominate color and use what Hemikiller provided. Much easier to see. Hope this helps.
 
Gentlemen - first let me apologize for the very late response. Caught some type of bug (probably a grandbaby cold - not Covid) that put me on my back for three days. Finally got the energy to get back to the car. Corrected the wiring at the switches (outstanding assist HemiKiller - diagram and especially the viewpoint to use was of great assist.) Figured the PO had the same issue that is why they messed with the switch wiring. Verified master switch was wired correctly. However - did not solve the issue. Both rear windows go down - but will not go up. Both motors work fine when directly connected to power source - in both directions. It appears the only common wire between the two is #170 - Red w/Light Blue dot. It appears that wire splices twice - once to connect LH Rear and RH rear and then again to connect RH rear to RH Front. But if that wire is the issue - why does the RH Front work properly? So unless I am missing something real basic - starting to trace every wire from motor to source to hopefully find the issue.
 
If the motors work, it's all a matter of sorting out the plumbing. Clean all connections - wire ends and switch posts. With all those splices, a multimeter is your best friend. Check continuity of everything (including the switches) first. If it all rings out, load testing is next. You could have continuity, but not enough to power a load.
 
Try moving the front RH window switch to one of the back windows. It may be possible they used the wrong switch.
 
After much thought on your window problem, I decided to dig out an old switch D3AB-14529 used in ford and mercury. If you wired this switch by the schematics it wouldn't work, that 5th wire needs to provide the signal to the motor opposite the two connected together which means you may have to swap the two on the right side of the switch to provide the correct polarity to the left side of the switch.
 

Attachments

  • Winswtch.JPG
    Winswtch.JPG
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After much thought on your window problem, I decided to dig out an old switch D3AB-14529 used in ford and mercury. If you wired this switch by the schematics it wouldn't work, that 5th wire needs to provide the signal to the motor opposite the two connected together which means you may have to swap the two on the right side of the switch to provide the correct polarity to the left side of the switch.

After much thought on your window problem, I decided to dig out an old switch D3AB-14529 used in ford and mercury. If you wired this switch by the schematics it wouldn't work, that 5th wire needs to provide the signal to the motor opposite the two connected together which means you may have to swap the two on the right side of the switch to provide the correct polarity to the left side of the switch.
Long story very short. Traced and load tested every wire. Out of pure desperation pulled the plug apart at drivers side rear window to test ground as HemiKillet suggested. Ground on one side but not the other. Then just for giggles tested ground on the motor plug. One lead was grounded. Pulled the motor and had squeezed one lead between motor mount and frame when I installed the motor. Broke through the insulation and shorted out the circuit when power applied. Fixed that and found the short had burnt the main switch on drivers door. Replaced that and lo and behold all four windows now work. Thank you gentlemen for your help and suggestions. Stupid mistake and install cost too many hours of frustration to count. Got to slow down and check twice. On to interior install.
 
Long story very short. Traced and load tested every wire. Out of pure desperation pulled the plug apart at drivers side rear window to test ground as HemiKillet suggested. Ground on one side but not the other. Then just for giggles tested ground on the motor plug. One lead was grounded. Pulled the motor and had squeezed one lead between motor mount and frame when I installed the motor. Broke through the insulation and shorted out the circuit when power applied. Fixed that and found the short had burnt the main switch on drivers door. Replaced that and lo and behold all four windows now work. Thank you gentlemen for your help and suggestions. Stupid mistake and install cost too many hours of frustration to count. Got to slow down and check twice. On to interior install.
Thanks for the update, it might help others down the road.
 

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