Reco for Mechanics in Burbank Area

[1973stang]

I am hoping for recommendations for mechanic in Burbank area.

The problems I need to address

1) The car needs lot of cranking to start.

Morning is no problem. But any other starts later in the day are problem. It varies...sometimes it starts right away....most times it is a problem.

I HAVE INSTALLED ELECTRONIC IGNITION.

2) The car performance varies from start to start.

Sometimes, it runs w/o any drag at all. Gear change is very smooth. Punch the paddle and the car responds.

Sometimes it is a drag. Gear change is a big lurch. And acceleration feels like a big old car. SMELL GAS IN THE CAR WHILE DRIVING

3) Temperature reads higher than 190 (I have installed Autometer electric gauges) whenever I drive more than 65 mph for 8-10 miles.

Air-Condition feels like a huge drag on the power...and temp reads 200-205 when driving w/AC.

At these temps the car is sluggish..BUT SMOOTH ALL THE TIME...even at idle.

I have installed, 351C specific thermostat

New Radiator cap

Clutch fan

Electric fans when AC is turned ON.

Springs in radiator hose

Radiator is 3 rows of tube..Brass/Copper.

Separate Radiator for A/C

 

[72HCODE]

1) usually its is because the engine is warm but the choke is closed. feather the accelerator pedal when starting. when you start cold you push down the accelerator once to set the choke position and fast idle.

usually i hold the accelerator about 1/4-1/2 way on a warm start, then when she kicks over take foot off the pedal.

it isn't a modern car so the engine will be moody when the temps are in between cold start and hot start.

2) again could be a choke issue not opening fast enough or closing down too fast, there is some adjustment you can make depending on ambient temperature, after a few minutes does this problem go away or does it randomly linger until shutdown and engine restart?

usually you have 2 setting for the choke, summer and winter mode. in winter the choke stays closed longer till the engine comes up to temperature.

on the choke housing you will see notches these are for adjusting the choke when you find a setting you like you mark it as summer or winter, and then repeat for the season change. then you just reset the choke for the seasons you are in.

3) the A/C will put a larger strain on the the engine, but the pump could be shot internally. is the thermostat opening? can you see it open on the gauge, there should be a drop in temp when the thermo opens. a compressor that is worn out will put more load on an engine. you could also have issues with the system in the expansion valve. if that isn't working correctly it will put strain on the engine as well.

when you turn it off is there a big drop in noise and vibration through the chassis?

does the temperature drop back to 190 about 1/2 way on the gauge.

might be time for a AC compressor swap, they make modern compressor replacements for the system that are lighter use modern refrigerant and put much less load on the engine.

 

[1973stang]

72Hcode

I followed your reco. for (1) and now I don't have problem w/ sluggish car either.

And also, when the car is running smooth, the A/C does not put too much load either.

Do I need to work on carb..or just keep on doing what you reco.

But the car keeps heating up (no change in ride)...I just ordered Robershaw 180 thermostat. Hopefully that solves heating problem. I installed Stant 13469..which was listed as 351C specific...but does not have the cap.

Thanks a bunch

Rush

1) usually its is because the engine is warm but the choke is closed. feather the accelerator pedal when starting. when you start cold you push down the accelerator once to set the choke position and fast idle.

usually i hold the accelerator about 1/4-1/2 way on a warm start, then when she kicks over take foot off the pedal.

it isn't a modern car so the engine will be moody when the temps are in between cold start and hot start.

2) again could be a choke issue not opening fast enough or closing down too fast, there is some adjustment you can make depending on ambient temperature, after a few minutes does this problem go away or does it randomly linger until shutdown and engine restart?

usually you have 2 setting for the choke, summer and winter mode. in winter the choke stays closed longer till the engine comes up to temperature.

on the choke housing you will see notches these are for adjusting the choke when you find a setting you like you mark it as summer or winter, and then repeat for the season change. then you just reset the choke for the seasons you are in.

3) the A/C will put a larger strain on the the engine, but the pump could be shot internally. is the thermostat opening? can you see it open on the gauge, there should be a drop in temp when the thermo opens. a compressor that is worn out will put more load on an engine. you could also have issues with the system in the expansion valve. if that isn't working correctly it will put strain on the engine as well.

when you turn it off is there a big drop in noise and vibration through the chassis?

does the temperature drop back to 190 about 1/2 way on the gauge.

might be time for a AC compressor swap, they make modern compressor replacements for the system that are lighter use modern refrigerant and put much less load on the engine.