Rust under Upper control arm

[tfowler9]

I decided to upgrade my front suspension and steering components. I have had the car since the mid 80's. Finally time to change after 40 years. I bought the entire kit from CJ Pony Parts. I have all the old components off the car. Just cleaning up before I install the new parts, I was surprise at the amount of dirt, stones grime under the upper control arm. I clean it out and found this (attached) there is no rust anywhere on the car. It is garage kept and rarely out in the rain. I believe it has been there since I bought it. Looks like a design flaw allowing the accumulation. Don't think it is a structure issue, but still a surprise when I found it. Anyone else seeing this.
Something else - the idler arm that came with the kit is a two piece unlike the original. And does not have the elongated hole like the original (see attached). The holes on the new piece do not line up with the car. I am going to have to drill out the part to make it fit. CJ POnu Parts do not indicate that at all on their website when purchasing the kit?

Tom

 

[Sheriff41]

I'd repair the shock tower while it's apart, even if it was just to weld in some reinforcing where the rust holes have formed. Consider finding a different parts source in the future. Just my opinion.

 

[73pony]

Also. That Idler Arm will not work correctly. The geometry is wrong. Rare Parts makes the correct one for our cars. I believe the part number is 20250. +1 CJ is not my first or even 10th choice.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Agree with @73pony, the Rare Parts guys are the only ones with a correct idler arm. Concerning that newfound rust, that’s not an uncommon issue. The designed drain hole was insufficient and many of us have found rust there. I would clean it out the best I could and weld a patch there. Make sure the drain hole is large enough for the future.

 

[Flatback72]

Yeah, throw away that idler arm. I bought one the same as that with the packaging marked as for a 71-73 Mustang but it was clearly a different geometry than the original.

I ended up buying this one instead (link below) from West Coast Classic Cougar which side by side had the same geometry as the one that I had pulled out of the car:

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71idler.html?sessionthemeid=26

 

[rcadd1ct]

I used the Opentracker roller idler.

Really helped make the steering be smooth and precise

Definitely address the rust before it gets worse.

 

[tfowler9]

Yeah, throw away that idler arm. I bought one the same as that with the packaging marked as for a 71-73 Mustang but it was clearly a different geometry than the original.

I ended up buying this one instead (link below) from West Coast Classic Cougar which side by side had the same geometry as the one that I had pulled out of the car:

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71idler.html?sessionthemeid=26

Thanks for the response....this is just a great forum, best of all the Mustang Forums. I have tried to contact CJ Pony tech group and they give me the runaround. The kit also came with the inner and outer steering rods. They are shaped different than the originals I removed. Wonder if they will work when I purchase the correct Idler Arm?

 

[basstrix]

They sell bushings for the idler arm, you may want to look into rebuilding what you have. Rock Auto sells them for both ends. Pay attention to bushing diameters if you go that route...I believe there are different versions of the bushings.

 

[tony-muscle]

The shock tower integrity is important for the suspension so fix/reinforce. Unfortunately Ford designed this depression under the A-arm that collects all the stuff the tires pick up. There are drain holes at each end but with time these clog and then water puddles in the depression leading to rust. It is always a good idea to keep those drain holes open. I would clean at least once a year.