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429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
Short update video!
- Thread starter Trevynd
- Start date
Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:
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OUTSTANDING!!!!!! you picked an AWESOME color!!! Looking forward to the next video and if you can and have time maybe a few detailed pics would be very cool. Thank you for taking the time to share.
NICE!!!!!!!
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You have come a long ways. Keep pushing ahead. Getting excited about the paint. Can't wait to see it .
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That looks great! I wish I was that far along. Looking forward to your next update.
- Joined
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- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
Thank you~!!! i think so too, this video doesnt even do it justice, after i get it jammed this sunday ill be sure to take some good photos and make another post!
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Looking great for sure. I ordered a Maverick Grabber in Grabber Green in 1971.
One trick I use when sanding down the V body line into the radius. It is difficult to use some of the foam sanding blocks and keep the surface flat and straight even in the curve. I have several lengths of 3/4" EMT conduit that I use the 3-M sticky back paper on. Then for the final pass I actually use a piece of precision ground 1" dia. steel rod. Heavy but is dead straight and flat and that is what you need for the final block. It is actually the rod I use when mounting scope rings to bed them to the action on rifles. I also sand my sanding blocks flat on a piece of glass that has paper on it. The blocks get curved over time and need a touch up. I use to polish plastic molds and they have to be perfect using flat stones and polishing sticks is the only way you ever get a perfect mold polish. Blocking a car is like polishing a huge mold, lol.
Wish I had someone to shoot some video I have the cameras that I use in Africa but nobody here to shoot.
One mistake I see when using base coat clear coat is the painter does not go fine enough with the primer sand. Yes you cut the clear coat and buff glass smooth. But get down close and look through the surface and you can see the sanding scratches n the primer that the color falls into and does not smooth out. Most do not look that close but I do. 1,200 is not too fine either. My friend with restoration shop always goes that far. Today's finishes are not like the old more chemical bond than surface bond. His cars always win best pant at the shows here and have won national shows also. Wish I had a great macro lens so I could actually show what I am talking about. You would not see the scratches in primer with the single stage paints with no clear since you sand the color smooth and polish.
Looking great hope you get it done before shop time runs out.
One trick I use when sanding down the V body line into the radius. It is difficult to use some of the foam sanding blocks and keep the surface flat and straight even in the curve. I have several lengths of 3/4" EMT conduit that I use the 3-M sticky back paper on. Then for the final pass I actually use a piece of precision ground 1" dia. steel rod. Heavy but is dead straight and flat and that is what you need for the final block. It is actually the rod I use when mounting scope rings to bed them to the action on rifles. I also sand my sanding blocks flat on a piece of glass that has paper on it. The blocks get curved over time and need a touch up. I use to polish plastic molds and they have to be perfect using flat stones and polishing sticks is the only way you ever get a perfect mold polish. Blocking a car is like polishing a huge mold, lol.
Wish I had someone to shoot some video I have the cameras that I use in Africa but nobody here to shoot.
One mistake I see when using base coat clear coat is the painter does not go fine enough with the primer sand. Yes you cut the clear coat and buff glass smooth. But get down close and look through the surface and you can see the sanding scratches n the primer that the color falls into and does not smooth out. Most do not look that close but I do. 1,200 is not too fine either. My friend with restoration shop always goes that far. Today's finishes are not like the old more chemical bond than surface bond. His cars always win best pant at the shows here and have won national shows also. Wish I had a great macro lens so I could actually show what I am talking about. You would not see the scratches in primer with the single stage paints with no clear since you sand the color smooth and polish.
Looking great hope you get it done before shop time runs out.
Nice work!
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