speedometer cable 1972

[Vicus]

Hey Guys

Since few miles a rattling, related to the speed, started. I disconnected the speedometer cable and reinstalled it. Rattling at first was more quiet but not gone, then it is getting louder again.

Today I pulled the cable from the lower part of the sheath. Does not look really bad. No kink visible. I cleaned both, cable and sheath and lubricated it. Then wanted to slide the cable in again. This worked half the length, then at the metal sleeve, where the cable will be fixed at the firewall (picture below) it stopped.

Tried several times without success. Don't want to bent the cable.

Does anyone have any ideas to get over this hurdle?

Cable is still the original one and I want to keep it.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers

Frank

 

[Don C]

Did you try it from both ends? You might try running something like a brazing rod through it from the interior end, with the end rounded.

 

[Vicus]

Don

I have tried from both ends. In both cases the metal sleeve is the bottleneck.

I tried with a stiff wire. It had a little bit smaller diameter than the cable. It passed the bottleneck. I took one slightly thicker one. It stopped and bent.

Is this metal sleeve not just to fix the sheath to the firewall but also to support the cable as a guardrail?

Cheers

Frank

 

[Don C]

Yes, it is protection to keep it from being damaged by the firewall. Because they are crimped on they reduce the inside diameter slightly, and the lining wears through quicker.

You might try tapering the heavy wire and see if you can get it through and using it as a guide for the cable.

I would also check with Don at OMS to see if he had a serviceable used original cable housing.

 

[Vicus]

Tomorrow I will get this part of the sheath into hot water and try again. Maybe the heat will widen the metal sleeve far enough to get the cable through.

To ask Don for another one is a very good idea.

The challenge will be to find the right one. My Stang was bound for California and comes with an emission control speed sensor between the two parts of the speedometer cable.

Cheers

Frank

 

[Vicus]

Update:

Today I tried to widen the sheath and put it into hot water.

It does not work!

Then I used my Dremel to cut the sleeve.

It worked but I can feel the dimples where the sleeve was pressed onto the sheath. The cable does not get through this limited spot.

I'm thinking about drilling a small hole into the square part of the cable and fix a thin wire and try to pull it through from the other side.

Helpful ideas will be cordially appreciated

I'm a little bit stuck! :huh:

Cheers

Frank

 

[73pony]

I'm not sure the wire trick will work. You will be adding mass to the cable that already doesn't fit through. If you're not stuck on your original cable my local autozone had one in stock when I broke the clip to attach it to the speedo.

 

[EBSTANG]

Update:

Today I tried to widen the sheath and put it into hot water.

It does not work!

Then I used my Dremel to cut the sleeve.

It worked but I can feel the dimples where the sleeve was pressed onto the sheath. The cable does not get through this limited spot.

I'm thinking about drilling a small hole into the square part of the cable and fix a thin wire and try to pull it through from the other side.

Helpful ideas will be cordially appreciated

I'm a little bit stuck! :huh:

Cheers

Frank

While you have the cable out, would you measure the cable at it's longest points for me?



Also, what, exactly, is the length of your factory cable from the trans end to the trans side of the ferrule crimped onto it?

In my opinion, the tube which houses the cable is just a vessel.

-Cut it into two pieces at the area of obstruction,

-slide an oversized (just oversized to slide it over) pipe/tube/hose over one cut end,

-pass your cable through, butt the two cut ends back together,

-slide the pipe/tube/hose over the cut ends (which will work as a splint) and then tape it with two opposote directional passes of quality electrical tape.

It is just a sheath for the cable to rotate within. It keeps the cable clean and lubricated, that's all it does. You will not damage it's ability to do it's job by doing this. If you do a nice job at it, it will look good and give you a reinforced area (like your original metal piece) to mount to the firewall. I will caution you that if you cut out the "dimpled" area you spoke of, leave that same amount of length (the length you cut out) between the ends under the "splint." I suspect that there is some type of relationship between the length of the of the cable (from the trans end to the trans side of the crimp on ferrule) to the length of the sheath. If you shorten the sheath, you will effectively make the length of the "cable" longer and that could cause binding. (this is why I'm asking you for your factory lengths at the beginning of my post.

Eric

 

[Vicus]

Update:

Today I tried to widen the sheath and put it into hot water.

It does not work!

Then I used my Dremel to cut the sleeve.

It worked but I can feel the dimples where the sleeve was pressed onto the sheath. The cable does not get through this limited spot.

I'm thinking about drilling a small hole into the square part of the cable and fix a thin wire and try to pull it through from the other side.

Helpful ideas will be cordially appreciated

I'm a little bit stuck! :huh:

Cheers

Frank

While you have the cable out, would you measure the cable at it's longest points for me?

Also, what, exactly, is the length of your factory cable from the trans end to the trans side of the ferrule crimped onto it?

In my opinion, the tube which houses the cable is just a vessel.

-Cut it into two pieces at the area of obstruction,

-slide an oversized (just oversized to slide it over) pipe/tube/hose over one cut end,

-pass your cable through, butt the two cut ends back together,

-slide the pipe/tube/hose over the cut ends (which will work as a splint) and then tape it with two opposote directional passes of quality electrical tape.

It is just a sheath for the cable to rotate within. It keeps the cable clean and lubricated, that's all it does. You will not damage it's ability to do it's job by doing this. If you do a nice job at it, it will look good and give you a reinforced area (like your original metal piece) to mount to the firewall. I will caution you that if you cut out the "dimpled" area you spoke of, leave that same amount of length (the length you cut out) between the ends under the "splint." I suspect that there is some type of relationship between the length of the of the cable (from the trans end to the trans side of the crimp on ferrule) to the length of the sheath. If you shorten the sheath, you will effectively make the length of the "cable" longer and that could cause binding. (this is why I'm asking you for your factory lengths at the beginning of my post.

Eric

Success! I've got it!

Cable is back in the sheath! My hot-air gun and patience helped to solve the problem. I heated up the limited spots - three at all - and pushed the cable in, millimeter by millimeter. I fixed the cable with my vise to get it stabilized and then 3 millimeters by 3 millimeters I could push it inside. It took me more than an hour to get these 50" inside.

After this I have checked all parts (upper and lower part of the speedo cable, sensor for emission control) with the drill machine after lubrication. No rattling anymore between 0 and 8000 revolutions. Looks good. Have checked the speedo too - without lubrication - works too!

I gave the trip recorder maintenance too; now it jumps back to zero without resistance.

At the end i pushed the sleeve at its original place where it protects the sheath against the clip at the fire wall.

@Eric, the total length of the cable is 50 inch, the total length of the sheath is 3/4 inch less than the total.

Anyway I asked Don from OMS for a NOS or used but working replacement, just for the possibility, that my maintenance will not last another 44 years.

Tomorrow my Stang will be completed and back on the streets. I will report whether I was able to eliminate the rattling which causes all these efforts.

Cheers

Frank

 

[Vicus]

today's report:

Today I have got everything reinstalled and I hit the road for the first drive. I detected an intense shivering needle and a gentle rattling, getting louder with every yard I'm going.

I headed back to my garage.

Lying on my back, my right hand up behind the dash, I could imaging my fault. The emission control sensor was real hot. I had a fifty-fifty-chance to install it the wrong way and I did it. :whistling:

I installed the sensor the other way round and hit the road the second time. The rattling is completely gone, and there is just a little shivering of the needle, 2-5 mph in total, up and down, in the range between 35 and 50 mph. Below this range it is stable, above too.

Thank you all for your help and support.

Nethertheless I hope to get this lower cable as a spare part, just for emergency reasons.

Cheers

Frank

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

Frank, You may want to check your spam account for my emails. I have left 4-5 emails, responding each time you send me one, but you don't seem to be getting them. I sent you a private email yesterday but haven't heard back, so not sure how else to get in touch with you, so thought I would try this. I have had your two cables that you asked for about 30 days ago, so if you get this, let me know.

today's report:

Today I have got everything reinstalled and I hit the road for the first drive. I detected an intense shivering needle and a gentle rattling, getting louder with every yard I'm going.

I headed back to my garage.

Lying on my back, my right hand up behind the dash, I could imaging my fault. The emission control sensor was real hot. I had a fifty-fifty-chance to install it the wrong way and I did it. :whistling:

I installed the sensor the other way round and hit the road the second time. The rattling is completely gone, and there is just a little shivering of the needle, 2-5 mph in total, up and down, in the range between 35 and 50 mph. Below this range it is stable, above too.

Thank you all for your help and support.

Nethertheless I hope to get this lower cable as a spare part, just for emergency reasons.

Cheers

Frank