starting issue

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billy351

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May 4, 2014
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Location
Canada
My Car
1971
mustang fastback 351c 4bbl m code factory ram air staggered rear shocks.


help! my 71 with a 351c 4bbl will not start after warming up. it start click of the key when cold but after driving for 10 minutes if i shut it off it wont re-start. it cranks but not hard enough to start it. it will start if i jump the battery, or if i leave it and let it cool down for a while.....where do i start looking. (battery is new)

 
Your timing is probably too far advanced. Check that first.

Also your starter could be going bad, I had one that was and it did the same thing. Once it got warmed up by the engine and headers it didn't want to turn over.

Welcome to the forum!

 
help! my 71 with a 351c 4bbl will not start after warming up. it start click of the key when cold but after driving for 10 minutes if i shut it off it wont re-start. it cranks but not hard enough to start it. it will start if i jump the battery, or if i leave it and let it cool down for a while.....where do i start looking. (battery is new)
Are you running headers? I had this problem until I changed out the starter with a high torque one. I would look at this first. Also there have been several posts here with a low cost high torque starter that everyone seems to be happy with. Hope this helps.

 
If the battery load-tests ok ( doesn't just show good voltage, but maintains when loaded), then I would first check the battery cables- are the connections clean and snug and the cables large enough and free of corrosion...

 
Have you checked battery cables? Are they to small? I had that issue with my 65 and it was weak cables not being able to get full power to the starter to crank a warm engine.

Keep in mind after your engine warms up the metal expands a bit and expanded pistons make take more oomph to turn over a hot engine than a cold one that the metal has relaxed a bit.

Sent from my SCH-S960L using Tapatalk

 
Most likely the starter. You can measure the current draw on your starter (some parts stores will measure it for you). Don't completely rule out the battery, wouldn't be the first new one that is bad.

 
thanks all good suggestions, i do have headers and the starter sits fairly close, but will try replacing all cable they do look worn. my pos on the battery is close to the rad support any chance its shorting out when running?

 
thanks all good suggestions, i do have headers and the starter sits fairly close, but will try replacing all cable they do look worn. my pos on the battery is close to the rad support any chance its shorting out when running?
No, if it shorted to the core support - there would be sparks and melted metal.

 
Most likely the starter. You can measure the current draw on your starter (some parts stores will measure it for you). Don't completely rule out the battery, wouldn't be the first new one that is bad.
+1 to that...happend to my mach 1...Starter was grounding out inside somewere...once it cooled it would fire up like a champ..Like nothing was wrong..Soon as i killed it as a gas station...It sometimes would not have enough power to crank over..or really struggle, i would have to wait about 15 min for it too cool off or more..then it would fire up like it had a million volts.

If you replace starter..I would replace the solenoid and all the wires going to the starter.

 
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Most likely the starter. You can measure the current draw on your starter (some parts stores will measure it for you). Don't completely rule out the battery, wouldn't be the first new one that is bad.
+1 to that...happend to my mach 1...Starter was grounding out inside somewere...once it cooled it would fire up like a champ..Like nothing was wrong..Soon as i killed it as a gas station...It sometimes would not have enough power to crank over..or really struggle, i would have to wait about 15 min for it too cool off or more..then it would fire up like it had a million volts.

If you replace starter..I would replace the solenoid and all the wires going to the starter.
When I replaced my starter the first time the symptoms came back after a while. The headers were so close that the heat was slowly destroying the starter. The smaller high torque starters provide more room around them for better cooling. The option is to wrap the starter with insulation if going with an OEM replacement.

 
what high torque starter would you suggest, also someone suggested that i replace it with a 2002 mustang 3.8 v6 starter, will it fit?

 
Most likely the starter. You can measure the current draw on your starter (some parts stores will measure it for you). Don't completely rule out the battery, wouldn't be the first new one that is bad.
+1 to that...happend to my mach 1...Starter was grounding out inside somewere...once it cooled it would fire up like a champ..Like nothing was wrong..Soon as i killed it as a gas station...It sometimes would not have enough power to crank over..or really struggle, i would have to wait about 15 min for it too cool off or more..then it would fire up like it had a million volts.

If you replace starter..I would replace the solenoid and all the wires going to the starter.
When I replaced my starter the first time the symptoms came back after a while. The headers were so close that the heat was slowly destroying the starter. The smaller high torque starters provide more room around them for better cooling. The option is to wrap the starter with insulation if going with an OEM replacement.
Ya..Mine was all stock thou at the time..No headers or anything on mine...The solenoid on mine would get hot too..From the cable runing to the starter.. Soon as the solenoind would cool it would start right up..i replaced it too..and still had the same issue cause the original starter worn out and internally grounding out.....But heat and all that stuff are great killers of power..lol

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-new-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx One i been thinkin about getting..i hear alot of good about it from other members..only 62ish bucks.

 
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