the dreaded heater core

[Mikes73]

I went ahead and ordered a gasket set for the heater box so I'll be ready when in the very near future we swap out heater cores. We have got to where we can pull the dash in well under an hour and pulling the passenger seat shouldn't take to long. Hopefully the swap goes smooth for you, I'm interested to hear how it turns out.

 

[GravY]

Great info.. Thanks Mark for posting the manual. My heater core blew over a year ago and have had the replacement sitting around since.

Any differences with convertibles? Wouldn't think so but..

What seals should be ordered? I might as well do those while I'm in there.

 

[Mikes73]

I ordered the complete gasket and seal kit from a place called macs auto parts, it was under 20 bucks. I've got a few other thing to sort out before diving into mine but we'll be doing it soon enough.

 

[GravY]

I ordered the complete gasket and seal kit from a place called macs auto parts, it was under 20 bucks. I've got a few other thing to sort out before diving into mine but we'll be doing it soon enough.

Thanks Mike. Bookmarked the gasket set, going to look over that site some more.. Never heard of them.

:up:

 

[OLE PONY]

I ordered the complete gasket and seal kit from a place called macs auto parts, it was under 20 bucks. I've got a few other thing to sort out before diving into mine but we'll be doing it soon enough.

I noticed that Ohio Mustang has them also, but both Mac's and Ohio Mustang state for A/C cars. Do the non-A/C need a seal kit too? I still have not replaced my heater core yet, but it is sitting in a box on the shelf.

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=3082

 

[Mikes73]

I ordered the complete gasket and seal kit from a place called macs auto parts, it was under 20 bucks. I've got a few other thing to sort out before diving into mine but we'll be doing it soon enough.

Thanks Mike. Bookmarked the gasket set, going to look over that site some more.. Never heard of them.

:up:

No problem. I use Mac's as my back up parts supplier when CJ pony parts or Ohio mustang doesn't have what I need. They ship very fast but I don't like to pay for shipping so I only really use them for emergencies

 

[Manu Mach1]

Mark,

I'm working now to remove this f...... heater core, no AC. It's a pain in the ass.

Do you have the manual for non AC car?

Thanks.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I hope I won't have to do this again. But finally the heater box is out and at the moment I don't want to think about do the reverse operation.

Heater core was leaking as I supposed.

I found some piece of a magazine around the heater core.

As this box is out, what should I check before put everything back together?













Four nuts need to be removed from the firewall.

 

[Mikes73]

Alright good job, your gaining on it!

 

[Manu Mach1]

Thanks Mike, always good to receive flowers.

To put it back again, is there a special trick to do this by an easier way?

I was thinking to remove the carpet and what I put under to get more room...

 

[Mikes73]

My suggestion would be find a small skinny person with mechanical ability to help put it back together, luckily for me I have my son to help on mine when the time comes.

 

[73StangCoupe]

Thanks Mike, always good to receive flowers.

To put it back again, is there a special trick to do this by an easier way?

I was thinking to remove the carpet and what I put under to get more room...

Manu,

When I did mine I removed EVERYTHING, I even unbolted the right side of the dash and let it hang for better access. I took lots of pictures and used a diagram for the heater/a.c. control vacumn lines. Just take your time, one step at a time and you'll get it done. I think it took me 2 or 3 months to finish the entire job. Wouldn't want to do that again.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[The General]

Hello, I have an non AC vert. I had to remove the carpet as it was soaked, I also unbolted the dash so it would "slide " and removed the kick panel for more clearance. Its rough but your half way there. Recommend replacing the blower motor since it's behind the box. I cleaned heater box inside and out and made my own gaskets as I could not find any non ac versions.

 

[Manu Mach1]

My suggestion would be find a small skinny person with mechanical ability to help put it back together, luckily for me I have my son to help on mine when the time comes.

I was skinny when I was younger

At home, I have girls, almost 11 and 7, but they are not very interested about mecanic

And my wife too...:-/

Thanks Mike, always good to receive flowers.

To put it back again, is there a special trick to do this by an easier way?

I was thinking to remove the carpet and what I put under to get more room...

Manu,

When I did mine I removed EVERYTHING, I even unbolted the right side of the dash and let it hang for better access. I took lots of pictures and used a diagram for the heater/a.c. control vacumn lines. Just take your time, one step at a time and you'll get it done. I think it took me 2 or 3 months to finish the entire job. Wouldn't want to do that again.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Two or three months???

Spring time is here, I would like to do that as quick as possible. Anyway, AC cars looks more difficult to do, it's really not a fair game

Hello, I have an non AC vert. I had to remove the carpet as it was soaked, I also unbolted the dash so it would "slide " and removed the kick panel for more clearance. Its rough but your half way there. Recommend replacing the blower motor since it's behind the box. I cleaned heater box inside and out and made my own gaskets as I could not find any non ac versions.

I try to remove the dash, removed 6 screws + 2 on the top, I tried and tried, but I can't remove it by pulling it back.

I also disconnected a plastic piece under the dash, the one which send the flow to the windshield, 3 nuts.

So yes I will remove the carpet, better clearence. About the motor, it doesn't make any noise, so I leave it. Maybe I should change it, but cost a fortune only for the shipping + tax.

Thanks all.

I will update my job as soon as I can continue, hope next week end.

 

[JimNiki]

I'd dismantle the motor also.. It wasn't very complex at all. Put new grease in there and it's good for years.

It was a ******* job so I didn't want to do it twice. I had the aircon box...

 

[Manu Mach1]

Some update about the heater box, it's in!!! I definitly recommand to remove the carpet to get more clearence, was more easy than expected. I'm so happy, since month I was thinking about this job, and it's done.



I just made a ********, I didn't plugged the heater core while installing the heater box, hope nothing went inside.

Tomorrow I connect the hoses (bypassed till now).

I'M VERY HAPPY TODAY

 

[73StangCoupe]

Great job Manu... it is a good feeling when you finish a job and it works. You'll remember that every time you get in your car.

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[Manu Mach1]

oh yes, but at least, if I had to do it again, at the end it's not so painfull as it is.

Well, hope the new heater core will survive years like it should be.

 

[MechEng]

Took the Manual and made it into a single PDF for anyone looking at doing this.

Part 36-42 Mustang and Cougar Heater-Air Conditioning System.pdf

 

[JimBrown55]

Took the Manual and made it into a single PDF for anyone looking at doing this.

Thanks, really appreciate that MechEng, since I'm doing this on my '73 coupe with A/C.

Before I start this project, I want to be sure I really need to. I DON'T have water inside the car, but it leaks at the firewall, in the engine compartment. I removed the hoses in the engine compartment and inspected them, and they "look" fine, and I installed a loop at the valve by the water pump to stop the leak.....for now.

I'm assuming the leak is close enough to being outside the cabin that all the water leaks there, rather than inside. That seems unlikely luck for the carpet, but mechanically, it doesn't make much sense to me. A leak anywhere at the inlet/outlet area of the core "should" show up inside as well as outside, but not on mine. (it's the inboard pipe that's leaking) I'll know why after I take it apart when I have to.

I guess for now, I'll go ahead and put in some temporary new hoses, and see if I still get the leak outside, but I imagine it will still leak, and will probably just be extra work before I start on removing the box. Any thoughts?