M manyo Well-known member Joined Oct 21, 2013 Messages 109 Reaction score 3 Location Washinton Twp, MI USA My Car 71 Mach 1 Nov 23, 2013 #2 Trying to remove stubborn torque converter nuts so that I can pull motor, any suggestions? Thank u in advance.
Trying to remove stubborn torque converter nuts so that I can pull motor, any suggestions? Thank u in advance.
M MotoArts Well-known member Joined May 30, 2011 Messages 937 Reaction score 6 Location Pittsburgh, PA My Car '71 Sportsroof '90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop (sold after 20 years) '66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA Nov 23, 2013 #3 Do NOT use an open end wrench! A 6 point socket with a LONG bar is best. A 12 point is not enough gripping area. Slow steady even pressure on the nut will help keep tool from slipping.
Do NOT use an open end wrench! A 6 point socket with a LONG bar is best. A 12 point is not enough gripping area. Slow steady even pressure on the nut will help keep tool from slipping.
H hyena429 Well-known member 7173 Mustang Supporter Member Joined Apr 16, 2011 Messages 3,502 Reaction score 10 Location wa My Car 1973 mach 1 Nov 23, 2013 #4 Do NOT use an open end wrench! A 6 point socket with a LONG bar is best. A 12 point is not enough gripping area. Slow steady even pressure on the nut will help keep tool from slipping. Click to expand... +1 to that.... I used a air hammer to knock mine loose a little..Then i hit mine with a long bar and a 6 point socket.
Do NOT use an open end wrench! A 6 point socket with a LONG bar is best. A 12 point is not enough gripping area. Slow steady even pressure on the nut will help keep tool from slipping. Click to expand... +1 to that.... I used a air hammer to knock mine loose a little..Then i hit mine with a long bar and a 6 point socket.
M marks73 Well-known member 7173 Mustang Supporter Member Joined Jul 19, 2011 Messages 4,829 Reaction score 22 Location Pittsburgh, PA My Car 1973 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed 1973 Chevelle 454 SS 2005 Magnum RT 2008 Colorado Nov 23, 2013 #5 Tap the six point on solid with a hammer and flat punch. If you have already rounded your edges, go to a metric socket and do the same thing. Make sure it takes some effort to get it on if that's the case.
Tap the six point on solid with a hammer and flat punch. If you have already rounded your edges, go to a metric socket and do the same thing. Make sure it takes some effort to get it on if that's the case.
M manyo Well-known member Joined Oct 21, 2013 Messages 109 Reaction score 3 Location Washinton Twp, MI USA My Car 71 Mach 1 Nov 25, 2013 #6 Six point socket did it! thanks guys
M Mesozoic Well-known member Joined Mar 30, 2011 Messages 415 Reaction score 6 Location Tucson, AZ My Car 1971 Mustang fastback restomod. Caged, stiffened, lowered, on 17" wheels with 4 wheel disc brakes and Bilstein dampers. PST polygraphite suspension kit w/Mustangs Plus springs. Custom SEFI-EDIS8 EEC-V injection based on '96 Crown Vic harness (CDAN4 strategy). 90mm induction, LMAF, 80mm Accufab TB, Edelbrock Victor intake, 42# injectors, fully ported RHS Pro Action 215 heads, long tube headers. '69 351W stroked to 408 using Scat 4340 crank, H-beam rods, SRP pistons. Comp Cams 284 Magnum hydraulic roller cam, Canton windage tray and main girdle w/blueprinted standard pressure oil pump. Serpentine conversion using late model 5.0 parts. Backed by a built 4R70W, FB Performance 3000 RPM triple-disc converter, custom alum driveshaft, stock Ford 9" w/3.50:1 billet LS. Nov 26, 2013 #7 A little PB Blaster wouldn't hurt either.
