? Try this again with fewer words.

[Paul M]

I was having problems with the turn signals, replaced the turn signal assy. and it worked for 2 whole months. All the lights work front and rear with the lights on. The hazards activate both front and rear. Turn the right turn signal on the front right works with no rear signal light. Turn the left on the rear left works, no front signal. I can hear the flashers on all processes. The bulbs are all good, the sockets are all clean & the prongs are still spring loaded. The grounds have been cleaned and reinstalled. I personally think if I pulled apart this plastic signal attachment and monkey'd around with the tangs on the back of the switch assy, I could get this to work. Has anybody pried one of these switches apart to reposition the tangs that drag along the pins. Maybe one of the pins is seated down too far. I may have waited too long to return. From what I can check there's power to all the correct places. Only not with the signals on going to the harness. My 1st post may have sounded complicated since 1 brake light was thrown in. It now works. I guess the connection was loose. Has anybody disassembled one of the turn signal switches successfully? Will I be able to reassemble it & have it pivot for years?

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[midlife]

Since your 4-way flashers work everything well, that suggests that the bulbs and sockets are not the problem. Rather, the turn signal switch assembly when in normal mode isn't working correctly. One thing you can do is to put black electrical tape on the back side where the rivet heads are, as they may touch the chassis ground.
If that doesn't work, try another turn signal switch from another source if you can. These are not the most reliable devices around.

 

[Paul M]

`Thanks for the reply. 71 fast has an excellent diagram. I looked at the wires traced the orange w blue / I had no right rear signal and followed it with my probe. It led to the switch. Like 1 whole min since it's disassembled. If I gathered my thought process instead of getting worked up over it. It would have been easy to check with a probe alone not knowing the diagram. The guy who sold it to me responded, luckily, he's still willing to return it. He says they are reliable 3 bad in 100. I'm a lucky 3. My old harness before this generic one had the same failing signal problem except the other side. Out of curiosity I checked most of the wires on both switches. There's nothing wrong with the wires. It's the mechanical function. The pivot point where the cam cancelling unit is sandwiched together. The current stops there. They peened the pc that holds the shift handle through them. If I was to separate it, it wouldn't stay in the little fastener plate. I'll bet these can be fixed just w/a lil tweak'n I'm lucky I'm getting a new one.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Happy your getting it sorted out Paul, but If your switch supplier believes a 3 in 100 failure rate makes for a "Reliable" product I disagree with him!

 

[Paul M]

Happy your getting it sorted out Paul, but If your switch supplier believes a 3 in 100 failure rate makes for a "Reliable" product I disagree with him!

I just installed the new one he sent another quickly. Ye I'd prob. be better off with a new eom unit. Anyway 3 in 100 seems to be par for the parts I've been getting over the past few years. They really sold us out when they decided to hand over our American enginuity to China. They took advantage of us for lower wages then snuck the prices back up. I expect piss poor quality control & mass landfills. It's sad. they don't even take most of this back to remanufacture it, you just toss it in the trash. They lay to waste all of these useful materials they are always crying about. I'd definitely pay more for a quality American made product. ...the Japs don't buy the Chinese crap

 

[BUCKWHEAT]

Happy your getting it sorted out Paul, but If your switch supplier believes a 3 in 100 failure rate makes for a "Reliable" product I disagree with him!

and I used to work in a 6 sigma world....