Tune-Up and upgraded parts

[rutkak]

I'm pretty sure it's the original engine.

Is this distributor cap a better choice than the original MSD cap I selected?

MSD Ignition 5506 - MSD Street Fire Cap and Rotor Kits

They may be better, but I don't see how they can be that much better than the original Motorcraft/Autolite/FoMoCo. I'd compare prices and if you want to shell out the additional money then go for it. God knows I blow tons of money on my money pits...what's an extra $5-10?

I'd get the spark plugs locally (if you can) at Autozone, O'Reilly or Advance Auto. Same with the small stuff like anti-seize or dielectric grease. You be surprised the amount of stuff that they have (check on-line inventories), especially if they are a hub. I wouldn't order anything expensive from them though...but the most places make you suffer on shipping costs for small stuff (like MustangsUnlimited).

The list looks good but instead of the Loctite anti-seize I recommend getting the 8 oz jar of Motorcraft. I bought mine 5 years ago and it's still going strong. That stuff is awesome and I use it on just about every bolt (minus the obvious stuff that requires something else). The Loctite is probably the same thing though, just a much smaller size. I like the Motorcraft because it has a little brush.

Hell, since we're on fluids and stuff, I recommend getting some dielectric grease for all of your electrical connections. It REALLY helps keep off the corrosion. I use it frequently...especially once you have Grounding gremlins and you clean off EVERY last ground in your car. You want the connection to stay fresh and not rust/corrode up.

In addition to the timing light and vac gauge I recommended earlier, I also recommend a torque wrench. I don't know how I lived without one for 2-3 yrs to be honest. Torqueing to spec will be required as you continue to work on your car. It's not required for your current project though.

Good luck man and continue hitting us up with questions.

KR

 

[aasukisuki]

I was just trying to get everything I needed from one source, to make sure I get everything. I don't have an auto parts store super close. The closest store to me is an O'Reilly Auto Parts. I stopped in there yesterday, and they had never even heard of Pertronix, so I'm a bit skeptical of what they might recommend.

I do have a torque wrench. I had to buy one when I was working on my wife's VW Cabriolet (non-engine work, obviously). I'll still have to pick up those timing light and vac gauge though. I bet you're right, and there are probably a ton of vacuum leaks on my car.

 

[matrixx]

What we were impying was that it's a bit easier to get the small things like spark plugs, distro cap and rotor at the parts store. The pertronix is what you will need to order online etc. If by chance you get the wrong item it's a bit easier to return to the parts store instead of waiting days to return and recieve something as simple as a spark plug.

 

[72HCODE]

Auto stores carry nothing anymore.

Years ago went to pep boys, the carburetor section has basically nothing but a few junk edelbrock intakes for Chevys, some exhaust wrap kits then endless hipo ignition wire garbage in various colors. I found an original accel coil buried on a shelf and grab it.

Just then one of the young kids approached me and asked if I needed help I asked him where the distributor points were , he takes me to the tools section *face palm*

I walk to the parts dept. spend 15 minutes explaining to the child behind the counter what I need. Tells me has no idea what points are and the computer said they don't carry it. He then asks me if I needed parts for a Honda civic.

I shopped online from then on.

 

[matrixx]

Wow that's crazy, maybe its just my area but my advance and AutoZone usually have most parts in stock. Maybe its because of the demographic in my area they adjust their inventory. Its all old muscle cars and old jacked up mud boggin trucks in the parking lots haha. I was in there the other day and there was 3 sets of cable covers for the Windsor engines. Nothing I would buy but thought it was cool they still keep the old stuff on the shelves.

 

[rutkak]

I'll agree with Matrixx and 72HCode in that I'm also in the deepish South where classic carb'ed cars are more the norm than back when I worked in NY or grew up in Chicago.

I'm from a fairly decent sized city and have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance and Pep Boys within 10 mins from me. I also have the Hub for these same stores 20 mins from me. I'll check the on-line inventories before I head out and they do have SOME of the typical items. I've found that the HUB stores carry older items but they usually only have 1 or 2 in the inventory. I've bought quite a few small 289/302 parts, alternator, a water pump, thermostat, carb gaskets and some odds and ends. I don't disagree that they don't carry most of the stuff we need and I spend plenty at CJPonyParts, Carbsunlimited and Summit but if I'm going to get some Duplicolor Paint, POR-15, grease, wire, plugs, and some of the small I'll go local. Of course I have to step over the rice-burner parts to get what I want...but they may have it.

 

[aasukisuki]

Wish me luck!

 

[aasukisuki]

Update:

I replaced all of the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air cleaner, and installed the new Pertronix coil and ignition. I was shocked when the car started up on the first try!

I took it around the neighborhood (unfortunately the weather isn't that great today) and noticed that it feels like it has more power, and runs smoother. However, it does still 'choke' for a split second if I floor it from a stand still. Also, if you stand at the back of the car, and listen to the exhaust notes, it's pretty smooth, but I do still hear an occasional skip in the sound. Hopefully that description makes sense.

I still need to change the oil and filter (I forgot I lent my jack stands to my younger brother), and add some transmission fluid, but overall I'd consider this to be a success!

On the issue of Vacuum leaks, I'm convinced there are a ton. I noticed a few hoses that just need to be replaced, and even found 2 or 3 hoses and lines that aren't connected to anything. One even had a screw stuck in the end!

Anyway, thanks for all of your help guys. It was actually pretty fun to get in there and replace all of this stuff.

 

[matrixx]

Congrats, its always nice to bump it once and hear it fire right up. The screw in the hose is probably to block off a vacuum line. The lines that are not connected to anything, start it up and put your finger over the end of the hose and feel for suction if there is than either find out what they go to or plug them.

 

[rutkak]

Update:

I replaced all of the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air cleaner, and installed the new Pertronix coil and ignition. I was shocked when the car started up on the first try!

I took it around the neighborhood (unfortunately the weather isn't that great today) and noticed that it feels like it has more power, and runs smoother. However, it does still 'choke' for a split second if I floor it from a stand still. Also, if you stand at the back of the car, and listen to the exhaust notes, it's pretty smooth, but I do still hear an occasional skip in the sound. Hopefully that description makes sense.

I still need to change the oil and filter (I forgot I lent my jack stands to my younger brother), and add some transmission fluid, but overall I'd consider this to be a success!

On the issue of Vacuum leaks, I'm convinced there are a ton. I noticed a few hoses that just need to be replaced, and even found 2 or 3 hoses and lines that aren't connected to anything. One even had a screw stuck in the end!

Anyway, thanks for all of your help guys. It was actually pretty fun to get in there and replace all of this stuff.

Right on & congrats! Like Matrixx said, it's not uncommon to plug the manifold vac tree with a hose and bolt/screw. They usually work but your local parts store probably carries the assorted pack of colored plastic plugs. I use them in lieu of the hose/bolt combo. In fact, I found one of my pesky vac leaks was caused by the hose bolt.

Hesitation on the carb could be a few things especially if you haven't tuned your carb. The occasional skip in the sound sounds like a classic vac leak. I'd definitely attack that next. Here's what should be connected via hoses (guys jump in if I missed anything)

1). Transmission: Small hose under car to metal tube that routes to engine and then from that tube a small hose to your vac tree on your manifold.

2). PCV: On your passenger valve cover the PCV should go to the carb spacer underneath your carb. Note that PCV operates by vacuum so you'll always have airflow from your passenger side valve cover but a lose hose will cause too much.

3). Power Brakes (if equipped): Hose from large round power brake thing on the driver's side to vac tree

4). Not sure about A/C.

5). Distributor vac canister to carb on passenger side. This is optional and shouldn't cause vac leaks. It only activated at higher RPMs and controls your advance.

Other places that will cause vac leaks:

1). Lose Carb: to include manifold to spacer gasket and spacer to carb gasket. Replace both gaskets (no sealant) and tighten that sucker down good. A warped carb will also give you issues

2). Intake Manifold. Yeah, I just did this today on my 289 and it's not quick and it's not fun. You'll notice oil in the back and/or front of your intake. It's not hard, but it takes awhile.

Follow what the guys here said and use some starting fluid to find the leaks and you'll be good to go.


Oh yeah, hey man...take some pics of your engine and post them here. That should help us help you out.

 

[matrixx]

Also depends how stock his car is. Could be a bunch of vac lines the facotry air cleaner, egr, ect. Like rutkak said, Try and post up pics of your engine bay. Many here are able to point out correct or incorrect situations just from a picture.

I most definatly would get all the vacuum lines connected first before tuning the carb (usually last thing you want to do).

 

[wwhite72]

Hold on there. The pertronix II module and coil match but i believe you will need to address the "pink wire" issue with the pertronix II? anybody else recall if that one needs the 12v constant ?

 

[aasukisuki]

Hold on there. The pertronix II module and coil match but i believe you will need to address the "pink wire" issue with the pertronix II? anybody else recall if that one needs the 12v constant ?

It looks like you may be on to something. I didn't realize there was an issue here, so I did a search for the "pink wire" issue you mentioned, and found a thread on here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-anyone-with-pertronix-igniter-2?page=3

The car definitely starts and runs (seemingly better than it did before), but I want to make sure I've installed this correctly. Since I installed a flame thrower coil, I would want to run a bypass to the coil right, and then the Pertronix and Distributor would pull that from the coil? Would I just cap the old wire that was previously running to the coil? What's the recommended way to bypass the pink wire? Someone on another forum mentioned that you could just run a wire straight from the battery, but that sounds like a sloppy solution.

 

[wwhite72]

first you would want to read the pertronix instructions with the parts and then determine if you have the wiring correct. If you need to make a change there are LOTS of posts here by other members who have done this install. Dont run it until you have checked, coils are not cheap.

 

[rutkak]

If your car started you should be fine. Pertronix GENERALLY won't start with less than 12V...example being if your battery is pretty much dead. When I installed mine my "ignition on" wire was at 12V and I tested it with a multimeter before installing. I wouldn't sweat it though...I don't think you can damage anything by pushing less than 12V to it.

Here's what I have wired to the coil:

(-) side: Black wire from Dizzy & Tach (optional)

(+) side: Red Wire from Dizzy and IGN ON signal from wiring harness

I split the IGN ON from the original wire to my tach and to the coil. I didn't have a pink wire but again, just turn the key (don't start the car) and test the voltage. If it's 6 volts then find another source from the wire bundle under your hood or and run a wire from somewhere under the dash to the coil.

KR

 

[aasukisuki]

first you would want to read the pertronix instructions with the parts and then determine if you have the wiring correct. If you need to make a change there are LOTS of posts here by other members who have done this install. Dont run it until you have checked, coils are not cheap.

I wired it per the guide, however that was without knowing that there's a resistor inline.

If your car started you should be fine. Pertronix GENERALLY won't start with less than 12V...example being if your battery is pretty much dead. When I installed mine my "ignition on" wire was at 12V and I tested it with a multimeter before installing. I wouldn't sweat it though...I don't think you can damage anything by pushing less than 12V to it.

Here's what I have wired to the coil:

(-) side: Black wire from Dizzy & Tach (optional)

(+) side: Red Wire from Dizzy and IGN ON signal from wiring harness

I split the IGN ON from the original wire to my tach and to the coil. I didn't have a pink wire but again, just turn the key (don't start the car) and test the voltage. If it's 6 volts then find another source from the wire bundle under your hood or and run a wire from somewhere under the dash to the coil.

KR

I'll have to try this. I read that the pink wire is located in the dash, and that it only affects the signal to the coil when the car is running, not when you just have the ignition on. So when you just turn the car on, you'll get 12V, but when the car's running, it drops down to 6V (and you need an oscillator to verify). This all seemed like people repeating information that they had read or heard elsewhere... like a game of telephone.

 

[rutkak]

Hmmmm. Interesting. I'm not sure how a wire will drop resistance at a certain phase. I'm a novice at this, but I'm pretty sure the wire is either 12 or 6 volts. I'm confident though that Pertronix needs around 12 to start though so if you were pushing 6V then I doubt she'd start. I've heard a lot of talk about a pink wire, but I don't have one. Let me caveat that with I have a coupe and ended up with a pretty robust wiring harness. I have extra wires and plugs for days for all kinds of stuff my car didn't come equipped with. Compare that to my 1970 model and I was fished for LIGHTS ON and a 12V source. Thank god for a multimeter.

KR