Unknown plug, who can help?

[eddyw]

Hi,

Unknown connection in the vicinity of the radio slot.

Thanks,

Eddy

 

[midlife]

That's the radio power and lamp plug. Both wires are white/pink.

 

[eddyw]

Ooh, I have a radio what was coming with the car but its a later model Ford radio and have the power connected on the auxiliary power supply connector (yellow three jump).

The Mustang project comes slowly to life (one man job, start date March 2012)

For now a "PARK" light on loan ... to fill the gap.

THANKS to midlife and other members,

Eddy

That's the radio power and lamp plug. Both wires are white/pink.

 

[marks73]

Like your choice of steering wheel! Mine is supposed to be here Monday.

 

[eddyw]

I'm down to "ZERO"...

I connect the battery cables(with a fuse of 7 Amp between), the first time lights go on(key on acc.)

-middle gauges;

-front

-rear

-map light(only by on position)

-dash foot lights L/R+buzzer(out when door switches pressed in L+R)

-also the horn, NO pressure on the sw. switch(until I disconnect the horns and switch in the steering wheel)

-NO dashboard lights(I use LED and think I switch the + and - in the print circuit board)

And than only the 7 Amp fuse blow immediately(in the dash fuse block none), I try it again and nothing goes anymore only the 7 Amp fuse blow immediately.

Is there something wrong with the dash wiring cable?

:huh:

 

[midlife]

I don't understand "connect the battery cables (with a fuse of 7 amps between)". Is there an in-line 7 amp fuse between the battery and main power going to the underdash harness? If so, typically more than 7 amps is used when the key is in ACC or RUN.

If you are talking about the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box, that controls the courtesy lights: doorjamb, underdash courtesy lights, glove box, accessory lights not part of the dash lamp fuse system, etc. This typically blows due to shorts at the door jamb and/or shorts to the chassis.

 

[eddyw]

Maybe I'm stupid but... for security

I use a extra fuse (7 Amp) between the + battery cable and + battery lead pole.

Is the 7 Amp fuse to low, must I try a higher Amp fuse (10-15 or 20 Amp)

Eddy

I don't understand "connect the battery cables (with a fuse of 7 amps between)". Is there an in-line 7 amp fuse between the battery and main power going to the underdash harness? If so, typically more than 7 amps is used when the key is in ACC or RUN.

If you are talking about the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box, that controls the courtesy lights: doorjamb, underdash courtesy lights, glove box, accessory lights not part of the dash lamp fuse system, etc. This typically blows due to shorts at the door jamb and/or shorts to the chassis.

I try a higher Amp fuse (10 and 15 Amp)nothing happens on the car only the extra fuse blow (all fuses in the car stay good).

The extra fuse blow also when the ignition key is out the lock.

I'm desperate.

Eddy

 

[midlife]

OK, so you're pulling more than 7 amps with the key on (ACC or RUN)? Nothing unusual about that.

What happens when you remove the 7 amp fuse entirely and try to run on the fuse block?

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hi Eddy,

Sorry I can't help. But for information just I blew a fuse 2 or 3 weeks ago straight after I changed my steering wheel, a short cut came probably cause by the new horn button. [/u]

 

[eddyw]

First problem:

New steering wheel from M.U.

The connectors hit bolt rings when turning the steering wheel.

Print board is NOT glued in the middle.

See photo's

+1 for Manu64

I've sent an email to this company, I'am looking forward for a solution.

New steering wheel with hub and black horn button + extra alum. / Chrome horn button.

 

[marks73]

OK now I'm worried. Is this the same as yours?

http://restorationpartssource.com/store/product68574.html

 

[eddyw]

Yep, just another supplier (S.D.=most of all made in China or Taiwan)

OK now I'm worried. Is this the same as yours?

http://restorationpartssource.com/store/product68574.html

 

[marks73]

I'll be sure to look at it real close when it gets here. Thanks Eddy

 

[Boss1Ray]

:goodpost:

Great thread. Lots of good info and things to consider about aftermarket steering wheels.

Ray

 

[Manu Mach1]

First problem:

New steering wheel from M.U.

The connectors hit bolt rings when turning the steering wheel.

Print board is NOT glued in the middle.

See photo's

+1 for Manu64

I've sent an email to this company, I'am looking forward for a solution.

New steering wheel with hub and black horn button + extra alum. / Chrome horn button.

Exactly what happend to me, with a "Grant" steering wheel, happy to help you

 

[eddyw]

I get a new free replacement from M.U. only I must pay the shipping cost $50.

I buy it just more than a year ago and the warranty was just out the limit.

The first time build in was previous month.

They must understand that we let parts come together for a bigger order(cheaper cost for shipping & import) and sometimes a long waiting before some parts are in stock(6 to 7 months).

Eddy