Voltage too high

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Danno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
610
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3
Location
Mount Prospect Illinios
My Car
1972 Fastback, Sportsroof
Replaced my alt harness with one I got from MotorCity Mustang today. I checked and rechecked connections and after I was satisfied with the looks of everything I started the car and checked the voltage at the battery...17 + volts........yikes! Shut it off, checked static and it is the normal 12 + volts. Rapped on the vr just for kicks and tried again, still 17+ volts....any ideas?:s

 
Bad VR? Disconnect the VR, start it again and see what the voltage is.

Check your grounds at the VR and the alt.

Take the VR into the local auto parts to test it.

 
Bad VR? Disconnect the VR, start it again and see what the voltage is.

Check your grounds at the VR and the alt.

Take the VR into the local auto parts to test it.
Disconnected and started the car 12.6 volts, shut it off reconnected and re-started..............it started out at 13-14 then began creeping up until I shut it off at 16. I also noticed the vr plug was warm.....

 
Bad VR? Disconnect the VR, start it again and see what the voltage is.

Check your grounds at the VR and the alt.

Take the VR into the local auto parts to test it.
Disconnected and started the car 12.6 volts, shut it off reconnected and re-started..............it started out at 13-14 then began creeping up until I shut it off at 16. I also noticed the vr plug was warm.....
Bad VR, especially when voltage starts building, the VR isn't switching off the charge signal to the alternator.

 
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You only changed the harness? Did the VR work correctly with the old harness? Was the harness made by alloy metal products? If not id send it back.

 
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I've been corresponding with Danno all day, and came to the conclusion that either his VR is bad or is mis-wired.

 
You only changed the harness? Did the VR work correctly with the old harness? Was the harness made by alloy metal products? If not id send it back.
Never checked voltage before this. The harness is from MotorCity Mustang. But the way the PO had his homemade harness hooked up, it is very possible it has been bad for a while, and maybe fried the vr. I am going to recheck connections today..............Midlife will vouch for the butcher job the PO did on the taillight harness I sent to him.............



You only changed the harness? Did the VR work correctly with the old harness? Was the harness made by alloy metal products? If not id send it back.
Never checked voltage before this. The harness is from MotorCity Mustang. But the way the PO had his homemade harness hooked up, it is very possible it has been bad for a while, and maybe fried the vr. I am going to recheck connections today..............Midlife will vouch for the butcher job the PO did on the taillight harness I sent to him.............
 
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it depends on how dead the battery is also. as the battery charges to full the voltage will drop down.

usually on startup you get high voltage and when the engine warms up it drops to normal.

you could swap the VR and see what happens, could be a problem with the alternator also.

if somebody removed the battery connection with the car running on just the alternator that will cause a high voltage spike and damage the alternator. now that might of happened with the old cable you replaced if the car was running and somebody played around with it and the battery stopped charging with the car running the alternator could of got hit with a spike and now it puts out higher then usual voltage.

but now you are talking about changing a VR and see what happens, if the voltage is still high then swapping a alternator and see what happens.

I had to do both more then once, because i suspected the same issue you had with over charging high voltage.

I swapped 2 alternators and 5 VRs before i found out they made different VRs one for 45 amp and another for 65 amp. i was using the lower rated 45 amp units. i finally switched to a heavy duty 65 amp unit. what i then noticed was on startup the voltage was kind of high but then dropped and settled. also if i left the battery tender on the battery when the car sat then on startup the voltage would drop to normal faster..... after 8 years i stopped worrying about it. but the heavy duty VR did make a difference.

 
it depends on how dead the battery is also. as the battery charges to full the voltage will drop down.

usually on startup you get high voltage and when the engine warms up it drops to normal.

you could swap the VR and see what happens, could be a problem with the alternator also.

if somebody removed the battery connection with the car running on just the alternator that will cause a high voltage spike and damage the alternator. now that might of happened with the old cable you replaced if the car was running and somebody played around with it and the battery stopped charging with the car running the alternator could of got hit with a spike and now it puts out higher then usual voltage.

but now you are talking about changing a VR and see what happens, if the voltage is still high then swapping a alternator and see what happens.

I had to do both more then once, because i suspected the same issue you had with over charging high voltage.

I swapped 2 alternators and 5 VRs before i found out they made different VRs one for 45 amp and another for 65 amp. i was using the lower rated 45 amp units. i finally switched to a heavy duty 65 amp unit. what i then noticed was on startup the voltage was kind of high but then dropped and settled. also if i left the battery tender on the battery when the car sat then on startup the voltage would drop to normal faster..... after 8 years i stopped worrying about it. but the heavy duty VR did make a difference.
Like I said, I am going to check the connections from the plug to the alt to make sure the plug is wired right, then prolly get a new vr and try that, while I am at it I will bring the alt with me and have it checked. One side note, the battery is not the correct one for the car, it is way too big, it is a DURALAST 65-DLG, once again a "PO" creation. I called a battery place and they also told me it was wrong, too big for a '72 302. But 12 volts is 12 volts and I am assuming that wouldn't cause the charging problem, .....or would it?



it depends on how dead the battery is also. as the battery charges to full the voltage will drop down.

usually on startup you get high voltage and when the engine warms up it drops to normal.

you could swap the VR and see what happens, could be a problem with the alternator also.

if somebody removed the battery connection with the car running on just the alternator that will cause a high voltage spike and damage the alternator. now that might of happened with the old cable you replaced if the car was running and somebody played around with it and the battery stopped charging with the car running the alternator could of got hit with a spike and now it puts out higher then usual voltage.

but now you are talking about changing a VR and see what happens, if the voltage is still high then swapping a alternator and see what happens.

I had to do both more then once, because i suspected the same issue you had with over charging high voltage.

I swapped 2 alternators and 5 VRs before i found out they made different VRs one for 45 amp and another for 65 amp. i was using the lower rated 45 amp units. i finally switched to a heavy duty 65 amp unit. what i then noticed was on startup the voltage was kind of high but then dropped and settled. also if i left the battery tender on the battery when the car sat then on startup the voltage would drop to normal faster..... after 8 years i stopped worrying about it. but the heavy duty VR did make a difference.
Like I said, I am going to check the connections from the plug to the alt to make sure the plug is wired right, then prolly get a new vr and try that, while I am at it I will bring the alt with me and have it checked. One side note, the battery is not the correct one for the car, it is way too big, it is a DURALAST 65-DLG, once again a "PO" creation. I called a battery place and they also told me it was wrong, too big for a '72 302. But 12 volts is 12 volts and I am assuming that wouldn't cause the charging problem, .....or would it?
Well I just went out and started the car and now am reading 14 + steady............."PFM" I guess..........I will leave it alone for now and not fool with it, but will recheck it frequently until I am satisified it is ok.......now on to the next drama....the carpet installation..............and , yes, I intend on getting the correct battery.

 
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battery capacity being too large would just mean it takes longer to charge from being dead. the draw of amps would be the same, so once charged the system would keep it charged.

most people want larger batteries because you have more capacity to draw from and more cold cranking amps.

 
battery capacity being too large would just mean it takes longer to charge from being dead. the draw of amps would be the same, so once charged the system would keep it charged.

most people want larger batteries because you have more capacity to draw from and more cold cranking amps.

[/quote

This battery is physically too big, it doesn't fit the tray and is not secured, (by the PO). It is a group"65" and my car calls for a group"24".........
 
I've been corresponding with Danno all day, and came to the conclusion that either his VR is bad or is mis-wired.
Took the alternator and regulator to a reputable auto electrical shop. The alternator is good the vr was bad, I actually went to the guy's work bench test area and saw the readings. I figured I had the problem solved, came home, reconnected everything with the new vr. went to start the car and nothing, the car is dead, but battery is good. I get a dim dome light when I open the door, but turning the key to start or pulling the headlight switch puts the dome light out immediately. I thought that somehow I blew the fuseable link, but it looks like that wire powers the fuse box and I have that dim dome light. I am going to re examine everything, but I am at a loss for now. Battery voltage doesn't change when the key is rotated to start either.........it stays at 13.70 volts. At least the car ran with when the charging system was cooking............

 
I've been corresponding with Danno all day, and came to the conclusion that either his VR is bad or is mis-wired.
Took the alternator and regulator to a reputable auto electrical shop. The alternator is good the vr was bad, I actually went to the guy's work bench test area and saw the readings. I figured I had the problem solved, came home, reconnected everything with the new vr. went to start the car and nothing, the car is dead, but battery is good. I get a dim dome light when I open the door, but turning the key to start or pulling the headlight switch puts the dome light out immediately. I thought that somehow I blew the fuseable link, but it looks like that wire powers the fuse box and I have that dim dome light. I am going to re examine everything, but I am at a loss for now. Battery voltage doesn't change when the key is rotated to start either.........it stays at 13.70 volts. At least the car ran with when the charging system was cooking............
Update...."PO" strikes again...........no engine block ground ever installed. The ground was always through his homemade alternator harness. I am going to find where the block ground is supposed to go and install it in the correct place with the correct ground wire

I will ground it thru the alt ground for now as the car is not on the road yet.....



Bad battery cable , internal corrosion at a connection

Voltage but no amperage
Thanks,but I found that the PO never installed an engine block ground, he always only had it grounded through the alternator ground lug.

That will be my next mission, to install the correct ground wire in the correct place.........Thanks for your input...........

 
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