Went to a yard sale and picked up some vintage speed parts.

[cudak888]

For better or worse, it's almost all Chevy stuff, but I sure as hell had fun when this popped out of nowhere. A few of these bits were outside when I arrived at the sale - a few questions yielded the rest. Turns out the fellow raced IMSA GT from '77-87, and the parts have been mothballed ever since then.

Couldn't believe my eyes. Got all I could today and I'll probably be back for the crumbs later

-Kurt

 

[MotoArts]

What is that above the Quadrajet, a Predator carb? Not too many of those around, even when they were around.

 

[cudak888]

What is that above the Quadrajet, a Predator carb?

Sure is!

Even a 6AL box somewhere in this pile. The bags at the bottom have huge NOS roller cams in them, while there are at least three sets of Crower rockers in the mix.

-Kurt

 

[Boss1Ray]

Kurt - a true treasure hunter. Whether cars. parts or history!!!! You had to secretly be hoping for some cool Mopar or Ford stuff!!!

Congrats on your finds.

Ray

 

[cudak888]

Kurt - a true treasure hunter. Whether cars. parts or history!!!! You had to secretly be hoping for some cool Mopar or Ford stuff!!!

Congrats on your finds.

Ray

Never thought of it that way, Ray, but you're spot on. I can't resist the thrill of the hunt.

Of course, I also know that I can flip most of the Chevy-specific bits and convert it into my necessary Ford and Mopar parts quite easily. It's just not as fun as finding the Ford or Mopar parts just like "that."

-Kurt

 

[rcadd1ct]

I have a predator carb on my bench at the house.

Cool to see this kind of stuff

 

[cudak888]

A not-so-good photo of the Predator:

These are over-the-dealer-counter Koni shocks for a Camaro, I believe:

No shortage of Crower rockers - pretty sure all 1.5's:

Cams. Big, lopey, thumpin' cams:

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

I created a complete Flickr page documenting these parts. Not many pictures of this stuff out there:







I also went back today and picked these little buggers up.

Hurst Airheart brake calipers by cudak888, on Flickr

Vintage Wilwood Gold Anodized 6-Piston Brake Caliper by cudak888, on Flickr

Uh, maybe not so little.

That's a Hurst Airheart 02-1257 on the left. Seems to have been a popular caliper on the racing circut back in the day. I also paid $20 for it, which is not too far off from what they go for on eBay; they don't really appear to be popular at all.

The restored French Hemi 'Cuda and 'Cuda Trans-Am cars are said to have used these Airhearts - under 15" rims, no less. I checked the 15's on my Satellite, and I somehow doubt they'd clear. The racing rims probably have better clearance or offset.

On the right is a less-massive, but thoroughly and wonderfully NUTS early Wilwood 6-piston caliper; probably an early ancestor of the W6A. It seems to be unused and does not have the original pistons. Strangely enough, the internet has exactly ZERO information about this caliper online.

Vintage Wilwood Gold Anodized 6-Piston Brake Caliper by cudak888, on Flickr

Vintage Wilwood Gold Anodized 6-Piston Brake Caliper by cudak888, on Flickr

Vintage Wilwood Gold Anodized 6-Piston Brake Caliper by cudak888, on Flickr

And, for the heck of it, here's a comparison of the 4-piston Hurst Airheart against the single piston rear caliper on a Kia Sorento. And yes, the Airheart, loaded with old NOS pads on both sides, clears the entire Kia rotor AND dust shield.

This will probably be the first and last time in human history we will ever see an Airheart on a Sorento. And I won't shed a single tear about that.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Wilwood identified the gold caliper as a very early 1970's-80s Wilwood Grand National caliper. A variant continues to be made today. Any mount for one of those has to be custom built.

Picked up some other bits too and also scored a pair of really rusty but workable Vortec heads (no pictures yet). More or less the Chevy equivalent to Ford's GT40 heads for the 302.

-Kurt

 

[sicndhed]

Very cool find.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Kurt,

For any of the rusty stuff, rotors, heads and such get you a molasses tank going and just drop them in and wait a couple weeks and they will look like new iron. Won't take any grease, oil, chrome or paint off but you will be amazed how it works on rust. Just did a caliper the other day in mine was a spare for truck that I forgot to put up and got rusty now looks like new.

Mix one part cattle feed grade molasses with 9 parts water and put the parts in and just wait. Sure beats standing at a blast cabinet and looks better also.

Nothing hazardous or deadly in it so pets or kids won't grow horns.

 

[cudak888]

Kurt,

For any of the rusty stuff, rotors, heads and such get you a molasses tank going and just drop them in and wait a couple weeks and they will look like new iron. Won't take any grease, oil, chrome or paint off but you will be amazed how it works on rust. Just did a caliper the other day in mine was a spare for truck that I forgot to put up and got rusty now looks like new.

Mix one part cattle feed grade molasses with 9 parts water and put the parts in and just wait. Sure beats standing at a blast cabinet and looks better also.

Nothing hazardous or deadly in it so pets or kids won't grow horns.

Thanks for the tip, David. Ought to throw in a pair of upper control arms I bought for the Mopars (come to think of it, do you have any Mopar B/C/E LCA's kicking about?) as well.

Now getting anything that's "feed grade" in the middle of a big stinkin' city that has nothing...ought to be interesting.

No kids, no pets, but I don't need any Teenage Ninja Mutant Mosquitoes around here.

-Kurt

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Kurt,

For any of the rusty stuff, rotors, heads and such get you a molasses tank going and just drop them in and wait a couple weeks and they will look like new iron. Won't take any grease, oil, chrome or paint off but you will be amazed how it works on rust. Just did a caliper the other day in mine was a spare for truck that I forgot to put up and got rusty now looks like new.

Mix one part cattle feed grade molasses with 9 parts water and put the parts in and just wait. Sure beats standing at a blast cabinet and looks better also.

Nothing hazardous or deadly in it so pets or kids won't grow horns.

Thanks for the tip, David. Ought to throw in a pair of upper control arms I bought for the Mopars (come to think of it, do you have any Mopar B/C/E LCA's kicking about?) as well.

I have a couple twin snorkel air cleaners for Mopar somewhere in the barn. I have not noticed them when in there looking.

Mosquitoes won't grow in the molasses. I use one of the Brut heavy garbage cans has a snap on lid. Check online for someone that would have it. I am going to set up one of the 275 gal. IBC totes when garage is up so I can do fenders, deck lids & hoods.

I will keep eye out for the air cleaners did not have the bases just the tops with the snorkels seems like they had wrinkle paint on them.

Now getting anything that's "feed grade" in the middle of a big stinkin' city that has nothing...ought to be interesting.

No kids, no pets, but I don't need any Teenage Ninja Mutant Mosquitoes around here.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

I have a couple twin snorkel air cleaners for Mopar somewhere in the barn. I have not noticed them when in there looking.

Mosquitoes won't grow in the molasses. I use one of the Brut heavy garbage cans has a snap on lid. Check online for someone that would have it. I am going to set up one of the 275 gal. IBC totes when garage is up so I can do fenders, deck lids & hoods.

I will keep eye out for the air cleaners did not have the bases just the tops with the snorkels seems like they had wrinkle paint on them.

I found out the twin snorkel wouldn't fit. The un-silenced 340 air cleaner was a drop-on fit, and I'm sticking with it. If you have any other Mopar bits though, I'm all ears.

Oh, I have no problem with the molasses itself. Finding it is the problem.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

The heads are now dunked in a molasses dip. Tempted to cook up one more for my Satellite's upper control arms and a Chevy unicast rotor from the yard sale lot.

-Kurt

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The heads are now dunked in a molasses dip. Tempted to cook up one more for my Satellite's upper control arms and a Chevy unicast rotor from the yard sale lot.

-Kurt

You will be shocked at how it takes the rust off. It will not touch the grease or paint just rust. A couple weeks for something really rusty. Take out and rinse off with water and brush. If really bad put back in again. For heads and block a pressure washer is best to get into the water passages.

I will be taking a trailer hitch out tomorrow and it should look like new. I need a 73 it is a 72 but always have something in the tank. I put some 1950 Ford grill parts in last week. Going to eBay when out.

 

[cudak888]

The heads are now dunked in a molasses dip. Tempted to cook up one more for my Satellite's upper control arms and a Chevy unicast rotor from the yard sale lot.

-Kurt

You will be shocked at how it takes the rust off. It will not touch the grease or paint just rust. A couple weeks for something really rusty. Take out and rinse off with water and brush. If really bad put back in again. For heads and block a pressure washer is best to get into the water passages.

I will be taking a trailer hitch out tomorrow and it should look like new. I need a 73 it is a 72 but always have something in the tank. I put some 1950 Ford grill parts in last week. Going to eBay when out.

I saw some before/after shots on Google. Looks promising.

I only have the heads. Couldn't really complain at $20 each for a pair of Vortec heads, crappy factory steel valves and all. Anything will be an improvement. Got the pressure washer too.

Really excited about stuffing the Mopar parts in it though. Any negative effects on rubber, by any chance?

-Kurt

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The heads are now dunked in a molasses dip. Tempted to cook up one more for my Satellite's upper control arms and a Chevy unicast rotor from the yard sale lot.

-Kurt

You will be shocked at how it takes the rust off. It will not touch the grease or paint just rust. A couple weeks for something really rusty. Take out and rinse off with water and brush. If really bad put back in again. For heads and block a pressure washer is best to get into the water passages.

I will be taking a trailer hitch out tomorrow and it should look like new. I need a 73 it is a 72 but always have something in the tank. I put some 1950 Ford grill parts in last week. Going to eBay when out.

I saw some before/after shots on Google. Looks promising.

I only have the heads. Couldn't really complain at $20 each for a pair of Vortec heads, crappy factory steel valves and all. Anything will be an improvement. Got the pressure washer too.

Really excited about stuffing the Mopar parts in it though. Any negative effects on rubber, by any chance?

-Kurt

Can't say on the rubber never tried anything that I know of. There can be no oil or grease or nothing happens.