What stat do you run?

[73' mach 1]

I'm not sure what the factory stat temp is but if I'm changing it out is their a better temp to run with? It's a spring, summer and fall weekend driver so I'm not worried about winter cold.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

You should always run the hotter one like 185 deg.. You will get better gas mileage. Some people think they can just take it out and then the car usually runs hot. This is due to the water circulating too fast over and over and does not have enough time in the radiator to cool. When we built circle track racing engines we did not put a thermostat in but did put a washer with a certain size hole depending on the engine and track. I don't have a list of the sizes. They had thermostats stick closed and open causing issues of overheating.

If you have a cleveland engine be sure to use the thermostat with the hat on the end that changes the circulation in the block when open.

My two cents worth.

David

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I agree.

Engine temperatures are something people worry a little too much about. 220 degrees scares the crap out of some people-I will state that at 220 degrees an engine is in no danger and is likely performing close to its peak efficiency. When an engine is too cold, the energy of combustion is partially used to heat it up, a hot engine (to a point of course) makes more power.

 

[Looftie]

Unless you have a built engine that needs a cooler stat to help control detonation, my vote is for a 180-185ºF stat.

Here are a few that should work (some might be hard as heck to find though):

Temp

Brand Range (ºF) Part #

Stant 180 29468

Stant 192 29469

Stant 180 13468

Stant 192 13469

Gates 180 33128

Gates 192 33129

RobertShaw 180 333-180

RobertShaw 195 333-195

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A

Napa 180 197

Tridon 170 TT230-170

Dayco 180 DT66A

Make sure whichever one you buy has that copper hat on the bottom or you'll have issues. I wrecked my #8 exhaust valve seat (pushed it partway up into the water jacket) by accidentally running a 351W while street racing back in the day. If anyone sees one on my list that is wrong, please let me know so I can update my spreadsheet.

Regarding the brass restrictor ring, you could also remove your factory brass one and replace it with this:

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/waterrestrictplate.html

With that plate, you can run a standard 351W thermostat in a 351C. It is supposed to improve overall cooling as well. It is based on a trick that Pantera guys developed to block off the bypass section of the brass ring. I just ordered one and plan to try it out. Right now, I have a Robert Shaw (180, I think).

 

[Mister 4x4]

I have a warmed-up 351C-2V, and I'm running a Windsor 180 thermostat. I installed a thermostat restrictor plate under mine (replaced the factory "smaller hole" restrictor) from West Coast Classic Cougars... and since then with the 180 Windsor thermostat, the temp gauge hasn't gone over 1/3-ish (between the "O" & "R" in "NORMAL").

Definitely recommend it if you have a Cleveland and live in a warmer climate.

 

[Looftie]

I have a warmed-up 351C-2V, and I'm running a Windsor 180 thermostat. I installed a thermostat restrictor plate under mine (replaced the factory "smaller hole" restrictor) from West Coast Classic Cougars... and since then with the 180 Windsor thermostat, the temp gauge hasn't gone over 1/3-ish (between the "O" & "R" in "NORMAL").

Definitely recommend it if you have a Cleveland and live in a warmer climate.

Thanks for the info, Eric. I can't wait to try mine.

Are there any tricks to removing the factory brass ring or installing the aluminum one?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Well, I just used a hook dropped into the smaller hole, and popped the factory plate out (distorted it a bit, too). The new one went in using a larger socket and long 1/2" extension to tap it in - didn't take much... I'm sure you know how the sound changes when something fully seats.

After that, install the new 'stat as normal - the pinhole in the new plate will allow the air to burp out, as well as the bypass not opening back up ever again will make the engine take a little longer to warm up (or so I've been told, anyway). Small price to pay, considering where I live. rofl

 

[73' mach 1]

Man this is a great place for info! I'm aware of possible issues running too cool that why I was asking for the best direction here. You guys rock!

 

[jbojo]

I am using the 180* thermostat in my car and the needle gets to the T on Temp on the center gauge console. Sometimes I am thinking that its too cold. When I monitor the temp from my EFI handheld it says the system is seeing 182*. It ran this way with the outside temp at 105* this past summer. I have 1 fan coming on at 180 and the second one at 190. Thinking about going to 190 and 195 fan settings to see what happens if I run a little higher temp.

 

[Pastel Blue]

185 all day long for the past 37 years...

 

[Mesozoic]

Small block Ford engine family models run best closer to 200*F, so a Motorcraft 192*F thermostat is usually best. This is what is run in all late model EFI small block Fords, including 302 and 351s. I live in Arizona where the summer temperatures exceed 110*F and it's fine, even being leaned out during cruise with factory Ford EFI retrofitted.