where is the block number located?

[scgamecock]

Hey guys, my car is a 351 CJ from the factory. Where do I look on the block and heads to make sure that this is the actual correct engine?

Thanks

Wade

 

[Stanglover]

Hey guys, my car is a 351 CJ from the factory. Where do I look on the block and heads to make sure that this is the actual correct engine?

Thanks

Wade

Hey Wade. I recently was corrected in my incorrect belief that early 351C's did not have a VIN number. They do, but may be very faint to read. At the back of the block, just below the driver's side head, there is a flat area where the VIN was stamped. It will be the consecutive numbers Example: 1F 123456 (for a 71). I have a spare block that had a number starting with 5. This I was told correctly was from a (71)Cougar. The casting number and date code are located just above the starter, which you may need to remove to see the numbers. Yours may be D2AE-DA or CA if it's a 4 bolt main. Date code would be like 2A15, 1972 January 15th, but could be a 1 something depending on when the block was cast.

Heads are a bit more difficult as you have to remove the intake and use a mirror. The numbers are on the underside of the ports. The date code is easier and is between the valves. Heads number could be D1ZE-DA. The D1ZE is on one port and the DA on another. A pain in the a** for sure. Date code might be similar to the above but different on each head, not cast on the same day!!

Go to MustangTek.com where you can find most of the information I'm using here to understand your engine and other parts.

Good luck hope you find what you're looking for.

Geoff.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

On a cleveland that is a tricky one. The casting number is the same for 2-V and 4-V. The casting is the same just not machined for the 4 bolt mains. You will have to look inside the pan to do the final check. The casting number is on the R.H. side above the starter next to the pan rail, see picture.

Now to check if it is a numbers matching you need to go to the left rear of the engine just below the deck surface. The last part of your VIN # will be stamped into the block. If no numbers stamped it is a service block. If not the same numbers as in your VIN# then a donor block.

All Ford parts or castings have part numbers that give you the date and revision. Instead of trying to explain here is a good web site. http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html

You are new so you can also do a search of the site to find out if someone has already posted the information you need. I am sure the date codes have been gone over many times.

Ford is nothing like GM with codes. GM left the door open to counterfeit about anything you want. With Ford almost everything on the car has a part# and or date code. If you are doing a concourse restore if the car is not untouched it can get to be a big search to find the right parts.

You know about the door tag and dash tags. The transmission is also stamped auto or 4 speed. The rear only has a tag. Both inner fenders are stamped under the front fender just above the front springs. Pictures of the trans, dash and inner fender stamps.

Since you are in N.C. if your car came from out of state it has to be inspected by DOT to verify no tampering with VIN# or stolen.

There are some shifty people on eBay that do not really know the parts. There are differences between each year more between 72 & 73. Sheet metal, front and rear valances, tail light panels, trim, options you need to know your parts before you purchase. Fenders, bumpers front & rear, side trim, steering wheels, steering columns, lots of little things under the hood are different.

Even original owners do not always tell the truth about changes.

Lots to learn here.

David

 

[Stanglover]

On a cleveland that is a tricky one. The casting number is the same for 2-V and 4-V. The casting is the same just not machined for the 4 bolt mains. You will have to look inside the pan to do the final check. The casting number is on the R.H. side above the starter next to the pan rail, see picture.

Now to check if it is a numbers matching you need to go to the left rear of the engine just below the deck surface. The last part of your VIN # will be stamped into the block. If no numbers stamped it is a service block. If not the same numbers as in your VIN# then a donor block.

All Ford parts or castings have part numbers that give you the date and revision. Instead of trying to explain here is a good web site. http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html

You are new so you can also do a search of the site to find out if someone has already posted the information you need. I am sure the date codes have been gone over many times.

Ford is nothing like GM with codes. GM left the door open to counterfeit about anything you want. With Ford almost everything on the car has a part# and or date code. If you are doing a concourse restore if the car is not untouched it can get to be a big search to find the right parts.

You know about the door tag and dash tags. The transmission is also stamped auto or 4 speed. The rear only has a tag. Both inner fenders are stamped under the front fender just above the front springs. Pictures of the trans, dash and inner fender stamps.

Since you are in N.C. if your car came from out of state it has to be inspected by DOT to verify no tampering with VIN# or stolen.

There are some shifty people on eBay that do not really know the parts. There are differences between each year more between 72 & 73. Sheet metal, front and rear valances, tail light panels, trim, options you need to know your parts before you purchase. Fenders, bumpers front & rear, side trim, steering wheels, steering columns, lots of little things under the hood are different.

Even original owners do not always tell the truth about changes.

Lots to learn here.

David

Well explained David, Good pictures that speak a thousand words!!

Geoff.

 

[scgamecock]

Great info guys!

Thanks!!!!

 

[naa10104]

On a cleveland that is a tricky one. The casting number is the same for 2-V and 4-V. The casting is the same just not machined for the 4 bolt mains. You will have to look inside the pan to do the final check. The casting number is on the R.H. side above the starter next to the pan rail, see picture.

Now to check if it is a numbers matching you need to go to the left rear of the engine just below the deck surface. The last part of your VIN # will be stamped into the block. If no numbers stamped it is a service block. If not the same numbers as in your VIN# then a donor block.

All Ford parts or castings have part numbers that give you the date and revision. Instead of trying to explain here is a good web site. http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html

You are new so you can also do a search of the site to find out if someone has already posted the information you need. I am sure the date codes have been gone over many times.

Ford is nothing like GM with codes. GM left the door open to counterfeit about anything you want. With Ford almost everything on the car has a part# and or date code. If you are doing a concourse restore if the car is not untouched it can get to be a big search to find the right parts.

You know about the door tag and dash tags. The transmission is also stamped auto or 4 speed. The rear only has a tag. Both inner fenders are stamped under the front fender just above the front springs. Pictures of the trans, dash and inner fender stamps.

Since you are in N.C. if your car came from out of state it has to be inspected by DOT to verify no tampering with VIN# or stolen.

There are some shifty people on eBay that do not really know the parts. There are differences between each year more between 72 & 73. Sheet metal, front and rear valances, tail light panels, trim, options you need to know your parts before you purchase. Fenders, bumpers front & rear, side trim, steering wheels, steering columns, lots of little things under the hood are different.

Even original owners do not always tell the truth about changes.

Lots to learn here.

David

Question I have been trying to answer ... I have a 73 convertible with a 351 C 2v Auto. I have been told conflicting stories as to whether the motor is original to the car. the casting numbers on the block indicate that the block was cast 1 year before my car was "bucked" and assembled. the number on the block ... driver's side below the head starts with CAR and then a series of numbers that have no relation to my vin. Any suggestions as to the origin of the block ? Thanks

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

On a cleveland that is a tricky one. The casting number is the same for 2-V and 4-V. The casting is the same just not machined for the 4 bolt mains. You will have to look inside the pan to do the final check. The casting number is on the R.H. side above the starter next to the pan rail, see picture.

Now to check if it is a numbers matching you need to go to the left rear of the engine just below the deck surface. The last part of your VIN # will be stamped into the block. If no numbers stamped it is a service block. If not the same numbers as in your VIN# then a donor block.

All Ford parts or castings have part numbers that give you the date and revision. Instead of trying to explain here is a good web site. http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html

You are new so you can also do a search of the site to find out if someone has already posted the information you need. I am sure the date codes have been gone over many times.

Ford is nothing like GM with codes. GM left the door open to counterfeit about anything you want. With Ford almost everything on the car has a part# and or date code. If you are doing a concourse restore if the car is not untouched it can get to be a big search to find the right parts.

You know about the door tag and dash tags. The transmission is also stamped auto or 4 speed. The rear only has a tag. Both inner fenders are stamped under the front fender just above the front springs. Pictures of the trans, dash and inner fender stamps.

Since you are in N.C. if your car came from out of state it has to be inspected by DOT to verify no tampering with VIN# or stolen.

There are some shifty people on eBay that do not really know the parts. There are differences between each year more between 72 & 73. Sheet metal, front and rear valances, tail light panels, trim, options you need to know your parts before you purchase. Fenders, bumpers front & rear, side trim, steering wheels, steering columns, lots of little things under the hood are different.

Even original owners do not always tell the truth about changes.

Lots to learn here.

David

Question I have been trying to answer ... I have a 73 convertible with a 351 C 2v Auto. I have been told conflicting stories as to whether the motor is original to the car. the casting numbers on the block indicate that the block was cast 1 year before my car was "bucked" and assembled. the number on the block ... driver's side below the head starts with CAR and then a series of numbers that have no relation to my vin. Any suggestions as to the origin of the block ? Thanks

Sounds like you have a donor engine from another car. I went back and looked at the number I posted but cannot see what is in front of the number. We are having an ice storm here so not going to storage to look and get better picture. Have you pulled the valve covers and checked the dates there? If everything is a year before your original engine is long gone.

David