WTB - Harmonic balancer/dampener

[73vertproject]

Need to replace original harmonic balancer for 351C 2V, part number DOAE 6316A1.

Doc

 

[Tnfastbk]

Need to replace original harmonic balancer for 351C 2V, part number DOAE 6316A1.

Doc

Shipping will kill you unless you find one really close, but for me the cost of a new one was not bad compared to the destruction of a bad/used one. But I a put an SFI approved one on mine which was a little more

SFI approved means it's pass'ed cert to be race legal in all classes. When you get to X speed or ET, the rules says you have to have SFI cert parts like flexplate, damper, etc.

If it's going on a street car engine that runs slower than high 10's in the 1/4 mile, under 500 HP, and RPM will be kept under 7,000 then I see no need in an SFI cert damper

Check this out

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=harmonic+balancer&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=0

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks, Roy! My first very quick search produced hb's that cost $279 and more. Now that I know I can get it for $100 or less, that may be the direction I go. I'm only street runnin' at about 5K RPM or less.

Doc

 

[Tnfastbk]

Thanks, Roy! My first very quick search produced hb's that cost $279 and more. Now that I know I can get it for $100 or less, that may be the direction I go. I'm only street runnin' at about 5K RPM or less.

Doc

Yeah prices suck when you want to play hard

 

[mach71351c]

Doc have a couple of used ones. I will check their condition. Mike

 

[73vertproject]

That would be awesome, Mike. My original one has a bunch of cracks in the rubber ring, so if yours are in better condition, I'd be happy to take one off your hands for a few bucks plus the cost of shipping. Hoping that your has fewer cracks in the rubber ring than mine.

Doc

 

[OMS]

That would be awesome, Mike. My original one has a bunch of cracks in the rubber ring, so if yours are in better condition, I'd be happy to take one off your hands for a few bucks plus the cost of shipping. Hoping that your has fewer cracks in the rubber ring than mine.

Doc

Doc, get a new one

In addition to the cracked rubber, they tend to move so the timing marks can be way off.

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks for the help, everyone, and for the offer, Mike. I decided to take Don's advice and ordered a new one for less than $100. With all the time and money invested, it's worth a few dollars more to know that it won't slip on me and screw up the timing.

I'll let you know when I get it and finally get the valve lash adjusted.

Doc

 

[cobra3073]

I think that was the BEST approach, Doc as that will be one less thing that you should have to worry about relative to your build.

GREAT to see you are apparently making progress.

BT

 

[73vertproject]

I think that was the BEST approach, Doc as that will be one less thing that you should have to worry about relative to your build.

GREAT to see you are apparently making progress.

BT

Thanks, BT. Progress feels good. But the rumble of that Cleveland when it first starts up will feel even better.

 

[mach71351c]

Your welcome Doc. I checked today and the three I have the rubber is cracked. Mike

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks again, Mike. Something else may come up, as they always do.

Doc

 

[OMS]

" I'll let you know when I get it and finally get the valve lash adjusted."

Doc, did you go with a solid lifter cam ?

Don

 

[73vertproject]

" I'll let you know when I get it and finally get the valve lash adjusted."

Doc, did you go with a solid lifter cam ?

Don

Yep, went with the Comp Cams in my sig line - everything came as a set - cam, lifters, timing gear and chain.

Doc

 

[Mister 4x4]

Doc, I thought you went 'roller everything.'

That would explain why the kit numbers are different. I thought I had gone with the same cam you did (214/214 @ .500" lift or 274/274 @ .566" lift - whatever is the way that's supposed to be read). It's just that mine's full-roller... or maybe you have slightly different numbers.

I do know that I'll have to give you a rough time if get mine running first, considering you tore yours down before I did.

 

[73vertproject]

Doc, I thought you went 'roller everything.'

That would explain why the kit numbers are different. I thought I had gone with the same cam you did (214/214 @ .500" lift or 274/274 @ .566" lift - whatever is the way that's supposed to be read). It's just that mine's full-roller... or maybe you have slightly different numbers.

I do know that I'll have to give you a rough time if get mine running first, considering you tore yours down before I did.

No, Eric, I actually went with hydraulic lifters, not solid as I implied to Don, and either stamped or cast rockers (can't remember which). Looks like my cam is a bit more radical (218/224 @ .500" with a bit more lift, accordingly.

Bring it on, my friend. Once the HB arrives, there'll be no stoppin' 'til I hear the roar of the beast!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Can't wait for you to get it going again, Doc. Mine's nowhere close to running yet - engine's not even in yet, for that matter. But, I'm thinking sometime this spring, for sure!