Yukon Locker ford 9 28 spline

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83slimer

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Nova scotia Canada
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1973 sportsroof mustang
Anyone out there have any experience with the yukon limited slip for 9 inch 28 spline? I'm looking at locking my rear and am looking at all my options. Had a detroit in my jeep and found it very loud and clunky when turning corners , i'm thinking a limited slip might be better for my car.

https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=2081

Not bad price wise 500$ Cdn vs detroit 1k plus

 
If upgrading the differential, why not upgrade the axles at the same time? 31 spline axles are considerably stronger and the differential cost is the same whether you get a 31 spline or a 28 spline unit. Axles are well under 200.00 a set for quality parts

 
+1 on the axles. Going up to 31 splines is a reasonable thing to do.

Have you looked at torque biasing differentials like the Detroit trutrac or Quaife units? That Yukon unit looks nice, but any clutch type limited slip will wear out over time.

 
+1 on the axles. Going up to 31 splines is a reasonable thing to do.

Have you looked at torque biasing differentials like the Detroit trutrac or Quaife units? That Yukon unit looks nice, but any clutch type limited slip will wear out over time.
I have used this one in two different diffs and so far no issues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Ford-28-Spline-Posi-Unit-Trac-Lok-9-Inch-NEW-/262670843582?hash=item3d2866febe
Have the same 28 spline unit for about 5 years now with no issues. I do remember needing to grinding a little off inside the case to get some more clearance because the ring gear mounting flange is thicker. No big problem

 
+1 on the axles. Going up to 31 splines is a reasonable thing to do.

Have you looked at torque biasing differentials like the Detroit trutrac or Quaife units? That Yukon unit looks nice, but any clutch type limited slip will wear out over time.
I have used this one in two different diffs and so far no issues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Ford-28-Splinve-Posi-Unit-Trac-Lok-9-Inch-NEW-/262670843582?hash=item3d2866febe
Have the same 28 spline unit for about 5 years now with no issues. I do remember needing to grinding a little off inside the case to get some more clearance because the ring gear mounting flange is thicker. No big problem
Not a bad price for a locker 240us but after exchange duty and shipping close to 500 for that one too. I read the 9 inch rebuild thread and seen how he had to clearance the casing I would go 31 spline but on a budget at this point 240us again be 400 plus Canadian . Not sure what the 28 spline can take for hp but I shouldn't be over 400 , the 28 's should be capable of handling that?

 
400hp? If you have some sticky tires I'd imagine you could break a 28 spline axle. Depends on tires and how you drive. If it is budget driven and you stick with the 28 spline axles at least if you break one in a 9" it won't come out and destroy your fender well.

 
400hp? If you have some sticky tires I'd imagine you could break a 28 spline axle. Depends on tires and how you drive. If it is budget driven and you stick with the 28 spline axles at least if you break one in a 9" it won't come out and destroy your fender well.

Thats true, Dont plan on too much drag racing etc just want it posi for the occasional burn out. I have a buddy that might have a N case so I'll wait until I get that before I pull the trigger on all the parts.

 
I've been waiting for a buddy to get back to me with info on what he did to solve a bad 9' differential on his 73 Grand Torino with a 429.

He had taken the car to a transmission and drive train specialist who installed not one but four sets of Dana gears trying to get the whine out of it. Long story short, my friend got his money back. He then took it to another shop where they do nothing but rear ends.

The result was amazing to quote my friend Ron. They installed a True-Track carrier and 3:50 gears. The true-track system is designed to be much stronger and more precise and uses a worm gear system instead of clutch packs. It's called a "one piece carrier system" No oil additives are needed either. The shop only uses US made high quality bearings and seal and the True-Track is built in Michigan. He did not say what spline number he used, but I can find out and post later.

He gave an idea of cost in Canadian dollars, but likely more now with the drop in our dollar. Carrier was $750, Gear set was $350, Timken bearings and seals were $145. He didn't say what the cost to install it was. This solved his problem and it will solve yours if you want to spend that kind of dollar.

All the best with it,

Geoff.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've been waiting for a buddy to get back to me with info on what he did to solve a bad 9' differential on his 73 Grand Torino with a 429.

He had taken the car to a transmission and drive train specialist who installed not one but four sets of Dana gears trying to get the whine out of it. Long story short, my friend got his money back. He then took it to another shop where they do nothing but rear ends.

The result was amazing to quote my friend Ron. They installed a True-Track carrier and 3:50 gears. The true-track system is designed to be much stronger and more precise and uses a worm gear system instead of clutch packs. It's called a "one piece carrier system" No oil additives are needed either. The shop only uses US made high quality bearings and seal and the True-Track is built in Michigan. He did not say what spline number he used, but I can find out and post later.

He gave an idea of cost in Canadian dollars, but likely more now with the drop in our dollar. Carrier was $750, Gear set was $350, Timken bearings and seals were $145. He didn't say what the cost to install it was. This solved his problem and it will solve yours if you want to spend that kind of dollar.

All the best with it,

Geoff.
I figure it will be pricey either way i go, unless I find a good used unit somewhere here in canada. Maybe a foxbody 8.8 swap would be an alternative to get a limited slip all in one package.

 
To save money you could set up your own third member if you can get your hands on an inch pound dial type torque wrench, a press and a dial indicator. It isn't rocket science and a 9" is one of the easiest rear ends to set up.

 
To save money you could set up your own third member if you can get your hands on an inch pound dial type torque wrench, a press and a dial indicator. It isn't rocket science and a 9" is one of the easiest rear ends to set up.

Ya I have all the tools except the inch pound dial type, have a regular inch pound torque wrench but would need the dial one , and dial indicator for backlash etc. Might just give it a try Whats the worst that could happen ? I could learn some lessons in the process lol,

 
Honestly I have done it with a click type before. Just set it to the lower end of the preload spec and tighten the pinion in small increments until your inch pound clicks while turning the pinion. Then set the inch pound to the max value and try to turn it, as long as it doesn't click you are somewhere in the allowable torque range. It isn't as elegant as a dial type but it is a lot cheaper. The only catch is you really want the turning torque, not the break free torque. That can really only be done with a dial type torque wrench.

 

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