Fan motor speeds

My fan motor only works on high. The switch is good so that leave the resistor. I pick this up from NPD made by Scott Drake. Has anyone use this part before?

Also I can see the resister but am not sure I can reach it with out pulling the dash apart again. Any tips for installation.





John J

you can replace it very easy through the drivers side foot well. there are 2 hex head screws look for the red colored board on the side of the fan unit, there will be wire connectors on the tabs.

you may need to pop out the drivers seat(4 bolts) so you can lay inside the car, but it will be next to the throttle pedal in the foot well.

besides the resistor the fan switch is known to go bad or have issues with the connector on the switch.

make sure the connector on the back of the switch on the lower center dash on the left side of the climate control is firmly pushed in, you can pop it off and push it back on to clean the contacts. retest to see if that made a difference, that connector is a known problem, it vibrates off the switch and causes the fan to stop working, the brown wire(high current) is also known to melt the connector. as the fan brushes wear out the motor pulls more and more amps. before the fuse pops that connector gets hot enough to melt.

so double check that connector you can reach it also from the driver's side foot well you have to get your elbow up behind the panel but you can do it.

if that doesn't work, swap the resistor, if that again doesn't work then replace the switch.. i believe they make repops of the the switch, but you can find NOS switching around.

replacing the switch is tons of fun, you have to pull the radio plate and get access to the 4 bolts that hold the climate control in. there is a rubber vacuum umbilical on the back and connectors and a heater door control wire that have to get popped off. sometimes you have to pull the entire center cluster to get access to everything. the switch is bolted on the side of the climate control unit so all that just to replace one switch.

Timely thread - thank you. I noticed yesterday that it sounds like my fan motor is not making any sounds (or moving any air) at low and medium and only comes on at the high setting. Looks like I'll be getting up and under the dash.

here is a photo of a my old fan unit with the resistor and wiring so you know what to look for.



i recommend unbolting the driver's seat to get maximum access

here is a photo of a my old fan unit with the resistor and wiring so you know what to look for.



i recommend unbolting the driver's seat to get maximum access

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Thanks for that. Fortunately, (in this case at least) I'm short and can usually get into where I have to go although my back has started protesting!.

One clue that I might have a burnt connector at the switch like you did is that when I bought the car the previous owner mentioned that when he got the car the fan wasn't working and his mechanic replaced the 20 amp fuse and it then worked. Makes me wonder why that fuse went and suggests that maybe I should check that fuse box and make sure he actually replaced the fuse and didn't shove something else in there!

Looks like we are due for more snow tomorrow.

when the motor wears out the fuses start popping..

the reproduction fan duct motor is REALLY Bad i had one and returned it. the only 2 options i found 1) getting the original unit rebuilt. 2) replacing it with another unit from another car which might be less worn out.

i replaced mine from another car.

when the motor wears out the fuses start popping..

the reproduction fan duct motor is REALLY Bad i had one and returned it. the only 2 options i found 1) getting the original unit rebuilt. 2) replacing it with another unit from another car which might be less worn out.

i replaced mine from another car.

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There you have it. Mine might be getting to that state. I don't use it much but it has not blown a fuse in about 8 months since Ive owned the car. I better check and see just what fuse is in there.

Not sure how I will know if a fan from another car is less worn out than mine and you have me duly concerned about the repro units. Also, is getting this motor out about as much fun as removing the heater core?

I'll start by checking the fuses, then that plug in the back of the controls for a burnt out area. Then the resistor.

Changing the motor isn't super bad, but it is tight and you have to remove the drivers seat.

There are 4 bolts that secure it and 2 wires, the ground needs a long screw driver to get off and the positive is a connector to the resistor block.

It takes some time but with the bolts out the motor comes out pushing the accelerator pedal out of the way.

The reproduction motor causes excess electrical noise that interferes with the stock radio and the fan spins much slower and with less power then stock.

Changing the motor isn't super bad, but it is tight and you have to remove the drivers seat.

There are 4 bolts that secure it and 2 wires, the ground needs a long screw driver to get off and the positive is a connector to the resistor block.

It takes some time but with the bolts out the motor comes out pushing the accelerator pedal out of the way.

The reproduction motor causes excess electrical noise that interferes with the stock radio and the fan spins much slower and with less power then stock.

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I'll start slowly. First the resistor and check the connection at the unit itself. Also, I better check that fuse.

always take little steps , nothing like gutting a dash and then finding out you didn't need to

my connector to the switch was REALLY messed up and melted, i had to cut the brown wire back about 3" and solder a new wire and tab then section the connector to the switch because everything was melted. so i have a connector to my switch and a separate wire that i had to plug in separately to fix things. every dash harness i have seen that connector to the A/C switch is melted as well.

always take little steps , nothing like gutting a dash and then finding out you didn't need to

my connector to the switch was REALLY messed up and melted, i had to cut the brown wire back about 3" and solder a new wire and tab then section the connector to the switch because everything was melted. so i have a connector to my switch and a separate wire that i had to plug in separately to fix things. every dash harness i have seen that connector to the A/C switch is melted as well.

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I wont be shocked when I see that stuff melted. Hey, by the way. The Scott Drake site has three different part numbers for resistors for cars with A/C. I'll have to pull mine out and see what the connectors look like. Might run into another issue. My car Looks like it has factory air but...it is not on the Marti report and the PO indicated it was dealer installed at the time of purchase. I wonder if it has the correct resistor and what the difference in that part is between a/c and non a/c cars.