Steering wheel play. How can I lose it!

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Stanglover

Stanglover

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My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
My turn to ask advice.

Last summer, I needed to re-seal my Saginaw 800 V/R power steering box. That in itself was no big deal, lots of help on You-Tube. What I did see was that the sector shaft was pretty much shot, time for a replacement. I just got the box and pump back from a steering specialty shop nearby and put it back in yesterday. (it's actually warm here!!) Today, I fired it up, a, to bleed the system and b, to check out my new 3/8" fuel lines. Success on both counts, no leaks!!

Now while the sector shaft play has gone, I still have more free-play at the steering wheel than I hoped for. It ain't rack and pinion by a long shot, but I do need to reduce that play. There is some at the rag joint pins obviously, but where else could I be getting play? It is only about an inch and a half on the s/wheel, which obviously is very minimal at the bottom end. Any suggestions??

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

 
Maybe this info can help:
Click to expand...
Thanks for this very informative info. However, not my situation. I probably should have mentioned that all my steering joints are new, so I do know that is not the issue. It is just play in the s/wheel and column before it even moves the input shaft.

Thanks for posting.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you have a tilt column the u-joints in the shaft may be worn. You mentioned some play in the rag joint pins. The pins are a safety feature in case the rag joint fails. With a good rag joint there should be no discernable play there. If you have an aftermarket steering wheel make sure the wheel and hub are tight and there is no play in them. A fraction of an inch of play any place in the column or connections can translate to inches at the steering wheel rim.

 
Rag joint is about it. Put an new one on and not hard to find. Check you Help rack at parts store Dorman has one that I used. As stated the rag joint is there to take the hard connection out of steering but is about the only place for slop if you have replaced everything.
Click to expand...
David, to cover yours and Don's reply, I still missed some basic info on what my car has. Goes to show how important every detail is when asking for advice. I only have a stock steering column and factory s/wheel. There is a bit of a 'clunk' in the column at the top, I think, been there since I bought it. The rag joint is an original, looks okay, but that doesn't mean anything. I will buy a new one and try that. It is possible that the sector shaft may still need a bit of adjustment after it's 'run in' although it should have been set up when rebuilt.

It was bit of a disappointment to find more slop than I expected, although far better than it was. My 'thing' is corners. I learned to drive on roads that seldom had straight sections anywhere, (Pegleg will know what I mean!), so for that reason alone, I don't want to be dealing with s/wheel play. I wish someone would come up with a rack-and-pinion direct bolt in system for our cars without having to cut the frame cross member. Our years are woefully neglected.

Thanks guy for your input,

Geoff.

 
Find a helper and have them slowly turn the wheel to find where your play is. I had to have my wife help me with my Focus to find a tie rod that was loose, staring at the joint while slowly toggling the wheel back and forth you could see the stud and housing play.

Time to play detective!

 
Find a helper and have them slowly turn the wheel to find where your play is. I had to have my wife help me with my Focus to find a tie rod that was loose, staring at the joint while slowly toggling the wheel back and forth you could see the stud and housing play.

Time to play detective!
Click to expand...
You're right!. It's always hard to be in two places at the same time.

Thanks.

 
Rag joint is about it. Put an new one on and not hard to find. Check you Help rack at parts store Dorman has one that I used. As stated the rag joint is there to take the hard connection out of steering but is about the only place for slop if you have replaced everything.
Click to expand...
David, to cover yours and Don's reply, I still missed some basic info on what my car has. Goes to show how important every detail is when asking for advice. I only have a stock steering column and factory s/wheel. There is a bit of a 'clunk' in the column at the top, I think, been there since I bought it. The rag joint is an original, looks okay, but that doesn't mean anything. I will buy a new one and try that. It is possible that the sector shaft may still need a bit of adjustment after it's 'run in' although it should have been set up when rebuilt.

It was bit of a disappointment to find more slop than I expected, although far better than it was. My 'thing' is corners. I learned to drive on roads that seldom had straight sections anywhere, (Pegleg will know what I mean!), so for that reason alone, I don't want to be dealing with s/wheel play. I wish someone would come up with a rack-and-pinion direct bolt in system for our cars without having to cut the frame cross member. Our years are woefully neglected.

Thanks guy for your input,

Geoff.
Click to expand...
A "clunk at the top"' if I am understanding this correctly, could mean the roller bearing located at the top end of the column is worn and needs replacing. This would be a side to side vs up and down play at the top of the column.

 
Rag joint is about it. Put an new one on and not hard to find. Check you Help rack at parts store Dorman has one that I used. As stated the rag joint is there to take the hard connection out of steering but is about the only place for slop if you have replaced everything.
Click to expand...
David, to cover yours and Don's reply, I still missed some basic info on what my car has. Goes to show how important every detail is when asking for advice. I only have a stock steering column and factory s/wheel. There is a bit of a 'clunk' in the column at the top, I think, been there since I bought it. The rag joint is an original, looks okay, but that doesn't mean anything. I will buy a new one and try that. It is possible that the sector shaft may still need a bit of adjustment after it's 'run in' although it should have been set up when rebuilt.

It was bit of a disappointment to find more slop than I expected, although far better than it was. My 'thing' is corners. I learned to drive on roads that seldom had straight sections anywhere, (Pegleg will know what I mean!), so for that reason alone, I don't want to be dealing with s/wheel play. I wish someone would come up with a rack-and-pinion direct bolt in system for our cars without having to cut the frame cross member. Our years are woefully neglected.

Thanks guy for your input,

Geoff.
Click to expand...
A "clunk at the top"' if I am understanding this correctly, could mean the roller bearing located at the top end of the column is worn and needs replacing. This would be a side to side vs up and down play at the top of the column.
Click to expand...
Ken , you are probably correct about the bearing. Just something else to fix when I feel like it. It's not a priority right now and not causing the play that I do need to get rid of. I'm going to order a new coupler and try that first. The Lares 201 looks to be about the best and a good price from Rock Auto, but the shipping stinks! Still thinking about that.

Thanks for the input,

Geoff.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
A good alignment will remove more slop than you can imagine
Click to expand...
Already done Jeff, Everything up front is new just last summer. I will however, get the alignment checked as I had the pitman arm off. It should be back the same as, but???

I am going to replace the rag joint as the likely culprit. I like the look of the Lares 201 as on the Scott Drake one, the pins are too short. I'm in no rush, won't be drivin' season for 3 months yet, just taking advantage of a warm spell.

 
If you take the box off to do the rag joint you could double check the thrust bearing preload and the sector shaft adjustment. I know it should be right on since you just got it back from a shop but if you checked at least you would leave no stone unturned. Attached PDF shows what to do.

Peter

800 series box3.pdf

 

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  • 800 series box3.pdf
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If you take the box off to do the rag joint you could double check the thrust bearing preload and the sector shaft adjustment. I know it should be right on since you just got it back from a shop but if you checked at least you would leave no stone unturned. Attached PDF shows what to do.

Peter
Click to expand...
Now that's some good info to have on hand. Thanks for posting it.

I talked to the guy who did the job before I put the box in as I thought that there might be too much preload on thrust bearing, but he assured me it was correct and would ease off soon after use.

You make a good point though and well worth checking. I will also check the sector shaft adjustment, but after I have the new coupler in and see what that does first.

Awesome help there my friend, thanks,

Geoff.

 

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