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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project


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@Randy

Ahahaha, well, unlike US cars where you need search far away land, I've located some place in Germany with OE parts for lots less than via BMW/Mini channel over here (when I say lots less, I mean LOTS less), and have a primed + chromed bumper underway for 80 buxx. Been to my painter this week, got my green mixed for the 73 and the silver paint for the mini. The bumper should be here by Monday, so I should be able to spray it somewhere next week if weather permits. Then I'll need find time somehow to remove the old one and install it...

 

------------------------------------------

 

 

20% chances of rain said the weather app...

 

no-fender-today.jpg

 

I was just installed and ready to get to the next step on the fender... poof, the 20% came down :(

 

 

next-victim.jpg

 

As I can't go further on this baby, can't work on the 73 either. Went pick my next patient: The transmission shaft/ drive shaft. I've removed it a couple of weeks ago and needs to be done anyway. Just like many original parts on this car, it's all in its juice. Totally no play on both u-joints, aside the corrosion, it could be reused as is and there would be no problems. But I see its return on the car one day in another state :)

Started by spraying lots of penetrating oil and removing the lock clips. Two of them were not happy to leave their rusty grooves, so had to get them free by first ticking them so they'd turn a bit before get them out with pliers.

 

 

u-joints-removal-1.jpg

 

Then after a good quick clean up and again penetrating oil, the rear u-joint removal was next.

Often ignored in maintenance, these are in 99% of cases the reason why you get a "klunk", often from going front to back gear or if light, a droning sound and/or vibes when the car reaches a certain speed...

So for those with vibs and klunks, here's how it goes to remove them. If unlike mine your car got new one since 71, it should go even more easy.

At first sight, it looks like a puzzle: how the hell do you remove these??? The trick is, once the clips are out, to push from one side for say 0.5 inch/1.5 cm. Doing this in a big vice is super easy, but mine being too small and even partly broken (need order a new one yesterday), I've used a 19mm socket to push (fits the hole perfectly) and a larger one so the other side could go inside the socket. Once out, you can remove one of the covers/cups acting as bearings. Try keep these up while doing it. This give you enough play to remove the u-joint.

 

 

u-joints-removal-2.jpg

 

Then did the yoke side. Because mine were corroded and in there since 71. My "press" wasn't strong enough to get some movement. So had to use a big hammer to unseal them. Placed on hard surface, in my case blocks of iron, and level , it's all about give them that tick that will free them. No need to slam like an ogre (even if the hammer i've used looks like an ogre hammer), but its not made of crystal either. Just a good tick, and with the penetrating oil added before they should not resist. Both articulations needed a tick on mine. Removal was same as the above, pressed out with my sockets. Once they are free and there is oil, not much force is required.

 

I plan to replace the u-joints, but kept them as they'd only need a good clean and grease to be as new again in case I would not find the ones I need. For now, they went in a box...

 

prep-for-bath.jpg

 

The yoke, is in ok condition, but showing some corrosion on the shaft. As these go inside the trans and are in contact with seals, they have to be smooth as baby butts to the touch, so started by removing the raw rust with 80 grid, slowly and finished gradually up to 400. Then after a good clean and brushing, it went 15 minutes in de-rust bath, then soda bathed, and after good rinse, few secs of hydrochloric acid to etch the surface for plating. At this point the metal was pristine and ready to enter my zinc bath.

 

 

shaft-derust.jpg

 

While the yoke was enjoying a 3.5- 4 volts bath (the voltage I find giving me best results for zinc), went busy on the big shaft. Man that thing is big, Peterbilt sized!! Much bigger than my 73 351/fmx one. Aside red paint applied on both extremities, only a long blue stripes was found. For the rest, looks like Ford did not apply anything on it. If they did, it's gone long ago, and entire shaft was under a layer of rust, but not pitted as it was very greasy, probably so for years. It didn't took me long to get it to bare metal and I'll de-rust it tomorrow further in phosphoric acid for a durable removal before paint it. I'll have to spot weld one of the weight that got loose when I've wheel brushed it. Bad luck, but no biggy.

 

 

yoke-done.jpg

 

After +- 2 hours and many positions in bath to get it cover everywhere in a nice coat of zinc, wooled it and got myself a nice bling bling yoke! :)

Part of it will be painted, the rest dipped after that in trans oil.

 

and so ended this rainy Saturday for me... Hope to spray something tomorrow, but looks like chances are very very slim I can..

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Looks great! When I removed the surface rust from my shaft by soaking it in a long 4" PVC tube with Evaporust, I found all the original paint marks. I built a lathe like device with caster wheels so I could spin it to sand and paint it.  I see there was still red on the ends on yours. There should ha e been 3, 4 or 5 stripes in the middle to. These would match your cars buildsheet.

 

Drive-Shaft.jpg

 

Ford-C6-to-9-inch-Axel-Paint-Codes.jpg

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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@Randy, @mach71351c

Thank guys.

 

@NotAT5

Everyone likes a good yoke :)

 

@rackerm

Its funny, I actually remembered your very nice driveshaft and that's why I've added the few notes about the colours found. I've first degreased and inspected in search for these marks, for the orange in the middle (which looks pretty yellow to me), I've found a few bits in the middle, but not enough to even think it was part of a ring. Only red at extremities and a blue line going from front to rear. That's all I could detect.

Your driveshaft is for the elite upper original restoration class, I play in the much lower "try save the car from crusher" custom class! :)

So mine will be simply painted. For my 73, did some endless loop on it, like you see on planes propellers noses. Totally useless as nobody sees it it action, but I might do same stupid thing again on this shaft. Not decided yet. I like your metal finish, clear coat on the bare metal after fine sanding?

 

Btw, regarding evaporust and many other rust killers, they use as main ingredient phosphoric acid. You can buy this "fertiliser" in a much more concentrated form, I buy mine 75% in quarts for 10buxx vs the 10 to 25% max found into the expensive brands that I used to buy before. The plus vs the others is also that it goes way faster. I now routinely apply pure and dilute as I go, finishing with soda to balance ph, then water to be left with protective iron phosphate. And all used is collected into a bath that i reuse over and over. Very handy for all the smaller parts that can be immerged completely.

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------

 

fender-bondo.jpg

 

The afternoon started with applying thin layers of bondo after some sanding and degreasing that I couldn't apply yesterday.

I'll sand and spray some primer on this baby next week.

Today was about protecting the driveshaft.

 

 

derust-driveshaft.jpg

 

There was this thread last week, with a totally sandblasted car in Australia. On the left you can see we're far from Sydney weather over here: in one night inside, the driveshaft was already covered with a light layer of rust...

So gave that baby a phosphoric acid bath, cleaned up and derusted the groove that were full of thick rust that would take ages to get rid of letting the chemical do the work alone. On right side, the worst part with starting rust pits was totally rust free.

 

 

driveshaft-rust-free.jpg

 

Alternating both ends into the bath and massaging the middle, once the "good enough" point was reached, it went in yestersday's soda's bath. After a water rinse and air dried, the surface was clean left with the protective phosphate with its iridescent colours.

 

 

weight-back.jpg

 

Next was to set the weight that came off back onto the shaft. Drilled the spot welds and prepped both surfaces for a short but hopefully nice weld. In the middle, now that the surface was clean, its obvious the weight has not been spot welded properly, only one side was holding it, hence why it came off easy when the wheel brush came on it. On the right, both weld came so round and flat, I decided to not even touch them aside a little brushing.

 

 

driveshaft-epoxied.jpg

 

As the weather was still dry, despite the late hour, quickly thought of an holding construction to allow me to paint the shaft in one go and eventually be able to move the part quickly inside may the rain come back. Taped the ears inside and passed some tube and wood thru each sides.

Prepped some epoxy, and as my todo box had some epoxy candidates waiting for a while, painted them together. One of them needs a tad of bondo to cover some ancient damage done to the pot metal long ago. With bits of luck, I should be able to prime these as well next weekend.

 

Despite the bad weather, it's been a productive weekend after all.

 

To be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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@rackerm

Its funny, I actually remembered your very nice driveshaft and that's why I've added the few notes about the colours found. I've first degreased and inspected in search for these marks, for the orange in the middle (which looks pretty yellow to me), I've found a few bits in the middle, but not enough to even think it was part of a ring. Only red at extremities and a blue line going from front to rear. That's all I could detect.

Your driveshaft is for the elite upper original restoration class, I play in the much lower "try save the car from crusher" custom class! Smile

So mine will be simply painted. For my 73, did some endless loop on it, like you see on planes propellers noses. Totally useless as nobody sees it it action, but I might do same stupid thing again on this shaft. Not decided yet. I like your metal finish, clear coat on the bare metal after fine sanding?

 

Btw, regarding evaporust and many other rust killers, they use as main ingredient phosphoric acid. You can buy this "fertilizer" in a much more concentrated form, I buy mine 75% in quarts for 10buxx vs the 10 to 25% max found into the expensive brands that I used to buy before. The plus vs the others is also that it goes way faster. I now routinely apply pure and dilute as I go, finishing with soda to balance ph, then water to be left with a protective iron phosphate. And all used is collected into a bath that i reuse over and over. Very handy for all the smaller parts that can be immersed completely.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Hi Fabrice,

 

I thought at first the orange paint mark was yellow too, but when I compare it to the buildsheet color codes, it was identified there as "OR". The driveshaft color codes were one of the few areas on the buildsheet that was still readable. So I figured that orange being a secondary color, had just faded/washed out to the primary color of yellow. The same was true with the lavender which looked whiteish.

 

Thanks for the chemistry lesson!  I did not know that about Evaporust. I have been in awe of the refinishing work you have been doing on parts and have wanted to try it but I have not out of fear I would blow myself and burn down the house up in the process. Maybe someday I'll get up the nerve to attempt it as I finish up the 70 Mach I.

 

Regards,

RIch

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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Not replying to Rich aka @Rackerm now, kuz we had some PM exchange during past week: short story, we might see some of Rich bling bling stuffs very soon! ;)

 

------------------------------

 

Fantastic weather, but it was an "unpure" mustang weekend!

Had to work on the Mini's bumper and check the T-bird for the annual tech control..

 

unpure.jpg

 

@Randy, you wanted to see...

 

Most Saturday went into that stupid piece of plastic! Started bad too, bumper sticker said, comes primed, fine sand and degrease before apply. They only forgot to mention that degrease can't be done with MY degreaser. So had to sand more as the so called primer melted away creating an ugly surface to paint on.

Eventually managed to spray the silver and coat it. This morning added the chrome, which is another piece of plastic, more expensive than 2 new bumpers! :)

Now need find some time to install it, as you basically have to dismantel the entire rear of the car to do this! :(

 

 

rear-extensions.jpg

 

Finally I was able to work again on the 71 parts... Came back to the rear extensions epoxy primed last week. As they had some ancient dents, I started to hammer a bit now that the problem were more visible with the even epoxy and water. They look like hugely strong, but truth is, in between reinforcements behind, the pot metal isn't that thick, pressing them and helping with a hammer got their shape almost back to the original, tho 2 dents being on the reinforcement, still had to do some bondo magic. Very little. While at it, also handled the rear side and took care at freeing the rubber channels so the rubber seal will be able to do its work properly. Primed them on one side and alternating with the fender work, have them ready for a primer on the front side that I'll do may be tomorrow.

 

 

fender-dry-sanding.jpg

 

Under at hot sun, the entire afternoon went into sanding the fender. First with raw 80 using long straight guide a file, as I refuse to listen to the thick layer bondo demon and end up with "some" smooth shape. To get the fender in its shape back with a minimum of bondo was tedious. Alternating checks with my templates made before the welding so the hood aligns hopefully perfectly with it later on. Made few patches and redid some places and ended up with with a good enough surface to move to 200 dry.

 

 

fender-wet-sanding.jpg

 

After a good clean, it was time to let the water speak and fine tune with 600. Took another hour to get the surface with natural reflections everywhere. Air blowed and dried everything for the next step: filler primer.

Aside one or two spots above the light hole that will require extra primer thickness and be water sanded again, I think I should not be too far off a clean surface. As it was too late to spray, I guess I'll have to wait a bit to know for sure :)

 

One thing is sure; after 3 fenders done this year, just like my light brackets, I'll be done doing fenders for a while! Man they are big! :)

 

To be continued..

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Fantastic weather today. They say it might be the last time this year :(

back to chilly temp tomorrow, no time to waste!

 

fender-in-primer.jpg

 

Primed the fender in filler primer. Looks now much better than it was but still need some fine tuning bondo. I've sanded the hood line a tad too much, and the line edge on top isn't consistent on the whole line. Didn't see it while busy as the fender was having another angle. Will need work very slowly for that one. Another issue on the middle line, where there is still a tiny "s" in it (deep rusty dent was there)) that needs small correction. For the rest even, if very hard to see on these sunny picts, I need small tiny touches on 4 or 5 locations, a good fine sanding and I should be there. Fixing the hood line is what matters most...

 

 

scoops-primer.jpg

 

Because I need spray some grey/silver on lower part of both fenders, economically speaking, the more parts to paint at once the better. The scoops, already paint free and semi polished, were waiting for a while, so gave them a good soda bath and 800 fine water sanding, rinsed them and protected the studs, they are in good clean states, simply fear to crack the zamak trying remove them with double nuts. Turns out they were actually handy to hold the part in place.

 

 

driveshaft-extension.jpg

 

Water sanded the driveshaft epoxy, cleaned up again the hears and retaped.

As I need shoot some green, same as the scoops are to the grey, I've primed the extensions as they can be sprayed together when I'll spray some green.

 

Tried a new primer today, 2k and of very very fine grain. Never used such fine almost glossy primer before, and I have mixed feelings about it:

I love it and hate it at same time!

I hate it because I made no less than 4 runners on the shaft. It will take 2 minutes to fix them, so its no biggy but I wasn't really expecting it to be so fluid and not covering as primers usually do. Unlike top coat that is more difficult than base color/paint, It shine right away and its hard to judge when enough is enough (tho now I know :) ).

And I love it, because, its the first time I have such fine primer, allowing very precise spray, almost airbrush like on a 1.4 mm gun! I think the main reason it failed on the shaft was because I've sprayed using 1.4mm nozzle @2bars and routinely thinned it as the other primers I use. This one needs more testing, prolly using my 1mm gun and less thinner for sure.

I might know tomorrow how it let itself be sanded if weather permits, as I need correct again one of the extension. One is fine, the other still needs some work, as one edge where it was repaired has an "undefined" edge. Hard to see on the pict, but it needs more guts and tell the eyes it is there. It doesn't atm.

Also redid one of the wipers arm, as I've let it fall by accident ruining the top of it. I'll do this one when I'll spray black.

 

 

headers-cut.jpg

 

Finished the afternoon trying to remove my headers... heat did help clean the connections a bit, but still no movement, so as they now really must go out, I will have to cut lines. I think one on each side should work. Tho will retry heat with only one cut first. If someone has an idea other than this, let me know. They've been in penetrating oil and kept wet for weeks, hammered.. I don't think I have another choice here. Do I?

 

Heavy rain and thunder as I type, I wonder what I'll be able to do tomorrow...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Fantastic weather today. They say it might be the last time this year :(

back to chilly temp tomorrow, no time to waste!

 

fender-in-primer.jpg

 

Primed the fender in filler primer. Looks now much better than it was but still need some fine tuning bondo. I've sanded the hood line a tad too much, and the line edge on top isn't consistent on the whole line. Didn't see it while busy as the fender was having another angle. Will need work very slowly for that one. Another issue on the middle line, where there is still a tiny "s" in it (deep rusty dent was there)) that needs small correction. For the rest even, if very hard to see on these sunny picts, I need small tiny touches on 4 or 5 locations, a good fine sanding and I should be there. Fixing the hood line is what matters most...

 

 

scoops-primer.jpg

 

Because I need spray some grey/silver on lower part of both fenders, economically speaking, the more parts to paint at once the better. The scoops, already paint free and semi polished, were waiting for a while, so gave them a good soda bath and 800 fine water sanding, rinsed them and protected the studs, they are in good clean states, simply fear to crack the zamak trying remove them with double nuts. Turns out they were actually handy to hold the part in place.

 

 

driveshaft-extension.jpg

 

Water sanded the driveshaft epoxy, cleaned up again the hears and retaped.

As I need shoot some green, same as the scoops are to the grey, I've primed the extensions as they can be sprayed together when I'll spray some green.

 

Tried a new primer today, 2k and of very very fine grain. Never used such fine almost glossy primer before, and I have mixed feelings about it:

I love it and hate it at same time!

I hate it because I made no less than 4 runners on the shaft. It will take 2 minutes to fix them, so its no biggy but I wasn't really expecting it to be so fluid and not covering as primers usually do. Unlike top coat that is more difficult than base color/paint, It shine right away and its hard to judge when enough is enough (tho now I know :) ).

And I love it, because, its the first time I have such fine primer, allowing very precise spray, almost airbrush like on a 1.4 mm gun!  I think the main reason it failed on the shaft was because I've sprayed using 1.4mm nozzle @2bars and routinely thinned it as the other primers I use. This one needs more testing, prolly using my 1mm gun and less thinner for sure.

I might know tomorrow how it let itself be sanded if weather permits, as I need correct again one of the extension. One is fine, the other still needs some work, as one edge where it was repaired has an "undefined" edge. Hard to see on the pict, but it needs more guts and tell the eyes it is there. It doesn't atm.

Also redid one of the wipers arm, as I've let it fall by accident ruining the top of it. I'll do this one when I'll spray black.

 

 

headers-cut.jpg

 

Finished the afternoon trying to remove my headers... heat did help clean the connections a bit, but still no movement, so as they now really must go out, I will have to cut lines. I think one on each side should work. Tho will retry heat with only one cut first. If someone has an idea other than this, let me know. They've been in penetrating oil and kept wet for weeks, hammered.. I don't think I have another choice here. Do I?

 

Heavy rain and thunder as I type, I wonder what I'll be able to do tomorrow...

The master does his magic with so little to work with. You are surely an inspiration for others on the form to get the job done.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Fantastic weather today. They say it might be the last time this year :(

back to chilly temp tomorrow, no time to waste!

 

fender-in-primer.jpg

 

Primed the fender in filler primer. Looks now much better than it was but still need some fine tuning bondo. I've sanded the hood line a tad too much, and the line edge on top isn't consistent on the whole line. Didn't see it while busy as the fender was having another angle. Will need work very slowly for that one. Another issue on the middle line, where there is still a tiny "s" in it (deep rusty dent was there)) that needs small correction. For the rest even, if very hard to see on these sunny picts, I need small tiny touches on 4 or 5 locations, a good fine sanding and I should be there. Fixing the hood line is what matters most...

 

 

scoops-primer.jpg

 

Because I need spray some grey/silver on lower part of both fenders, economically speaking, the more parts to paint at once the better. The scoops, already paint free and semi polished, were waiting for a while, so gave them a good soda bath and 800 fine water sanding, rinsed them and protected the studs, they are in good clean states, simply fear to crack the zamak trying remove them with double nuts. Turns out they were actually handy to hold the part in place.

 

 

driveshaft-extension.jpg

 

Water sanded the driveshaft epoxy, cleaned up again the hears and retaped.

As I need shoot some green, same as the scoops are to the grey, I've primed the extensions as they can be sprayed together when I'll spray some green.

 

Tried a new primer today, 2k and of very very fine grain. Never used such fine almost glossy primer before, and I have mixed feelings about it:

I love it and hate it at same time!

I hate it because I made no less than 4 runners on the shaft. It will take 2 minutes to fix them, so its no biggy but I wasn't really expecting it to be so fluid and not covering as primers usually do. Unlike top coat that is more difficult than base color/paint, It shine right away and its hard to judge when enough is enough (tho now I know :) ).

And I love it, because, its the first time I have such fine primer, allowing very precise spray, almost airbrush like on a 1.4 mm gun!  I think the main reason it failed on the shaft was because I've sprayed using 1.4mm nozzle @2bars and routinely thinned it as the other primers I use. This one needs more testing, prolly using my 1mm gun and less thinner for sure.

I might know tomorrow how it let itself be sanded if weather permits, as I need correct again one of the extension. One is fine, the other still needs some work, as one edge where it was repaired has an "undefined" edge. Hard to see on the pict, but it needs more guts and tell the eyes it is there. It doesn't atm.

Also redid one of the wipers arm, as I've let it fall by accident ruining the top of it. I'll do this one when I'll spray black.

 

 

headers-cut.jpg

 

Finished the afternoon trying to remove my headers... heat did help clean the connections a bit, but still no movement, so as they now really must go out, I will have to cut lines. I think one on each side should work. Tho will retry heat with only one cut first. If someone has an idea other than this, let me know. They've been in penetrating oil and kept wet for weeks, hammered.. I don't think I have another choice here. Do I?

 

Heavy rain and thunder as I type, I wonder what I'll be able to do tomorrow...

The master does his magic with so little to work with. You are surely an inspiration for others on the form to get the job done.

 

 

My thoughts exactly. Wish I had the knowledge and patience he does

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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@newold, @David

You're too kind guys! Nothing special really, just trying to do ok work with what I know and can. I'm in no rush and enjoy working on my old Mustangs. What would be the point of spending time and money doing half work? Driving a classic car with nice paint and bling bling wheels isn't for me till what's underneath is not ok.

 

@NOT A T5

Actually now that you mention these again. I was mixing bondo on a tiny bit of rubber, and was bit tired of cleaning it every time. It was also bit too small.

Guess what I use now!? I tell you, these should be listed as must haves for any restoration! :)

 

----------------------------------------------

Thunder and rain till late last night. On the country map in weather app for today, there was this clear sunny big hole and I was in middle of it!

Yesss! :)

 

If you're a purist unicolour driveshaft lover, skip this post, kuz, I decided I would do today the same silly thing as I did on my 73 driveshaft!

I like it for being there and no one knows except me (and you now). Yes it's silly and useless but enjoyed doing it ! :)

 

 

run-black.jpg

 

Even if much cooler than yesterday, the sun was back and temp pretty ok for paint, so quickly fixed the runners from yesterday's new primer. Then prep few cc's of base black and sprayed it on my wiper arm and the shaft. Leaving the ends out. No metallic particles in there, so used my 1mm nozzle. It's economic and precise, especially for the wiper arm.

 

 

taping.jpg

 

Once dry, taped using fine tape. if you ever do similar work, do not use paper tape or any masking tape is isn't made for this, otherwise your paint will stick to the glue as its fresh and your work will be ruined. I like this tape so much, I use only this one for everything now. Prepped the yoke masks for the hears and the center. I keep the center paint free, just to see how pure zinc will look once coated. Something I haven't done yet, but thinking to do on some steering and suspension components...

 

 

grey-metallic.jpg

 

Then prepped few cc of metallic grey, this time using 1.4 nozzle and sprayed it the yoke and driveshaft.

 

 

mask-removal-silk.jpg

 

Then removed the masks before the paint gets too hard. Thanks to this super tape, it's protected with no leaks and all lines are sharp.

Prepped the semi gloss coat, called "silk", notice how milky it is. I've used it for my grille, headlights brackets and many more parts, it gives after couple of hours a very nice semi gloss result, I'd say on a matt to gloss on 1, its 0.6-0.7 gloss. The milky turns to transparent as it cures.

 

 

now-we-wait.jpg

 

Much easier to spray than the fine primer of yesterday, all went on my parts with no disaster. Here just sprayed on the picts, the glossiness will disappear gradually to end up as the "silk" semi gloss finish tomorrow.

As I have Moogs U-joints "super strength" ment for my car (I hope there are) currently above the ocean, I might be able to reassemble the driveshaft next week. You'll see by then, how different the surface looks once cured. It's no cheap coat for sure, but really worth every penny when you see how it suits the parts. I'm totally sold on that one.

 

 

splash-guard-2.jpg

 

And because I couldn't make any dust sanding my fender while all was drying, I've put some love into the driver side splash guard, full of crap and ancient anti stone.

The passenger side is already as new so needed do that one too.

One side was just a matter of soapy cleaning, the other was much more work. First removed the most I could, then applied twice paint remover on the thick tar or whatever hard bitumen that was applied all over it. For once I was happy to not have AirCraft as it would be too strong for the plastic. Mine being slow and mild, it did the expected and was able to remove 90% of it without much efforts.

I'll finish it next week, as the rain was coming back. Time to put everything inside and call it a day.

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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hey i love what you did with the driveshaft, i think the tricolour would have looked better ;)  all kudos to the master artisan at work.

 

Me - i'm just fumbling about at the lowest rung ;)

ha! That's actually a good idea. Did not even think about that... In fact I never use them. Too late for me to do it, so I guess I'll see how that looks soon on yours ! ;)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Great job on the barber's pole!

Lucky you won't see it when driving as it could make you dizzy

Great when you get good weather for painting and I much prefer to dry components in the sun

Raining heavily here and too wet to get under the car so not doing much

P1030238.jpg
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Great job on the barber's pole!

Lucky you won't see it when driving as it could make you dizzy

Yes this optical illusion is used on many things. Speaking of dizzy, when I was young, there were these "sexy" pencils with a lady printed on them. Inside, a printed tube and when you started write, it turned and showed...  "wink wink"  :)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Misery weather. Did not do much today, but hey, every bits done counts!

 

goodies-u-joints.jpg

 

Totally not planned, got some opportunity and I have the Holley Sniper for the 429 early.  It will wait in the box for a while.

Some details came with it, among them the new u-joints that I was needing today!

So created some kind of working space inside as it was pouring, and started install the yoke side...

 

 

driveshaft-done.jpg

 

Much more easy to work on a rusty dirty shaft for sure. Had to protect and take care not to damaged the paint. It's only when you take care that you realise how often you need to turn the shaft to install the joints! And usually its when your hands are full of grease! :)

With everything clean & nicely greased, all went into place smoothly. All moving as butter, finished by cleaning up all the extra that would attract dirt and packed it into what was the Mini chrome bumper packaging. Something useful on this car after all :)

Once that was done, I was able to mark my driveshaft as done! Even with its silly spiral marking, it looks  so much better than 2 weeks ago.

Very pleased!

 

splashguard.jpg

 

The rain stopped so went back outside and finished revive the splashguard that was full of unecessary stone protection. Doesn't have to be perfect, simply would hate to reassemble with a dirty piece. Both sides splashguards: done! :)

 

 

ram-air-plenum.jpg

 

Not planning do much on this one for now except clean it really well, as I don't know if I will actually use it. Not certain if all will fit with the sniper. I might need to make a new copy from my mould as on my 73 that fits the sniper directly... For now, the old dirty and ancient grease are gone.

Anyone running a sniper on a 429 with ram-air? Clearance Issues?

 

 

visitor.jpg

 

And then this little guy came out of nowhere telling me, I should work on the garden...

Not being able to spray anything, I've listened to him!

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Rain most of the night, sun came back and the weather app showed at least 2 or 3 hours before rain would come back.

No paint day, so as more bad days are coming, I've returned to the stubborn header as I can't removed the trans till its in my way..

 

 

headers-out.jpg

 

Tried hammer, oil for days, heated it... Today I've let speak the cutting disk!

As these headers are sold for gold and would be at my door for platinum costs, the plan is to fix whatever is to be fixed and let them coated. So cutted just a tad and tried to lift the outer tube metal vs flatten the inner one, more difficult to reshape.

By lack of movement freedom, It took really a while and being in a really not comfortable position, I was happy when I finally got some movement in one of the 2 tubes. With one gone, more space speeding up the process, the second one followed quickly.

Bellow on the pict, the reward of something like 3 hours work!! Man, on a lift this would be done in matter of minutes and that with a cup of tea in the other hand.

Sitting inside the engine bay trying to reach that $%^ trans cooler line nut and not be able to move the trans kus the exhaust line is in the way or the joys of getting some movement out of rusted dampers that were having overtightened rusty clamps. A entirely different game when you're crawling under the car, rusty sticky parts are a real pita.

Plus I hated them even more for reminding me I'm no longer 25! :)

 

 

trans-free.jpg

 

Now that the two major obstables were out, I've further disconnected the trans, and is now just resting on its support.

Placed back the pan, that was out for 20 years with few bolts so nothing gets damaged when on the floor. I can now think about removing it in coming weeks, as I want this baby be done this winter.

 

 

future-work.jpg

 

By looking at the misery, I know this C6 job is not gonna be just an overhaul inside. I might consider plate one or 2 parts on the outside too! :)

As I run out of rusty things in the front aside steering and suspensions that I'll do once inside (need keep it rolling), I started take a look at the back and under the car to see what I'll be doing soon. There too, lots of bubbles in perpective! Tho most that is corroded is mostly strong thick parts and I know I can get them pristine again as there's plenty meat on these.

 

For now, each and very bolts or nut I've seen been quickly brushed and recieved a rich amount of penetrating oil, to ease future removal somewhere this winter.

 

 

details.jpg

 

Haven't really found more bad news. There is a hole on driver side passenger seat floor, tho by the sound of it look like very local, and less than 2 inches away the screwdriver would not even bite the metal. From underneath looks like a patch will do, tho, I'll know for sure once I see both sides blank.

 

On both sides at the fenders, the bracket that holds the first bolts are gone, twisted to death. Is the bracket as on the quick drawing? If anyone has one fender out, could you please take a pict of this thingy and share it so I could make one the easy way? Thx by advance.

 

There was this thread this past week about a 71 429 offered at low price. Here's another way to check if its a 71 429CJ or SCJ. This little extra return line tube on the sending unit, it runs with the fuel line, then unlike the fuel line in 2 pieces, it goes up the springs and enters the engine bay together with the fuel line at the pump, with same grommet. If my friend Steve, aka @Secluff is right, this is a 71 only setup that was on both 429 CJ and SCJ.

As I got the engine in buckets and bags, I have no idea how or where this little tube connects. As I go EFI, I won't need it either. I'll keep the line for the unlikely event someone would need to make a copy.

 

 

headers-tubes-fit.jpg

 

Was just done with my gym under the car, the rain came back. As I need weld a bung for the EFI on the header, and

fix the cuts that I did today, I first gave the Hookers a good clean, after removing the rust at the connection, I've cleaned up and plated the extremities so they do not rust on me anytime soon and also because zinc being soft, this eases to turn the pieces metal on metal. Then I've let the hammer do hammering talks to restore the round shape. I'll buy or fab some stainless ring for this later on. For now I need clean the other header and one find a place to let them be re-coated... Wish I had a much bigger container and power supply to plate them before that.

 

It doesn't look much on the picts, but lots been done today, I know kuz I feel muscles I forgot I had :)

 

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Hello Fabrice.

 

I feel so spoiled. I see you fight to save a part most of us would trash. I understand the insane shipping and import taxes/fees you have to deal with on new parts.  The thought of having next day delivery on almost anything makes me feel guilty!

I sure all of us here feel as I do when I say your attention to detail and the amount of care and time you have put into even the smallest of bolts and fasteners is amazing.

 

Also, want to clarify the CJ/SCJ fuel system differences. The Quadrajet equipped 429CJ has a return line that runs from the third fitting on the fuel pump back to the fuel sender which is unique to the 71 429 CJ Mustang and Cougar. The 70-71 429 CJ Torinos ran the same fuel pump but a different sender. The Holly equipped SCJ ran the same tank sender as other 71-73 Mustangs. The fuel pump, unfortunately, is the same as the 69-70 Boss 429. Try buying one of those from Perkins inventory!!

I know this is something you already know, but please remember to throw NOTHING away that is unique to your 429 car as you convert to EFI.  Those types of parts are becoming more valuable than gold!

 

I am still looking for a couple of stray parts for you but I will let you know when I have them.  :)

 

 

.

Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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What's the purpose of this second fuel line?

It's a return line.

Here you can see the pump (that I do not have)

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/fuel_system.htm

 

@secluff. Don't worry, all the parts that I have but will not use/replace, like the original Rochester, the 3 tons heavy intake etc...

are kept preciously! In fact, I keep almost everything rare or not. The "almost" applies only to the parts that are common and beyond potential repair or useful to act as template/doc to build a new one from scratch.

I've made mistakes on the 73 when I was young that I regret. Learned since then that you do not toss anything! What looks as garbage today, may very well be something you wish you still had years later.

Like I recall 30 years ago, when this car was owned by my friend the day it received these new made in Taiwan bling bling cheapo chrome valves covers to replace the original aluminium ones that were cracked. Never thought at the time I would be able to repair them decades later. I didn't know I would own the car either but they would have been kept if we'd knew.

Now looking for a pair in any state for a human price...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Autumn weather whole week, but today was awesome!

 

separator.jpg

 

Mainly busy on making place into the garage attic so I can soon work properly work on my transmission inside.

Started by let the 73 run and install on it one of the candies that arrived after 3 month being under way. Found these asian made separators for my fuel lines, 12 euros for 5. Full aluminum and anodiized + SS screw. Much better than the temp plastic thingy I was using!

 

 

nobung.jpg

 

As I want todo at least one thing on the 71when its weekend, the next step was to weld a bung on the driver side header.

Open the Sniper boxes, and was bit disapointed. The sniper bought 1.5 years ago for the 73, came in a box with foam, cut to fit the unit.

Nicely printed and with a series of small items that may be handy like brackets, pump covers for Chevies etc..

Since then, one or two managers at Holley thought it would be much better to present the unit cheaply, protect it less and get rid of all the extra potentially handy hardware found in the very same kit bought a bit more than a year ago. One would think they'd reduce the price. no no. same price just less. The few extra screws, intake studs, nuts for the throtttle body, cable brackets were waaaay too expensive to be given away in a $1250 kit.

And the one thing that any robust install, source of many problems should have is a one cheap bung for the o2 sensor to weld. Nope.

Instead they do provide a more expensive stainless steel set to allow people with no welding machine to install the unit likely to leak soon or later.

Sometimes I have hard time to grasp the twisted minds of the products managers/sales dudes and their inconsistencies...

 

 

bung-install.jpg

 

Anyway, I knew I had to buy a $3 bung next to it and today it was time to weld it. Need be a minimum of 10 degrees. From the engine on stand and comparing on the 73 and the 71 trans, the bung needed be +-48 cm away from cyl 8 first header bolt where there is enough space under the car.

On the 73, I had to weld it behind the header, to prevent it recieves too much gas of just one cylinder. On this collector, much longer, it could stay on it. While on the pict the bung is up (for gravity facts) it's 20 deg from top center. A tad less than on the 73 to ease the addition of a custom bracket for the KD. Then drill my hole with this new bit, (love that super handy thing)

Unlike the exhaust of the 73, this Hooker was coated and underneath the coating a thick layer of tin or zinc was applied. So even after a good clean, the welding wasn't sounding allright. A light test did not show any leaks, but a pressure test did. So grinded and charged with more power for a second session. This time, all sounded well and with more power/wire added, made longer and higher welds. No more leaks.

Next stop for this one, sand blasted and coated.

The second need some welding & dents fixing. As it was late. I'll handle it another day.

 

 

serial-for-steve.jpg

 

This pict is for Mr 7173 SerialsGuru aka @secluff...

I will not use it, but while opening boxes, found the fuel pump that was on the 429. It doesn't feel heavy and I saw no Ford markings on it. I don't think this is the original one. Is it?

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Not too bad today, cloudy but good enough to come back to the fender eating up all my space into the garage.

 

fender-sanding.jpg

 

As last spray revealed some problems here and there, and especially showed a wrong line to be align nicely with the hood. Redid some regions with tiny highs and lows, remains of the ancients dents and weldings.

Most of the afternoon went into getting this long piece of metal baby butt smooth.

 

Time to spray this new 2k primer, this time with no thinner on 1.4 nozzle. Very handy for its semi gloss property to shine enough to reveal any problems that would be obvious on the metallic dark green that will be applied...

 

 

fender-primed.jpg

 

Unbeleivable but true. I was half busy spraying it: started to rain. not big drops, just tiny little ones for like 30 secs!! Enough to ruin the softness of the surface. Whole day dry and cloudy not a drup, and after that same. If i'd started just one minute later, there would have been no problems. Gggrrrr summer is really over!

 

Oh well, there is still a too soft angle at the line edge visible when the fender is set on its side like on the pict. Not that the car would be often seen on its side, but I need fix this and also noticed 2 tiny little details that will need extra sanding else where, so no biggy as I would have needed re-spray anyway. Plus, a dark shiny green would not pardon the lazyness :)

All with all, pretty happy to see the work starts to pay off. Its really now hard to imagine this fender was full of dents, rust and a piece welded to it 3 weeks ago.

 

 

header-corrections.jpg

 

Then came back to the other header, removed last year. Aside not really round connections that need to be adressed, will go to an exhaust shop for this, found also some weirdnesses in shape near the head exhaust ports. I recall these were a hell to install. Some dents here and there were probably done for clearance issue, but there are design/fabrication mistakes in them. As the bolts cannot be aligned after the planes are pushed against the heads, you could not insert 2 bolts straight, they had to be first inserted. but because you need turn the tube to align to the heads and also support the collector at the same time. No wonder it was a pain. So corrected 2 tubes from within with this problem, which also should improve the flow, and ended up after some hammering with the 3 pieces aligning almost as expected with no efforts and all bolts enabled to be inserted straight.

With the round shapes restored, these should be soon, like the other side, ready for sandblasting and some coating.

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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