71-73 performance and price.

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moejr

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I am wondering what kind of performance would a 71-73 Mustang give with a 351 2v automatic with 3.00 rear gear.

Also what would one cost to buy in #3 driver condition. Base Mustang not a Mach or anything fancy.

All help is greatly appreciated.

Moe

 
One thing I will say. You will find that these cars in this era did not come from the factory with loads of HP because of Jimmy Carter and the present political atmosphere. In fact Ford (the president) was an ass as well. What you will find though is that for a reasonably small amount of investment you can get your car to scream from point a to point b. In fact I would say that a well modified 351C could stomp the living hell out of any present day stock mustang, camaro or challenger. And do it safely too.

 
Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.

 
Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.
Click to expand...
As described - high 15's

With a Holley 500 - mid 15's

With a 4v intake and 4 bbl carb - low 15's at best

This assumes you have dual exhaust and the stock exhaust manifolds

Headers would cut off a few tenths and a shift kit might help.

Ram air does not really seem to make much difference.

Changing the rear end ratio would certainly improve E.T's at the expense of top speed.

 
That's what I needed to know. This would be a cruiser so all out performance is really not a concern. From what I have gathered the car I described could be had for around 8k? Is that realistic for a #3 car?

 
Do you have a particular car in mind, or are you just looking for parameters? In my limited experience, most of what you pay for won't be the drivetrain necessarily, but the condition of the body and interior parts. A shitty rustbucket will obviously be cheaper than an Arizona car, but you'll have to put a lot more work into it. I'd say a plain-jane sportroof 302 2V in decent shape should go for $6-$8,000, but keep in mind this is based on opinion and limited experience. I've seen crappier cars go for $8,000, and I've seen better cars go for sub-$6,000.

BTW, what do you mean by #3 driver car? Weekend cruiser?

 
Do you have a particular car in mind, or are you just looking for parameters? In my limited experience, most of what you pay for won't be the drivetrain necessarily, but the condition of the body and interior parts. A shitty rustbucket will obviously be cheaper than an Arizona car, but you'll have to put a lot more work into it. I'd say a plain-jane sportroof 302 2V in decent shape should go for $6-$8,000, but keep in mind this is based on opinion and limited experience. I've seen crappier cars go for $8,000, and I've seen better cars go for sub-$6,000.

BTW, what do you mean by #3 driver car? Weekend cruiser?
Click to expand...
#3 would be a weekend cruiser that the paint and interior may need a little TLC but the drivetrain is solid. Little to no rust is usually in this category.

I do not have a particular car in mind I am just looking for parameters.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.
Click to expand...
As described - high 15's

With a Holley 500 - mid 15's

With a 4v intake and 4 bbl carb - low 15's at best

This assumes you have dual exhaust and the stock exhaust manifolds

Headers would cut off a few tenths and a shift kit might help.

Ram air does not really seem to make much difference.

Changing the rear end ratio would certainly improve E.T's at the expense of top speed.
Click to expand...
Pretty much nailed it.



#3 would be a weekend cruiser that the paint and interior may need a little TLC but the drivetrain is solid. Little to no rust is usually in this category.

I do not have a particular car in mind I am just looking for parameters.
Click to expand...

I think your 8K budget is a good start. Now it's just being patient while you wait for the right deal. Personally, I lean towards solid body vs running good. Deals can usually be found for cars that may have sat for a short while and have some type of mechanical problem. I can fix things better than I can do body work and paint.

Don't rule out convertibles. When the weather is nice, there's nothing like having the top down, the wind in the hair and the sound of dual glass packs.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Base coupe or fastback as I am not a convertible man. Figure drivetrain in good running condition at 100k miles.
Click to expand...
As described - high 15's

With a Holley 500 - mid 15's

With a 4v intake and 4 bbl carb - low 15's at best

This assumes you have dual exhaust and the stock exhaust manifolds

Headers would cut off a few tenths and a shift kit might help.

Ram air does not really seem to make much difference.

Changing the rear end ratio would certainly improve E.T's at the expense of top speed.
Click to expand...
Pretty much nailed it.



#3 would be a weekend cruiser that the paint and interior may need a little TLC but the drivetrain is solid. Little to no rust is usually in this category.

I do not have a particular car in mind I am just looking for parameters.
Click to expand...

I think your 8K budget is a good start. Now it's just being patient while you wait for the right deal. Personally, I lean towards solid body vs running good. Deals can usually be found for cars that may have sat for a short while and have some type of mechanical problem. I can fix things better than I can do body work and paint.

Don't rule out convertibles. When the weather is nice, there's nothing like having the top down, the wind in the hair and the sound of dual glass packs.
Click to expand...
Will E you are like me. I was in the auto repair business for 23 years. Started at my dads shop when I was 9. Mechanical I can do but not body work.

I am not discounting a convertible but they usually command quite a premium over a fixed roof car.

I am almost to the point of having saved enough to start looking so hopefully I'll be cruising again before too long.

 
That's what I needed to know. This would be a cruiser so all out performance is really not a concern. From what I have gathered the car I described could be had for around 8k? Is that realistic for a #3 car?
Click to expand...
Don't underestimate the power of performance. My take is always performance first and good looks later.

mike

 
That's what I needed to know. This would be a cruiser so all out performance is really not a concern. From what I have gathered the car I described could be had for around 8k? Is that realistic for a #3 car?
Click to expand...
Don't underestimate the power of performance. My take is always performance first and good looks later.

mike
Click to expand...
Me too. The car has to run good and ride good first, then on to the body and interior.

 
That's what I needed to know. This would be a cruiser so all out performance is really not a concern. From what I have gathered the car I described could be had for around 8k? Is that realistic for a #3 car?
Click to expand...
Don't underestimate the power of performance. My take is always performance first and good looks later.

mike
Click to expand...
Me too. The car has to run good and ride good first, then on to the body and interior.
Click to expand...
I'd rather have to work on the mechanical stuff than patch up swiss cheese. It doesn't have to look pretty, but for me the body has to be at least somewhat solid.

 
71_resurrection that was great info. Thanks.

I am definitely with SM in that I'd rather do mechanical over body. I have plenty of fast cars but this car is not needed to be a barn burner. A stock 351C-2V with A/T should be a fine cruiser.

 
If you want to drive it often and far and if economy may be an issue... consider the 302. Clevelands are notorious for poor fuel economy even in the 2v configuration. I've been working on economy this summer and have gotten a high of 15 mpg. So far. :D

 
If you want to drive it often and far and if economy may be an issue... consider the 302. Clevelands are notorious for poor fuel economy even in the 2v configuration. I've been working on economy this summer and have gotten a high of 15 mpg. So far. :D
Click to expand...
LOL. I get about half that.

 

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