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Was a busy day . Booked the appointment at Muffler shop to get 2 1/2 inch to the point to meet magna flow 12". thoughts on how far to extend past rear Valance...? Drove 1 hour on Hwy to Ford dealer who installed black vinyl to the lower line like she used to have that was painted. sized up for the proper stripe on the sides is a bit of an issue. Maybe someone can clarify if the side stripe in 73 was tappered from front to back or one uniform width. Tough with very few clues even on this source, and my lady tech was here looking.
 
Was a busy day . Booked the appointment at Muffler shop to get 2 1/2 inch to the point to meet magna flow 12". thoughts on how far to extend past rear Valance...? Drove 1 hour on Hwy to Ford dealer who installed black vinyl to the lower line like she used to have that was painted. sized up for the proper stripe on the sides is a bit of an issue. Maybe someone can clarify if the side stripe in 73 was tappered from front to back or one uniform width. Tough with very few clues even on this source, and my lady tech was here looking.
Taper front to back. (Picture from https://www.mecum.com/lots/327023/1971-ford-mustang-boss-351-fastback/)

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I thought I was done for a while on mine. You guys know how that works. All of the sudden, the horn started blowing a fuse and
the passenger side brake lights quit working. Spent the weekend getting those issues corrected. The fuse ended up being the aftermarket GT Performance steering wheel I put on. I went back to my factory steering wheel and cured it.
 
That's a damn nice example car you posted there Sheriff. It's sitting real nice too!
Thankyou Chuck. truely trying to be right as the year. silly little things. like setting a level in the door frame while setting up.Who thinks of this stuff. oh ya . Love this forum.
Cindy
 
I've been running into all sorts of trouble trying to get the Pertronix unit to work in my car. I finally called them, and they said the rebuilt distributor won't work with the Ignitor. I tried to modify it to work anyway, to no avail. I finally gave up and bought a new Pertronix Billet distributor (I've had problems with that Cardone unit since I got it. I think I ranted about the bad condenser years ago). So I put the new distributor in, and realized that I'm stupid: I forgot to clock the old one to the engine body. Once I put the old one in the new box, I lost the setting. So I had to go through the rigmarole of finding TDC and setting the distributor again. Once I did that, I realized I was stupid again: I was still getting no spark, because I hadn't plugged in the wires. I fixed that, and sprayed some starting fluid in the engine, and...

It coughed and sputtered off and on for about an hour, never quite running. I was working on filling the AOD as it ran bit by bit, but I was getting frustrated that it wouldn't stay running. Once the trans was finally holding fluid level, it was time to shift it to fill the rest of the passages, but I needed the engine running. When I did the underbody a couple years ago, I took the gas tank out. I decided I must have lost the prime on the fuel pump, so I poured some gas down the line to the carb, then fired it up again, and...

My Mustang sprang to life for the first time in years!!! I finished topping off the transmission, running it through the gears, but driving it was cut short by the weather (tornado warning followed by marble-sized hail), the need to set the AOD cable, and the fact that I'm not actually insured to drive the car yet.
 
I started a thing the other day and I’ll be hopefully doing a little each day.
Plan to prime and bodywork as much as I can then talk my buddy into spraying it.
But just might shoot it myself.
Doors are coming off next fenders are media blasted already and I’ll strip the trunk lid myself. Looking to go Wimbledon white or something like this shade of primer.

Gonna move this thread to here.
Striped the car over the weekend so I can do the jams and what nots.
I’ll add pics as I go. IMG_2607.jpegIMG_2608.jpegIMG_2616.jpeg
 
Looks great! Is that an epoxy base? I like the Wimbledon White idea, although admittedly I am biased. My Mach was the exact same color scheme as yours originally, the green metallic with argent. A previous owner painted it Grabber Blue with argent, judging by the wear and patina, that was done before the engine was removed almost thirty years ago. I media blasted it down to bare metal inside and out and sprayed it Wimbledon White with black accents, I am very happy with the color choice.
 
My Speedo cable broke, so in replacing it, I needed to remove the instrument cluster, (because I'm not as agile as I once was under the dash) to disconnect the old , and connect the new. While I had the plastic faceplate out, I realized it was time to spruce that up too. While the chrome was in fair shape, the black was flaking off in places, so I taped off the chrome and turn signals and sanded the black paint lightly, with some 200 grit. I then used Rustoleum 2X Painters Touch, Canyon Black to repaint the black areas. Once installed, it improved the overall appearance. Not perfect but presentable.
 

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I've been running into all sorts of trouble trying to get the Pertronix unit to work in my car. I finally called them, and they said the rebuilt distributor won't work with the Ignitor. I tried to modify it to work anyway, to no avail. I finally gave up and bought a new Pertronix Billet distributor (I've had problems with that Cardone unit since I got it. I think I ranted about the bad condenser years ago). So I put the new distributor in, and realized that I'm stupid: I forgot to clock the old one to the engine body. Once I put the old one in the new box, I lost the setting. So I had to go through the rigmarole of finding TDC and setting the distributor again. Once I did that, I realized I was stupid again: I was still getting no spark, because I hadn't plugged in the wires. I fixed that, and sprayed some starting fluid in the engine, and...

It coughed and sputtered off and on for about an hour, never quite running. I was working on filling the AOD as it ran bit by bit, but I was getting frustrated that it wouldn't stay running. Once the trans was finally holding fluid level, it was time to shift it to fill the rest of the passages, but I needed the engine running. When I did the underbody a couple years ago, I took the gas tank out. I decided I must have lost the prime on the fuel pump, so I poured some gas down the line to the carb, then fired it up again, and...

My Mustang sprang to life for the first time in years!!! I finished topping off the transmission, running it through the gears, but driving it was cut short by the weather (tornado warning followed by marble-sized hail), the need to set the AOD cable, and the fact that I'm not actually insured to drive the car yet.
I get the frustration I have a pertronixs 3 and not super impressed. Especially since it has multi spark using a timing light in a pain. I actually had to buy an old timing light off eBay as it would completely confuse my new one with rpm LCD read out. Shortly will go to aces fuel injection with their timing control. Hopefully it will work better and at least I can modify timing in the handheld control.
 
Looks great! Is that an epoxy base? I like the Wimbledon White idea, although admittedly I am biased. My Mach was the exact same color scheme as yours originally, the green metallic with argent. A previous owner painted it Grabber Blue with argent, judging by the wear and patina, that was done before the engine was removed almost thirty years ago. I media blasted it down to bare metal inside and out and sprayed it Wimbledon White with black accents, I am very happy with the color choice.
Yeah really like the Wimbledon white it’s a very clean and classy color but Grabber Blue might be an option 🤪 then again the original Ivy Glow is pretty nice color especially out in the sun.
And yes it’s an epoxy primer.
Also talked to my buddy yesterday and he said if I get it mostly prepped and primed I can bring over to his shop and use his painter and booth.
 
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took off the dash and the wiring harness and tried to remove the windows from the door but they are installed with wrong bolts so it is basically impossible without breaking something.
 
took off the dash and the wiring harness and tried to remove the windows from the door but they are installed with wrong bolts so it is basically impossible without breaking something.
Post some photos of your window delema
 
The three bolts holding the metal on have no way to come off , ive checked the other side too. The window wont come out without that piece off
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