What did you do to your car today?

TBH, I can't really see the picture that well as it is small, and my 60 year old eyes aren't that good, but it looks like the three nuts are removed. I can't tell what you meant by "held in with the wrong bolts", but below are a couple pics of mine. Fortunately, I have not saved enough to buy my new door panels yet, so I have easy access to take pics to show you, haha. The glass should have three nuts holding the bracket on to the bolts that are threaded through the glass. If the three nuts are removed the bracket will come loose from the glass.

The bolts that the nuts are threaded on are held to the glass with threaded washers that you can't see with the bracket blocking your view of them. When I disassembled my doors to media blast and paint, I was able to remove the bracket with the guide bar together, once the bracket was separated from the glass.

The bolts will stay with the glass when it comes out once the bracket only is removed. To get the glass out of the door the two round plastic stops at the front and rear of the glass need to be removed from the glass first. The are held on by 7/16" headed bolts, I used a 7/16" shallow socket with a swivel head 1/4" ratchet and reached up behind the glass to remove the retaining bolt. The 1/4" ratchet fit between the glass and the outer door skin easily, a 3/8" ratchet might be too bulky. They are easy to get to, you could also remove the three bolts that mount the bracket from the glass the same way but you shouldn't need to do that, if it is the original setup.



If you try to gorilla the glass out with the stops on the glass you will damage the 50 plus year old plastic, don't ask me how I know this, haha.



Too many years playing football with poor fitting helmets, I guess, LOL.

Fortunately, Cwalker509 had an extra and was kind enough to hook me up, because they are not being reproduced as far as I know.

Installed new tailight assemblies, honeycomb panel, rear bumper and trunk torsion springs.

rhigg1959 said:

Installed new tailight assemblies, honeycomb panel, rear bumper and trunk torsion springs.

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Let's see some photos Ron...

See attached.

rhigg1959 said:

See attached.

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Nice!

I’ll be changing oil and checking all bolts underneath before the almost 7hr drive to the Sturgis mustang rally Thursday and staying till Sunday. There is a guy from a close local town following me up with a 66 mustang

pedstagn71 said:

I’ll be changing oil and checking all bolts underneath before the almost 7hr drive to the Sturgis mustang rally Thursday and staying till Sunday. There is a guy from a close local town following me up with a 66 mustang

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Found a bad upper ball joint I’ll be changing out tomorrow before I leave on Thursday

Installed the freshly arrived Strange 3.5" driveshaft.

Hemikiller said:

Installed the freshly arrived Strange 3.5" driveshaft.

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Look like 4350 ujoints?

Yep, 1350 front to back.

Spike Morelli said:

Yes, it's a 351 c . I am using a stock oil pan, and don't really know, or am concerned, at what amount of oil would be in the heads. After owning and driving the original 351c regularly for

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Another perspective

First of all, the gallery system design prioritizes the lifter bore channels (with the exception of crank bearing No. 1). The first place the flow is directed to is the right (passenger) side lifter gallery where this gallery intersects each lifter bore by almost quarter of its bore diameter. It’s got an immense exposed area for its oil feed. Fine for 5500 rpms using factory lifters. Keep in mind this is repeated 16 times - once for each lifter bore. If you have much lifter bore wear at all, that’s a lot of leakage potential, especially when it’s at the priority lubrication site. Ford actually had “351C Specific” lifters with specially sized oil holes to control the oil flow up the push rods to the upper assembly. Now think for a moment: Suppose you rebuilt a Cleveland and stuck aftermarket lifters (having larger oil orifices in them – which the parts guys know nothing about) in old worn lifter bores and used aftermarket pushrods that also had your typical large (relatively speaking) oil holes and then ran this engine up to 7500 rpms. What do you think happens? Here’s what does: 1st – the oil pressure builds and it squeezes out towards wherever the resistance is least. If the lifter bores are fairly worn, a bit squeezes out of each (that’s 16 small leaks). If you didn’t buy “Cleveland Specific” lifters (not even available any more) or pushrods with restriction oil orifices, then each lifter’s larger than “Cleveland Specific” oil hole size now allowslots of oil to shoot up to the top end. Remember there is an unlimited source of oil supply to each lifer from its huge oil gallery exposed area. That’s again times 16. Now that’s a lot of oil going up to the top end with potentially a lot leaking around the lifters as well. With the oil pump reving up to 7500 RPMs, that’s more flow than was ever initially accounted for, especially without the factory limiting lifter holes. Fluids don’t compress, so the faster the pump turns, the more oil it moves. This can be so much flow that the small (factory) oil drain holes in the stock heads often can’t drain it as fast as its coming up all 16 supply tubes. It’s even possible for the entire right side (that’s the oil flow’s first delivery side) valve cover chamber to completely fill with oil and then shoot up through the PVC valve and into the intake manifold. Don’t need to tell you what that does. That’s why you may see some older high performance 351C with oil leaking all around the valve covers, especially the right.
So - what do you think is happening to the oil level in the pan at this point? Yep, it’s getting really low, especially in a stock 5 quart volume oil pan. It might even be sucking out faster than it is returning at real high RPMs. Keep in mind that oil pressure is also probably running low not just due to the 16 lifter bore leaks, but even more so since the oil is finding very little resistance (like more leaks) through the upper valve train (unlike the original factory assembly parts). So you’re now running at reduced pressure (32 leaks in all) with less flow to the crank (it’s mostly going to the top end) and a decreasing pan oil level. Now say you are racing this on a track and you’re cornering at a few G’s. What’s the oil doing in the pan now? Yep, what little is in there is all pushed over to one side. Sssssuuck….cavitate…no flow! …zero oil pressure!…crank bearing seize! …BANG!!! Pieces of Cleveland everywhere - all in a split second! That lesson was first learned back in the ‘70’s . Did you know that little bit of very old history? Do you understand it? Think an oil bypass line would have made any difference? It’s primarily a leakage problem, not a supply issue - that is until you’ve pumped your pan dry. But it all started from internal leaks which were aggravated at high RPM because of an oil gallery design that didn’t prioritize the crank bearings and required special lifters to keep from over oiling the top end. The problem was then aggravated by oil drain holes that couldn’t keep up with the high oil flow to the top end at high RPMs. A higher flow oil pump would only aggravate the situation! In this racing scenario where you experience sustained lateral G’s, a high capacity baffled oil pan (7 qt or better) would have helped.

As previously stated, the oil system dilemma stems from a oil gallery design that prioritized the right lifter gallery (with the exception of crank bearing No. 1) andthen supplies the cam, crank and left lifter gallery all as a second priority. Now if the next successive path of least resistance is through the left side lifter gallery (for the very same “leak” reasons as the right), then that’s where the pressure will direct most of the remaining flow, even though the distance is shorter to crank bearings 2-5. Anyone understanding basic hydraulics realizes that a fluid will flow to wherever the resistance is least, which is wherever the pressure is bleeding off the quickest - which means where the leaks are. You can’t redirect flow if there is a pressure differential fighting this new direction. Attempting to redirect oil flow to the back side of the right lifter bore gallery accomplishes absolutely nothing! One must fix the leaks before anything else you do is going to matter! This is basic fluid dynamics.

Since you used my quote, I can assume the above is directed towards my "I'm not worried about it" posting, If it is for my benefit,,,,,,,,,,, you are preaching to the choir. I know about the lifter issue. It is not a problem with stock, or street warmed up engines. Now,......if you are seriously racing , bushed lifter bores are indeed the answer, I did bushings on my new street engine, ( yet to be installed in the car ) ONLY because I could, as I have built engines for a living, and could do the block machining for free. However, street engines should never see 7500 rpm, RPM stands for "Ruins Peoples Motors"", and is reached only momentarily in drag racing. In the movie "Ford vs Ferrarri", that issue is part of the story. Anyone contemplating turning that rpm should likely ditch the factory parts and go aftermarket. Running the risk of repeating myself, as I've said this in other posts, I've been running factory oiling on my Mach, on the street for 34 years now with no issues. No, I don't race it. With the kitted auto trans, and 3.50:1 gears, If I put the pedal to the floor, it shifts at 4000 anyway, but I don't drive it that way so no worries.

Little by little

Sheriff41 said:

Taper front to back. (Picture from https://www.mecum.com/lots/327023/1971-ford-mustang-boss-351-fastback/)

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will be using this car as the templete tomorrow. Naniamo Ford dealer going to install the vinyl edition printed by computer.
Sept5. have to go back for the front lower piece.Not super impressed, with she would have called to say program would not taper size seems wrong too,but it is what it is and only a handful of people would know what it supposed to be where I am. THere were only positive comments made.
FRONT Ginger reciever seat belts anyone?

CJ miller said:

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Looks like the perfect day for a convertible. Nice photo.

Gotta keep plugging away

Gotta get It ready before it gets cold.

Drained the old gas and put new gas in it. Replaced the rubber fuel lines, a new fuel filter, added a fuel cutoff switch (under the hood) and added air to the tires.
Although I have moved it around a little and started it pretty regularly the Mustang wasn't getting much love until a couple of weeks ago. I've got the carbs problem worked out and a 'basic tune' back in place. I am going to driving it around tomorrow, not far and not fast, the tires are very old (but it's been parked inside so they are not dry rotted) and the motor mounts are broken, I suspect the transmission mount is too.

Not much sense in 'tuning it' until I get some decent rubber (shoes and mounts). So if it drives around okay tomorrow I'll order up some new tires. Then in another week or two and the weather will cool off and I will tackle the motor mounts. I'll probably change the oil while I am at it. And perhaps the ATF too, I added a drain plug years ago so it's pretty easy to swap it out.

Then I hope to get to do some driving for a change.

Drove it! Ran fine. Actually, best it has for a long time. Just puttered around the neighbor hood and local streets. Kept it to 45 and below. But I think I can now take it to the tire shop without fear of it dying in their bay. (Been there, done that!). Then it's onto the Motor mounts. That will get it drivable. I have 'a list' of things to do but none will keep me from enjoying a bit of driving. Looking forward to it.