Okay all, thank you for all the inputs. I really appreciate it.
Seems i was not thourough enough when checking for vacuum leaks.
I found one now... Guess where? You will never ever believe me :whistling: Riiiiight between the inlet runners for cylinder 5 and 6, closer to number 5...:shootself: not even internal (if not both)
So i guess i have to re-do the intake manifold. Well ill rather do that than yank the engine out again
Hope my local part shop has gasket and rtv black in stock, i booked "veichle inspection" on tuesday, and car show at work on wednesday, wich i had intended to take part in.
And rcadd1ct: yes i do
Sooo glad you found that leak. Once again, I can offer something from my own recent troubles. This is just what I did, not saying it's the only way. After I got my engine back in and running, the clown that built the engine used the rubber end seals and I got a big oil leak at the back of the motor. I had to pull the intake and do it my myself. No big issue really.
Have you done an intake before? If not, perhaps the method I found will help. I have no doubt removing the intake is no problem for you. I found that by using a couple of 5/16" eye bolts in the carb bolt holes and a piece of pipe, made lifting out and back in much easier, but you may need help lifting it.
1: make sure everything is cleaned up and spotless. Wipe surfaces with a degreaser (not lacquer thinner) or alcohol, (not Scotch) Also, make sure nothing gets into the engine and ports.
To save some money and
ONLY if your valley pan is undamaged and reusable, you can cut your own paper gaskets from .015" gas proof material. Most will just go buy new, but I'm cheap!! Any doubt, buy a new Fel-Pro set.
2: RTV is NOT gas proof. I had good results using Permatex Form-A-Gasket 2 around the ports. This product does not come with an application tube , but one from an RTV tube will fit. I applied it under the paper to hold it in place and on both sides of the valley pan. The instructions call for a thin bead of sealant on the top side only. You don't need much, but a continuous bead is important.
3: on the ends, spend a few more bucks and buy a small tube of Permatex 'The Right Stuff'. You will need a corking gun. The casting surface must be wiped clean and dry. Apply a bead at least 1/4" and up the ends of the heads as well part way so the corners don't leak. Reassemble the intake within 5 minutes. A two man job!!! I didn't do it, but a couple of 5/16" threaded rods long enough that you can take them out again can be use to locate the intake. I just used two of the bolts, one on each side. Bolt it all up and torque to 27-33 ft lbs. on the 3/8th bolts, 20-25 ft lbs on the 5/16". Re- torque again to be sure. I don't have it, but someone may have a diagram of the torque sequence and can post it, but basically start in the middle and work outward from one side to the other if that makes sense.
I know you are very capable and I don't mean to state the obvious or insult your intelligence, but sometimes it is the obvious things we miss. Been-there-done-that!!!
Leave it for 24 hours and hopefully your troubles will be gone.
Good luck,
Geoff.
