1972 Mustang Coupe 302

[Cleveland Crush]

Paul, the floor pan is a common area for attention/replacement on our cars, don't stress over it. The parts are easily available for that fix. I'd also suggest a simple turn signal flasher AND four way flasher controller replacement; often times it will fix stubborn turn signal and brake light issues (not sure why probably something to do with Black holes and distant galaxies). Recently I had a Right turn signal that would not operate when the brake lights were on. I replaced the 4 way flasher control (above the glove box) and buta bing buta boom, they now work. I'll let the electrical gurus explan why....hang in there, we are here to help!

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Seems like you're in a place most of us have been, including me in a near identical situation to you currently. You start digging into one issue and uncover more and more. Only you can really answer the "is it going to be worth it" question, but in my opinion it will be. You've made a ton of progress with the car so far, and assuming you keep going you'll be in a place where after the work is "done" at least you know it was done to your own standards, plus you learned more along the way. All cars have problems, there's no way of knowing if you had waited for a car that looked to be in better shape and was priced higher, that it wouldn't have had just as many issues hiding under it. $4500 is a good entry point, and while you're probably not going to be able to sell the car later for what you even have into it, that's also true of most hobbies. If you're enjoying the reward that comes after the frustration (which it sounds like you are so far, with how much fun you have driving it even in its current condition) then you're doing something right.

Interested in your thoughts on replacing all the wiring, as I'm looking at doing the same thing this winter on mine. Been uncovering too many questionable things previous owners have done, plus the effects that 50 years will have in general. What kit are you considering? If only we weren't, in the most literal sense, on completely opposite sides of the county, we could tag team so much of the same issues both our cars have together haha.

Nah, it's all good. I had no illusions about not spending money on the rest, that wasn't where I was going with it. It was more about the process...you make some small progress and then run into a major issue that needs to be addressed. Plus admittedly, I am one of those guys who is wired to get things done, versus dragging them out over a period of time, so patience with rebuilding this is something I am adjusting to.

Bottom line is that I am enjoying it. It's great to be out there on the weekends, and to your point, learning some new things as I go along. Plus at the end of the day, this again, is a driver. So I am not holding myself to any "show standards" of work. She's a blast to drive, it's great watching the transformation (just in the engine itself) and the things that change from where I started. I don't see this being anything that I am looking to get back investment on, or selling. I'll make her solid, ride the bones off and enjoy her for as long as she holds out. That was the goal from the start.

But yeah, there are definitely a couple folks, yourself included, that I wish were in the neighborhood lol. Definitely could tag team! Send me a message and we can exchange numbers. Always up for some dialogue on the cars!

PBR

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Paul, the floor pan is a common area for attention/replacement on our cars, don't stress over it. The parts are easily available for that fix. I'd also suggest a simple turn signal flasher AND four way flasher controller replacement; often times it will fix stubborn turn signal and brake light issues (not sure why probably something to do with Black holes and distant galaxies). Recently I had a Right turn signal that would not operate when the brake lights were on. I replaced the 4 way flasher control (above the glove box) and buta bing buta boom, they now work. I'll let the electrical gurus explan why....hang in there, we are here to help!

Thanks buddy. I did some searches yesterday and did see that almost all the players (CJ, Kentucky, Classic Ind) all carry the floorpan replacement pieces...and for suprisingly affordable prices. It's more about, again, doing the work, since I have zero experience with welding). I'm taking some courses on it, so we'll see. I knew all of this was coming, it's just pretty daunting when you actually see it.

The taillights do work on all functions...it's just that something is draining the battery. I did some troubleshooting last night and left the battery hooked up. So I'm going to go out there in a bit to see if it drained it again, or if I managed to solve the issue. If we have the same issue as the other day, I may have to just start the rewiring completely. Honestly these wires are 50+ years old...so I think it's inevitable that it needs to be done.

Thanks for the support my friend. Appreciate it as always. I'll keep ya posted.

-PBR

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Thanks buddy. I did some searches yesterday and did see that almost all the players (CJ, Kentucky, Classic Ind) all carry the floorpan replacement pieces...and for suprisingly affordable prices. It's more about, again, doing the work, since I have zero experience with welding). I'm taking some courses on it, so we'll see. I knew all of this was coming, it's just pretty daunting when you actually see it.

The taillights do work on all functions...it's just that something is draining the battery. I did some troubleshooting last night and left the battery hooked up. So I'm going to go out there in a bit to see if it drained it again, or if I managed to solve the issue. If we have the same issue as the other day, I may have to just start the rewiring completely. Honestly these wires are 50+ years old...so I think it's inevitable that it needs to be done.

Thanks for the support my friend. Appreciate it as always. I'll keep ya posted.

-PBR

Ps- As of this morning, the battery wasn't drained, however the blinkers stopped working. More to come.

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Morning all. Dealing with an achilles heel here and wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions. I started the bodywork on the coupe and while most of it has been pretty easy to manage, I've run into an area that is (as you all probably know) is problematic. The area around the bottom of the rear window is pretty rusted out. I started pulling the trim off to remove the window and these lower corners and sill are pretty much shot. Got some advice from Rick at NPD, who reiterated that this area is not necessarily a panel or metal that is available and that the option would be to ask around and search some junk lots in dryer-climate areas or fabricate (which is not my specialty). That pretty much eliminates most of the southeast.

If anyone runs across someone or knows someone who has a coupe in a yard and has this area that hasn't been stripped already, or knows a good fabricator that could work this up, can you send me a heads up? The rest of the work was manageable, but this is definitely a sticking point.

Oh and small update from yesterday. The starter went, so I had to replace that and a new solenoid last night. It wouldn't be fun if there wasn't one new thing every day.

- PBR

 

[Hemikiller]

That panel is definitely needs to be reproduced in the near future. It's a common rot spot for 71-73 coupes. The factory replacement panel s three pieces spot welded together. I had one that I cut out of a parts car, but sold it a couple years back. Literally nothing was good on that car, except for the transition panel. Weird.

 

[Paul Schmidt]

All- Any thoughts on this? I had her running great and had been taking her out for some drives consistently...two days ago, started her up and she was running like this...inconsistent idle where it slows down, speeds up...engine starts to shake...will choke out if you let her run without foot on the gas...will choke out if you put her in gear. Nothing was changed since I had her running. When I tried diagnosing it the other day, the starter went, so I replaced that and the solenoid...but aside from that, nothing else changed. Is this a plug issue? (I put new plugs in a month ago when I got her up and running), she has a new fuel pump, new starter, new solenoid, new battery, new wires, new plugs, fresh oil, fresh fluids....I'm a little stumped. It sounds like she's struggling to get fuel maybe? Clogged line? I'm about the change the fuel tank and sender because its rusted and the fuel is looking bad...but I'm wondering if its something stupidly easy, like the gas tank reading half full, but really its not? I poured about a gallon or two of gas in the tank, but that didn't change anything. Thoughts?

 

[Spaceman]

Have you tested for a vacuum leak? I'd also try out some percussive maintenance on the carb.

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Video update 11/1 for those of you interested.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Video update 11/1 for those of you interested.

I agree with your fuel delivery diagnosis. Sounds like the engine is running OK while consuming the existing float bowl fuel, then begins to choke and stumble because the clogged fuel filter doesn't allow enough fuel through to refill the bowl, causing your symptoms.
Good luck with the upcoming welding adventures!

 

[cv_72mustang]

Look at some videos from Fritzee on YouTube . He describes the process he does and explains why. He generally takes small sections and fabs larger sections and he doesn't cut away the original before overlaying the replacement metal. He does a lot with basic tools. TonyD

 

[Bill Perkins]

Video update 11/1 for those of you interested.

Great Video, keep us posted, let us know if the fuel issue was corrected with the new fuel tank installation.

 

[Paul Schmidt]

Look at some videos from Fritzee on YouTube . He describes the process he does and explains why. He generally takes small sections and fabs larger sections and he doesn't cut away the original before overlaying the replacement metal. He does a lot with basic tools. TonyD

This guy is a riot...loved his videos. Thanks for the heads up on this CV, good stuff.

 

[Paul Schmidt]

So I did some things.....

I found myself getting caught up in a lot of "do this, don't do this, do it this way, you're doing it wrong" banter with some folks (not on here) and finally just decided it's my damn build, and I'm going to enjoy doing it the way I want. If it works, great. If not, I'll redo it. So while some of this may be out of order and out of sync, I'm satisfied some things are making visible progress.

First off was working with, and saving, the parts that are good. So I took the drivers side quarter and door down to the bare metal, cleaned it, prepped it and primed it so at least its protected and I can just move along the car as I can in parts. Also did the trunk lid tonight. Thought I was going to have to replace that to be honest, but turns out whoever was mucking with this thing prior to me, put a shitload of bondo on it only to cover a few dings. The metal underneath was all great, but someone went apeshit with about a 1/4 inch of bondo. Not sure what the reasoning was in that, but I added another $237 to the "saved" money pot by taking the time to take it down and save the lid. I haven't gotten all the bondo off yet, but the majority of it is sanded. Once done, I'll clean seal and prime that as well.

One note, the blotches you see on the primed areas are the sun coming through the trees. Primer came out really good actually.

Again, most people probably won't agree to doing this in this order, but I'm slowly taking care of the things that I can to save money and get them protected, so I'm stoked about that. As you can see, I haven't tackled the holes yet...still working up the courage to deal with the mig welder.

Oh and I didn't get the gas tank, fuel line and filter in yet to see if it improves the running problem. The fuel line is delayed and on backorder. Another reason I jumped on this stuff over the weekend.

- PBR

 

[Spaceman]

Looking good!