1973 Convertible Project: Coupe Parts Swap Begins

[Steve McMahan]

In the coupe build I did, I ran a ground cable from the battery down through a hole in the floor with a grommet in the trunk to the frame to one of those two holes that are in it for the transportation brace. From there, I ran a ground cable along the fuel line path covered at strategic locations with 5/8 diameter Heater hose. And I ended up routing the ground strap through the hole in the driver’s firewall that was usually used for the fuel line. And it was really good and all the driving I did I never scuffed it or scratch anything else. So I’m gonna repeat that process on the vert. I’m doing all that because all my major wiring is on the drivers apron.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I’m sure running a ground cable the length of the car is overkill, but one thing I’ve learned is that you cannot have too many grounds.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Pics of my mocked-up ground wire:



It matches the path on my coupe. It’s nice and tucked up next to the fuel return line. I’m waiting for my new fasteners to show up before I attach it to the car. I have nice cushion stainless steel clamps. Thanks.

 

[darb_123]

On your nuts and bolts, have you considered soaking them in White Vinigar for two days to remove the rust then giving them a phosphorus treatment?

 

[Steve McMahan]

The reason why I’m waiting on fasteners is that when I originally did the coupe I was kind of in the post mock up, see if it will hold together phase. So there were metric fasteners, English fasteners, and when I took it all off, it just looked like a mess. So now that I know it survived a year of driving it, I wanted to do something for the hopefully final time and dress it up a little and make it look a little bit nicer.

I do have a cleaning system that consist of concrete etching acid from Home Depot in a bucket, an ultrasonic cleaner, and a Tumbler with media from Harbor freight. It does a pretty good job so I don’t have to use the wire wheel to keep creating projectiles in my garage lol.

 

[Steve McMahan]

On a different note, when I was removing the latch on my truck lid, I saw this mechanism to hold the lock in place that I’ve never seen before. My other 73 doesn’t have it. Is this more common than the inside the lid clip that you install through that open in the deck lid? Here are pics of what I discovered:



If someone knows, what was the reason for the two different designs on the same model year?

 

[Steve McMahan]

Speaking of phosphorus treatment, how would I go about doing these two parts? I think I’m correct when I say that the parking brake mechanism and the hood lock mechanism does not get painted.

I’ve already cleaned them in that concrete etching acid to the point that they’re both very sparkly clean. Now they’ve been sitting for a few weeks so the parking break looks like it still has remains if some anodizing treatment.

Can someone send me to the right site or a process for phosphorus treatment? I would love to learn how to do it.




Thank you.

 

[California 72]

The reason why I’m waiting on fasteners is that when I originally did the coupe I was kind of in the post mock up, see if it will hold together phase. So there were metric fasteners, English fasteners, and when I took it all off, it just looked like a mess. So now that I know it survived a year of driving it, I wanted to do something for the hopefully final time and dress it up a little and make it look a little bit nicer.

I do have a cleaning system that consist of concrete etching acid from Home Depot in a bucket, an ultrasonic cleaner, and a Tumbler with media from Harbor freight. It does a pretty good job so I don’t have to use the wire wheel to keep creating projectiles in my garage lol.

Had the same problem with "projectiles" and eventually did solve it. Tried the soaking method, mine was vinegar and didn't have the tumbler or sonic washer so I changed up a couple items from replace to refinish and took a slightly different path after looking at the new fasteners in tpj71mach's posts. I also had a couple "organizational" issues with separate boxes and bags filled with assorted parts end up becoming a game of 2000 piece pick-up and finally, the vacuum eating a few that I missed while cleaning up.
Anyhow, AMK had the kits and just decided that having them new, separated and labeled in bags would be better than sorting thru the mess of fasteners and thru the bag in the shop-vac. Sorting thru the shop-vac would have been nightmarish with what's been picked up in there.
In the end, I'm hoping it was the right choice, although, to be very honest, if mine looks half as good as some of the projects out there, I'll be ecstatic.

 

[Hemikiller]

The externally installed clip was (from what I've read) a way to reduce injuries at the assembly plant. I can tell you that installing the clip on an earlier trunk lid without bleeding is luck of the draw.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I found the interior mounted clip easier to install than that outside one. I was able to install it, but it took me quite a while. And, I got lucky, no blood.

 

[Steve McMahan]

@Hemikiller, did I read a post that you put up quite a while ago, regarding engine, pedestals and engine mounts, that the convertible versus coupe/fastback clamshell mounts were different on a 73 (As in, there are different clamshell mounts for a 73)? I have the correct 73 vert pedestals, but I have my original 73 Coupe clamshell motor mounts, and was wondering if that will work. I understand they will fit, regardless, but I can’t find any info if they are two different ones. I ordered the two Torino clamshell mounts to use to rebuild my mounts, in any case. Just trying to stay ahead of my faulty memory.

 

[Hemikiller]

Steve, the convertible mounts and frame brackets are different than the hardtop/sportsroof parts and are not compatible with each other. You can swap your hardtop setup into the convertible.

 

[Steve McMahan]

So, then it’s true, that in 1973, Ford made two different clamshell motor mounts. One for the hardtop/sportsroof, and a different one for the convertible. Does anyone have a set of each so the exact differences can be illustrated?

 

[Steve McMahan]

Ok, so I couldn’t let go of this clamshell motor mounts (CMM) issue, and I happen to have a set of coupe CMM and one CMM from my basket case Vert. They are different, but I’m unable to evaluate how this mount and perch difference alter the engines location, and how all of that fits with the lower radiator mounts, etc: stuff that has to fit around the engine.

So, here are the two, side my side (Coupe on the left, Convertible on the right), with the engine attachment flanges clamped to the same surface, so the differences are not altered by the setup, this is how they present themselves to the frame perches, and I believe I’m correct, on both a 302 and a 351C:



I had to pick a location that was common to both mounts, to see how the attachment points would differ from the two. So, I picked the centerline of the mount to perch attachment point. It’s hard to see but I inscribed a centerline to measure that distance to the virtual block attachment point (the table top). For the Convertible, the distance is 3.5” and the Coupe is 2.8”. Also, you can tell the angle of the clamshell is different between the two with the Vert at 30 degrees and the Coupe at 46 degrees. Of interest, to me, is the lower “part” of the clamshell piece is exactly the same for both; length, width, and the height of its face to the perch attachment point.

So, if you rebuild a vert CMM, the engine attaching metal segment is the unique part, with the perch attaching part the same on both. Just an interesting item.

So, with only one Vert CMM, I’m not sure what to do. I’m worried my radiator to fan & shroud will not work, etc …