351W identification

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48Ford

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
23
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Location
Kansas
My Car
72 coupe 73 fastback
I have a 1973 fastback that I'm building. An old lady had a 351 motor out of her deceased husbands mustang II that he rebuilt. She said I could have it for 200 bucks so I bought  it for my 73. I'm trying to figure out what year it is and the block casting is E4AE which means it's a 84 I believe? Now I'm trying to figure out the heads on this thing. I cannot find any casting on the outside of the heads but on the inside it has 6B13 and 6E13 on the other. Are these 1966 heads? Is there any benefits on putting 1966 heads on on a 84 351w? How do I find out what kindve heads they are, because that's the only casting numbers I can find.

 
They didn't start making 351Ws until 1969, so your heads will be 1976, as is the block. E4AE-DA blocks were built from 1975 to 1978. I believe you'll need to pull the intake manifold to find the casting number.

 
They didn't start making 351Ws until 1969, so your heads will be 1976, as is the block. E4AE-DA blocks were built from 1975 to 1978. I believe you'll need to pull the intake manifold to find the casting number.
Okay good, I was thinking I had to pull the heads. The date code I pictured under the valve cover decoded as 1966 feburary 13? What's that date for if the head are 1976? I'm confused

 
Me too, I messed up on my reply above, your block has a 1984 casting mumber and was built in 1986. Your heads are also likely 1986. The 6 in the date code is just the year, not the decade. You generally rely on the casting number for the decade, which, because your casting number begins with "E", is 1980. Right below the block casting number is the block date code, which begins with a 6. Because they didn't begin 351W production until 1969 your heads would have to be 1976 or 1986. 1976 would be more desirable because they have smaller chambers and larger ports. Other than that the best 351W heads are the GT40 and GT40P heads from the '90s.

With the intake manifold off you should be able to see the head casting number under the edge of the head, from inside the valley, use a mirror or camera. You can see where they are in the link that David provided.

 
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I'd leave it as-is and run it. If it's been rebuilt, it should do just fine. 86 351W could be from a truck or Crown Vic special service vehicle. Neither are rockets, but provide good, reliable, torquey power.

 
I'd leave it as-is and run it. If it's been rebuilt, it should do just fine. 86 351W could be from a truck or Crown Vic special service vehicle. Neither are rockets, but provide good, reliable, torquey power.
I will for now! I was worried because someone told me an 86 351w with stock heads make less hp than a 302 so I was disappointed on my purchase

 
Whoever told you that was probably comparing the SAE gross horsepower of pre-1972 302s to the SAE net horsepower of the 1986 351W. In 1986 the 302 and 351W used the same cylinder head and the 351W had more horsepower and significantly more torque.

Ford changed from SAE gross horsepower rating to SAE net horsepower rating in 1972. This made the 1972, and later, engines appear to have much less horsepower. While actual horsepower was down, due to increasing emissions standards, it was only down slightly, not nearly as much as the change in rating standard made it seem.

 
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I am not up on all the differences and depending on what transmission you have that might not work. There is no place for a clutch pivot on the 84 was cable clutch and the balance and firing orders were also changed. Be careful of what parts you mix and match do some research first.

 I thought all 351W were balanced at 28oz? It's going on a 3 speed manual trans that originally was powered by a 250 6 cylinder. Since the 250 6 cylinder had the same bolt pattern as a 302, and 302 shares the same pattern as 351, I figured it will be a bolt in swap besides a new flywheel. Can anyone say otherwise?

 
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Here's the car if anyone was wondering. I dont get much interest from people when I try to show off my car. besides on this website lol



 
48Ford,

Only a face a Mother and people like us could love!  Lets see, a little polish and some love and most of that should buff right out! Looks a lot like my once red 71 Mach 1 that is now a nice faded pink while it waits for my money tree to mature. (Your choice on what shade of pink your thinking of)

The 351W really is a good engine choice if you can't find a affordable 351C engine and don't want to big block your car. There is a mind boggling amount of aftermarket support for the W's, especially from Ford Racing (Formally SVO). I was one of the first ones to join the crowd that proclaimed the W would disappear forever after the 351C was released in 1970. Glad Ford kept it around and used it alongside the "H" 351C for car and truck use. It saw use in the full size Crown Victoria through 1991 (1982-91 HO version only available in Police car) and the E and F series trucks through 1996. 

You have already received some great info from everyone, so I'll just add some additional items to help you.

All 1969-1996 351 W engines were 28oz balance engines. And of course you are already aware of the 250, 302, 351 C & W sharing the same bellhousing bolt pattern. Starting 7-11-83 there was a new block released utilizing  a single piece rear main oil seal. The date codes on your block and heads are all in the Feb, April, May 1986 range so are all probably original. There were  2bl, VV (Variable Venturi) and 84-87 4bl versions available in the truck line with EFI starting with the 88 model year. If you can find a partial vin stamping on the left rear of the block you can try to sort out if you have a car or truck engine. 

Starting in 84 Ford did go to a hydraulic clutch set up in the truck line. Since the Mustang used a bracket on the engine side that bolted to the rear of the bell housing, the block with no provision for a pivot stud won't affect your application. If you don't have your original Mustang bracket,  they can be found on all 71-73 M/T Mustangs (except 429) and all 72-74 M/T Gran Torinos. )Part # D1ZZ-7A572-A).

Since you stated that the previous owner had already overhauled the engine, I would take Hemi Killers advice and install the engine as is.  Run it and then you can evaluate what it might or might not need. Even if it does need to be pulled, it's not like you are pulling a 460 out of a Pinto!

Hope this has helped you with the additional info you were looking for.      :)

 
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