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Enjoy!
71 Mach 1 Update video #7
- Thread starter Trevynd
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Another great vid. You are starting to make some real progress now. Won't be long before you start putting things back together That is when the real thrill begins.
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- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
thanks! man, i cannot WAIT until i have the doors, fenders, deck lid, grill and stuff on, even if its just for a quick look. itl be some much appreciated inspriation!
Looks great! Very Nice Job!!
Don't forget to fit the front fender extensions when you mock up the fenders. Especially on the aftermarket fender. They are notorious for not having the proper curve to them to match the extension. I had to make about a 6" pie cut in the fender and weld it back up to get the fender curve to match the extension curve.
Keep up the good work. Your making a ton of progress!
Don't forget to fit the front fender extensions when you mock up the fenders. Especially on the aftermarket fender. They are notorious for not having the proper curve to them to match the extension. I had to make about a 6" pie cut in the fender and weld it back up to get the fender curve to match the extension curve.
Keep up the good work. Your making a ton of progress!
- Joined
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- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
Thanks for the tips!
so I have two aftermarket fender extensions to try in case somethig doesn’t work and also have a another OEM fender if all else fails.
as I’m looking at all these parts I am amazed the amount of “play” or movement allowed in all the variable components. makes sense why it can be quite a challenge lining everything up!
Take your time and dont rush when lining everything up. get it as perfect as you can. Then when your happy with it, drill alignment holes in the hinges and fenders so when you put them back on the car after paint they will line right back up. I usually remove 1 hinge bolt and drill my hole where the washer will hide it when done. Same with the fenders. you can use a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" pin to line up holes when you re assemble.
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- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
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- 1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Scrap the SS brake lines.
Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is. With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.
From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this. Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box. Seal it all up bleed it and test it. That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.
If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it. It eats paint quick.
kcmash
Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is. With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while.
From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this. Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box. Seal it all up bleed it and test it. That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily.
If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it. It eats paint quick.
kcmash
Here is a link to the pins I used. They are magnetic and work great.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pin-alignment-system.html
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- Joined
- Jun 17, 2020
- Messages
- 293
- Reaction score
- 370
- Location
- Homer, Alaska
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
Oh goodness! I’m glad you said something, funny enough, I actually have another brand new line that’s just standard galvanized steel.
I can use that instead! I didn’t realize it was an issue!
- Joined
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- Homer, Alaska
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2020
- Messages
- 293
- Reaction score
- 370
- Location
- Homer, Alaska
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
You know what’s interesting is that I can tell this lone had been replaced before. And the connection to the proportioning is SEIZED. That’s why the stainless line isn’t actually connected yet.
I heated up the proportioning valve quite a bit in hopes to free it up and it did not work. Now I’m thinking I should prob replace that too
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