71 Mustang cowl area.

[dave1956]

92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.

 

[OMS]

My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner.  

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

Nothing A LITTLE BUFFING COMPOUND COULDN'T solve, though.   ::thumb::

Eric ... fixed that for you   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

 

[mrxerox]

92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.



If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

 

[Mister 4x4]

My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner.  

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

Nothing A LITTLE BUFFING COMPOUND COULDN'T solve, though.   ::thumb::

Eric ... fixed that for you   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz

 

[Mister 4x4]

92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.



If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

The Classic Auto Air set-up only runs air from the inside, which would be dedicated 'recirculation mode' or 'Max A/C' for factory-equipped cars.  That's why they say to leave the passenger side 'air hat' intake open.  I made a second round plate to block that one off as well, but I think I'll wind up removing it and reinstalling the passenger side non-A/C fresh air plenum piece so I can use the cable-operated function to switch between fresh and recirculated air.  Probably take some creative thinking to make it work with the flex ducts that came with the CAA kit, though.

 

[tony-muscle]

92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.



If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

The Classic Auto Air set-up only runs air from the inside, which would be dedicated 'recirculation mode' or 'Max A/C' for factory-equipped cars.  That's why they say to leave the passenger side 'air hat' intake open.  I made a second round plate to block that one off as well, but I think I'll wind up removing it and reinstalling the passenger side non-A/C fresh air plenum piece so I can use the cable-operated function to switch between fresh and recirculated air.  Probably take some creative thinking to make it work with the flex ducts that came with the CAA kit, though.

Good idea. Just like the drivers side wired butterfly. That's one of the reasons I didn't like the Classic Auto Air system.

 

[71coop]

On that note, I installed the CAA system over the winter,and left the driver side hat and pull cable intact. I think it allows adequate fresh air into the cabin when the pull cable/hat is open. It just all comes in under the dash vs the vent. It would take some creative fabrication to integrate the CAA flex ducts without degrading the AC air flow on that side.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

 

[tony-muscle]

I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

Good point.  Probably able to use a universal manual choke cable or something to replace it to get the length, then just swap the knob and bracket.  Thanks!  ::thumb::

 

[tony-muscle]

I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

Good point.  Probably able to use a universal manual choke cable or something to replace it to get the length, then just swap the knob and bracket.  Thanks!  ::thumb::

LOL. How easy we get suck into more projects to make our life easier..... :huh: