71 Mustang cowl area.

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Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.
I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.
Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you

 
This is another idea on how to fix cowl rust if not as severe. I used the earlier Mustangs cowl hat for this repair and worked it all through the existing openings. Not trying to win any beauty contests but it is all hidden and does the trick. This thread also has a lot of pictures taken with a phone snake camera.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-method-for-cowl-repair

 
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Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.
I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.
Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you
 
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Here’s the one I got, it works pretty good. I like it cause of the shorter cable but the long ones could come in handy too. This one has a smaller diameter scope than most I looked at. Should get in some tight spots.

https://www.amazon.com/NIDAGE-Automotive-Inspection-Semi-Rigid-Smartphones/dp/B07C9C6P5D
Thanks for the information however this camera will work with a iPhone and not work with my phone (LG G5 Android). I found one that will work with my phone on Ebay.

TYPE C USB Mini Endoscope Camera 7mm 2m 1m 1.5m Flexible Hard Cable Snake Borescope Inspection Camera for Android Smartphone PC

 
Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.
I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.
Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you
I have not ordered the camera yet. The camera needed depends on the type of phone you have. I currently have a LG G5 Android phone which uses a 'Type C USB connector'. The camera I found on Ebay from a Canadian seller for less than $15.00 is: TYPE C USB Mini Endoscope Camera 7mm 2m 1m 1.5m Flexible Hard Cable Snake Borescope Inspection Camera for Android Smartphone PC.


Hope this helps?



Hope this helps?


 
Back to your original issue wipers. There is a tricky little clip on the wiper motor that retains the arm going to the wipers. It has a hook that snaps over the end of the pivot pin on the wiper motor arm. You have to lift the tab up to slide the clip off. They are known to jump off and bing gone. 

Once you get the arm unhooked you can remove your wiper motor. I took mine apart and it was full of dried up grease. I washed everything up and put Lucas Red & Tacky grease back in. Way better than the old lubriplate white grease. I use on windows also. 

With your camera you should be able to see the clip and get off easily. You need to get you a pair of the grills to go back on your cowl vents. 

I always tell people not to wash your mustang with running water. I goes into the cowl, doors and quarters and feeds the rust. The old sealer was applied before primer even. So it cracks and that exposes raw steel to the water. 

I use 1/4" mesh wire to put a barrier on the back side of the plastic inserts. I spray flat black on the wire and you cannot see. I also put a piece of it over the heater box opening when I take them out. The other place critters get in is the two cowl vent drains on each side. I cut a piece of stainless steel scrubber pad and stuff in there. Mouse cannot get in and water can get out. 

Cowl vent leaks are usually what causes the front floors to rust out. Water leaks in and keeps the carpet wet and rust the floor from inside.

Sorry not pics I had computer crash and this one is about dead also. The touch pad quit working and I slapped on wireless keyboard to keep it going.

 
Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

cowl1.jpg


cowladamagedriver.jpg


cowldamagepassenger.jpg


It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.

 
Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

cowl1.jpg


cowladamagedriver.jpg


cowldamagepassenger.jpg


It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.
My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

 
My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!
Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner. ;)  :cool:

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

enginebay10.jpg


Nothing a new front clip couldn't solve, though.   ::thumb::

 
Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.
I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.
Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you
This is the camera I purchased: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Waterproof-HD-3-in1-Android-USB-Type-C-Endoscope-Inspection-5-5mm-Camera-6-LEDs/312798571959?var=611526702747

 
Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

cowl1.jpg


cowladamagedriver.jpg


cowldamagepassenger.jpg


It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.
Eric, I think now I know who's car is this:

Ha!  Honestly, I'd wondered...   rofl

 
Update: I decided to treat removal of the sheet metal over the vent area like a band aid - ripper off.

The sheet metal that covered the vent holes was not welded in but a layer of silicone beaded around the edge so removal was very easy.

On the passenger cowl side, there was a repair done from underneath the dash area.

What I found was quite a surprise and relieved at the same time - see pics and let me know what you thin

 
So the round vent hole has been removed and sheet metal fitted from the underside, to do that the previous owner would have had to remove Heater box, are there any modifications to your heater box? Wondering how fresh air gets into the car?

 
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Yes the round vent hole has been removed and sheet metal fitted under the dash by the previous owner (see pic).

I would imagine that the heater box was removed to do this repair and from what I can see there have been no modifications to the heater box.

As for fresh air I roll the windows down.



 
You have a part missing from your Heater Box! The fan should be enclosed and there would have been an Upturn going to the missing round metal Vent hole with a rubber gasket.

(so the fan would have been drawing in fresh air from outside the car).

 
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