73 fuse box questions

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Vinnie

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Hey folks,

So a few days ago my 73's engine died on me caused by a blown fuse. This prompts me to check out my fuse box and it looks like this:



Haynes wrote this:



So:

1) Road side assistance wired the blown fuse which is nr 4 in Haynes. It states that one of the things it's for is electronic spark control. Are they referring to the old points in the distributor with this? That would make sense. Initially though I thought they meant electronic ignition but our cars didn't come with that so how...

I guess I'd just like conformation that fuse nr 4 has something to do with our ignition system...

2) I seem to be missing the parts related to the accessory feed. Was that optional or must they have been ripped out?

3) Are these fuse boxes being reproduced? I haven't found them in any of the bigger online shops...

Anybody?

Cheers,

Vincent.

 
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midlife

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That 14 amp fuse powers up some RUN-only lines, mostly the anti-stall carb solenoid, some relays for seat belt lights, and possibly the dash lamps associated with brake distribution block and alternator. Yes, the ACC feed was used when certain optional accessories required ACC power.

Throw that Haynes Manual away and get a real Ford Shop Manual.

Fuseboxes are not reproduced; I have a good harvest of them. Your box doesn't look all that bad. The fuses both below (4 amp) and above (30 amp) the one in question are incorrect.

 

Fabrice

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Winnie, if you find a place with the proper glass fuses with original values here in Holland, let me know. Found and bought many in other values, but 14a the length we need are hard to find. I have only one 15a of this length left over and would love to buy few more.

Midlife, while searching for these found some sexy led fuses that glow when they failed (of the push type, like the green one on winnie's pict). You know if there are some in the glass fuses format? Very handy to have a visual reminder/pointer at some short.

 

midlife

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Winnie, if you find a place with the proper glass fuses with original values here in Holland, let me know. Found and bought many in other values, but 14a the length we need are hard to find. I have only one 15a of this length left over and would love to buy few more.

Midlife, while searching for these found some sexy led fuses that glow when they failed (of the push type, like the green one on winnie's pict). You know if there are some in the glass fuses format? Very handy to have a visual reminder/pointer at some short.
Never seen glass LED fuses.  I also don't use the 15 amp glass fuses but instead use the 20 amp.  I go by what is called out on the fuse box, not what's in the Shop Manual.  If a short circuit is going to blow a 15 amp fuse, it certainly will blow a 20 amp fuse.  Wasn't there a Rolling Stones song about blowing a 50 amp fuse? :whistling:

 

midlife

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Sorry...I mis-read the road-side assistance as being extracted from the illustration. The figure is pretty accurate.

 

Vinnie

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Winnie, if you find a place with the proper glass fuses with original values here in Holland, let me know. Found and bought many in other values, but 14a the length we need are hard to find. I have only one 15a of this length left over and would love to buy few more.

Midlife, while searching for these found some sexy led fuses that glow when they failed (of the push type, like the green one on winnie's pict). You know if there are some in the glass fuses format? Very handy to have a visual reminder/pointer at some short.
Are these too long?

- https://www.rsb-parts.de/modell-1965/elektrik/schalter-relais-innenraum/2263/glassicherung-14-ampere-satz-5-stueck?c=3771

 

midlife

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Winnie, if you find a place with the proper glass fuses with original values here in Holland, let me know. Found and bought many in other values, but 14a the length we need are hard to find. I have only one 15a of this length left over and would love to buy few more.

Midlife, while searching for these found some sexy led fuses that glow when they failed (of the push type, like the green one on winnie's pict). You know if there are some in the glass fuses format? Very handy to have a visual reminder/pointer at some short.
Are these too long?

- https://www.rsb-parts.de/modell-1965/elektrik/schalter-relais-innenraum/2263/glassicherung-14-ampere-satz-5-stueck?c=3771
Those are 27mm long, the 14 SFE fuses are 1 1/16" or 26.978mm.  I think they are the right length.

 

Fabrice

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Because that fusebox is not friendly for my back and also because I forget what I've just looked at within the next 2 mins.

Here's a draft of a (gym free) recap of the fuses layout.



Compared it with my spare fuses, and I miss the #7 (20a in this length, and the #3 4a)

I need buy new spare 14a's or 15a's in length of 2,4,5, but these I can find.

So its about finding 3 and 7 in the right length with similar or slightly greater values.

EDIT: I can find 7 over here, assuming its 32mm

https://www.rdae.nl/zekeringen-en-zekeringhouders/zekeringen/glaszekeringen/glaszekeringen-63-x-32-mm/

 
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Vinnie

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Lucky me, my car doesn't need 7 ;-)

And the broken fuse nr 4 that we took out and replaced was a 30A fuse! Should only be 14...

I'll be collecting a bag of fuses when my next salary comes in :)

 

Fabrice

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Lucky me, my car doesn't need 7 ;-)
Same, my 73 has all the fuses in place. But as I've heard not long ago that you can be forced to stay on the side of the road if you don't have spares with you. :) 

So I want a full extra set in the car.

 

midlife

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Fuse #5 is 30 amps if you have Air Conditioning.

 

Fabrice

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Fuse #5 is 30 amps if you have Air Conditioning.
ah yes good catch! 

Added more info from manual as well. Gonna print and save the spare fuses with it.



 

Vinnie

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Last night I tried to losen the fuse box to have better access to it. So I undid the one bolt I could find but:

1) With the bolt loose, I wasn't able to remove the box (didn't wanna try and pull harder at the time)

2) The bolt was spring loaded.

Is undoing that one bolt enough to be able to remove the box? Why is that bolt spring loaded?

 

EBSTANG

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Because that fusebox is not friendly for my back and also because  I forget what I've just looked at within the next 2 mins.

Here's a draft of a (gym free) recap of the fuses layout.



Compared it with my spare fuses, and I miss the #7 (20a in this length, and the #3 4a)

I need buy new spare 14a's or 15a's in length of 2,4,5, but these I can find.

So its about finding 3 and 7 in the right length with similar or slightly greater values.

EDIT: I can find 7 over here, assuming its 32mm

https://www.rdae.nl/zekeringen-en-zekeringhouders/zekeringen/glaszekeringen/glaszekeringen-63-x-32-mm/
I like your diagram Fabrice! I made one a few years ago for the same reasons...

I printed it, cut it down to minimum size, covered it in packing tape and keep it in the glove box just incase. It would be almost impossible to read the lettering on the fuse box on the side of the road. It also helps to direct your attention to the correct fuse when trying to diagnose a problem.



 
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Here are some picture with the dash removed during detailing. You are correct the one bolt in the center of the fuse block is what holds it together. There are lots of pin connections so it does not come apart easily. I cleaned all of them with steel wool before going back together.

If you are going to do much work under the dash easier to pull the seat out so you can lay on your back or pull the entire dash out. I added cowl insulation and cleaned all the raw steel parts in molasses tank before going back together. Also wrapped the wire harness with new no stick tape and cleaned all connections and grounds. New heater core and cleaned up everything.

David

















 

midlife

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The bolt in question does not come fully out; only enough to release the green connector of the headlight harness.

 
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