aftermarket center bezel mods and blower motor replace

[Johnny57]

I like to do videos of repairing/replacing stuff on my mustangs. Especially if I couldn't find any vids up already. So here is the center console bezel removal without breaking it instructions, (hopefully) what mods needs to be done to the aftermarket center bezel, so you don't break it too. And also a verbal description of how to replace the blower motor in the heating/AC unit.
https://youtu.be/dfGl-7NSHxY

 

[Steve McMahan]

You should post these in the Tutorial section.

 

[Bobby]

I like to do videos of repairing/replacing stuff on my mustangs. Especially if I couldn't find any vids up already. So here is the center console bezel removal without breaking it instructions, (hopefully) what mods needs to be done to the aftermarket center bezel, so you don't break it too. And also a verbal description of how to replace the blower motor in the heating/AC unit.
https://youtu.be/dfGl-7NSHxY

Thanks for posting that video. It confirmed a few things for me. 1: Classic Auto Air has a few idiots working there. 2. The blower motor they supplied for my A/C unit was for a heater only setup and that I did have to reverse polarity and ground the red wire and connect the common to the 12v switch leg to get it to turn in the correct rotation to move air and… 3. The RPMs are lower in the heater motor than in the A/C motor so the supplied heater motor doesn’t move the air with any force thru the ducts. I called CAA to complain about the motor and was promptly blown off and was told by that kid that cars in the 70s didn’t have very powerful blowers. I almost couldn’t get a word in. Course he thought very highly of himself as l could tell by his tone. My issues could have been settled right then and there but there was no dealing with that *****. Anyway thanks for the post!

 

[Johnny57]

Thanks for posting that video. It confirmed a few things for me. 1: Classic Auto Air has a few idiots working there. 2. The blower motor they supplied for my A/C unit was for a heater only setup and that I did have to reverse polarity and ground the red wire and connect the common to the 12v switch leg to get it to turn in the correct rotation to move air and… 3. The RPMs are lower in the heater motor than in the A/C motor so the supplied heater motor doesn’t move the air with any force thru the ducts. I called CAA to complain about the motor and was promptly blown off and was told by that kid that cars in the 70s didn’t have very powerful blowers. I almost couldn’t get a word in. Course he thought very highly of himself as l could tell by his tone. My issues could have been settled right then and there but there was no dealing with that *****. Anyway thanks for the post!

It is so much harder thee days to get the right parts. The kids just don't have the background, only "the book".
Your car is a beauty!

 

[Bobby]

It is so much harder thee days to get the right parts. The kids just don't have the background, only "the book".
Your car is a beauty!

Thanks!

 

[swice]

The original heater/ac blower is notorious for squealing, most post suggest replacing the blower, and usually aftermarket blowers are poor quality chinese knockoffs. I experimented by using the air vent opening on the blower motor housing infusing different lubricants (I simply found an inexpensive pump with a small 2 foot tube that I could work into the blower under the dash, it's not hard once one works their hand to the blower motor and feels the vent opening on top of the blower), I found that 1/4 cup of Ford F type transmission fluid kills the squeal and immediately the motor is incredibly quiet and factory strong. I did this over a year ago on my "73 and I use it everyday. The smell of transmission fluid went away after a couple days.

 

[Johnny57]

The original heater/ac blower is notorious for squealing, most post suggest replacing the blower, and usually aftermarket blowers are poor quality chinese knockoffs. I experimented by using the air vent opening on the blower motor housing infusing different lubricants (I simply found an inexpensive pump with a small 2 foot tube that I could work into the blower under the dash, it's not hard once one works their hand to the blower motor and feels the vent opening on top of the blower), I found that 1/4 cup of Ford F type transmission fluid kills the squeal and immediately the motor is incredibly quiet and factory strong. I did this over a year ago on my "73 and I use it everyday. The smell of transmission fluid went away after a couple days.

Interesting idea!

 

[Bobby]

The original heater/ac blower is notorious for squealing, most post suggest replacing the blower, and usually aftermarket blowers are poor quality chinese knockoffs. I experimented by using the air vent opening on the blower motor housing infusing different lubricants (I simply found an inexpensive pump with a small 2 foot tube that I could work into the blower under the dash, it's not hard once one works their hand to the blower motor and feels the vent opening on top of the blower), I found that 1/4 cup of Ford F type transmission fluid kills the squeal and immediately the motor is incredibly quiet and factory strong. I did this over a year ago on my "73 and I use it everyday. The smell of transmission fluid went away after a couple days.

Sewing machine oil or gun oil works also but without the smell!

 

[BushwackerBob]

The original heater/ac blower is notorious for squealing, most post suggest replacing the blower, and usually aftermarket blowers are poor quality chinese knockoffs. I experimented by using the air vent opening on the blower motor housing infusing different lubricants (I simply found an inexpensive pump with a small 2 foot tube that I could work into the blower under the dash, it's not hard once one works their hand to the blower motor and feels the vent opening on top of the blower), I found that 1/4 cup of Ford F type transmission fluid kills the squeal and immediately the motor is incredibly quiet and factory strong. I did this over a year ago on my "73 and I use it everyday. The smell of transmission fluid went away after a couple days.

Thanks for this info. I'm going to try this before I try to yank my blower.

 

[midlife]

Thanks for this info. I'm going to try this before I try to yank my blower.

Please: this is a family-oriented forum!

 

[swice]

Interesting idea!

It works, I just hate it when I see someone changing the blower out, I had ordered from WCC the blower out of a wreck, and never used it, I sent it back as after about a year as it was apparent I would never need it. Prior to using the F type transmission oil, the squeal was so loud that I had little hope of anything- but replacing would help. I really encourage anyone with this issue to try this, it's a very inexpensive solution! What gave me the idea was I was having an antique grandfather's clock repaired, the older guy was using F type transmission oil in trace amounts to lubricate the clock movement, I asked him why, and he said that there was no better lubricant, and I thought, wait a minute....

 

[swice]

Thanks for this info. I'm going to try this before I try to yank my blower.

It works, I just hate it when I see someone changing the blower out, I had ordered from WCC the blower out of a wreck, and never used it, I sent it back as after about a year as it was apparent I would never need it. Prior to using the F type transmission oil, the squeal was so loud that I had little hope of anything- but replacing would help. I really encourage anyone with this issue to try this, it's a very inexpensive solution! What gave me the idea was I was having an antique grandfather's clock repaired, the older guy was using F type transmission oil in trace amounts to lubricate the clock movement, I asked him why, and he said that there was no better lubricant, and I thought, wait a minute....

 

[moparbrian]

Can you post a pic of where you applied the oil? Mine is squealing like a pig.

 

[mrgmhale]

For our two 73 Mustangs I replaced the mini full length center console ash trays with a set of fabricated power panels. The power panels each have two 12 volt outlets, a dual port USB outlet, and a digital voltage display. They are powered off a tap on the fuse block for fuse-protected, switched power, not full time power. At the front of the console, hidden under it, I have power outlets for the DashCam and the GPS/Backup Camera display units. I used a Garmin Drive 51 GPS unit with the optional wireless backup camera, plus a 2nd front end camera. It all worked out very nicely.

Our vertical center bezel did not have the analog gauges from the factory. Our original Mustangs' center vertical bezel were Plain Jane units. They now have center A/C outlets from the Classic A/C kits installed after we purchased them. As the original instrument panels are ***** light laden we install Dakota VHX analog gauge panels in both, which really turned out nice.

Here is a YouTube video to supplement the photos attached.