Alignment Q?

[EdM]

I have read many threads on the topic here and elsewhere. Here is my situation. My car is a 73 Mach 1 with a SorT coil over front suspension, Opentracker roller idler, Moog steering parts and a rebuilt quick ratio steering box by Power Steering Services. All parts have 3800 miles on them. I worked with my local shop to land on the attached final alignment. My issue is about zero return to center which I would like to correct. What would you do?

SoT recommends the following for the street:
Camber: 0 to - 1/2 degree
Caster: 3 - 5 degrees
Toe at 1/16" to 1/8".

Opentracker recommends the following for Sport:
Camber: -.5 to -1.5 degrees
Caster: 2.5 - 4.5 degrees
Toe at 1/8"

 

[Sheriff41]

Does your car sit level front to rear?

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have basically the same set up as you have and it turned out to be a bad steering box. After replacing it I have had no issues. Mine would almost feel like the wheels were laying over during a turn. Also make sure your tie rods are adjusted about the same. Sometimes frontend shops will only adjust from one side. This will bring the car into alignment but also could cause other issues. Also was the steering box centered turn to turn when installed?

 

[basstrix]

Your alignment numbers look good. Seems to have plenty of positive caster. What is the history on your steering box? Has the Sector Shaft Preload been adjusted, is it rebuilt, etc ?

I recently rebuilt my front end and wasn't happy with the return to center (RtC) with +3 caster. The RtC improved when I replaced the rubber bushing style Idler with a bearing style. Since then, I've noticed that RtC is good at the beginning of taking the car for a drive....but gets worse the farther I drive....I'm puzzled, but have steering box in the mix of possible root causes.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

With those alignment specs which shows you have ample positive caster I would suspect the steering box. The preload may be set too tight or the box is tired.

Ron

 

[Hemikiller]

I'm thinking steering box as well. My first Lares box had nearly three times the max preload of factory spec. The second one was spot on and steers nicely.

 

[EdM]

Prior to install, the steering box turned quite readily. I'll drive as it is though I want to lower the front 1/2" or so.

 

[basstrix]

Prior to install, the steering box turned quite readily. I'll drive as it is though I want to lower the front 1/2" or so.

Was the wheel returning to center prior to the install? Do you know what the alignment specs were prior to the install?

 

[Bentworker]

Prior to install, the steering box turned quite readily. I'll drive as it is though I want to lower the front 1/2" or so.

Readily by the steering wheel or by grabbing the rag joint on the steering box? The steering wheel provides enough leverage to mask a preload issue.

 

[EdM]

Readily by the steering wheel or by grabbing the rag joint on the steering box? The steering wheel provides enough leverage to mask a preload issue.

Working it on my bench. I have no idea on alignment prior to the coil over install as the suspension was trash.

The company that did the quick ratio build has been around a while. I went with the 12.7:1 ratio.

https://www.powersteering.com/powergearboxrebuilds#GMSAGINAW

 

[basstrix]

I'm thinking steering box as well. My first Lares box had nearly three times the max preload of factory spec. The second one was spot on and steers nicely.

When you say factory spec, are you referring to the specs in the Ford Service Manual or does Lares have a a published spec (and procedure, for that matter)?

I see that Lares has a limited lifetime warranty. Did they replace yours at no cost? I would assume you had to R&R the GB?

 

[Hemikiller]

I went by the preload specs in the factory shop manual. IIRC, mine measured 35 or 36 in-lb over the center.

I warrantied my Lares box through Rock Auto where I purchased it. They refunded the original purchase price and covered the return shipping. They also gave me a $200 credit to cover the core charge, as I theoretically no longer had one to turn in when I purchased another box. I R&R'd my gear box, doubtful they'd pay to have it done as it wasn't sold to an actual repair shop. If you paid a shop to install it and they bought the part, then they likely could submit a labor claim with the supplier. We used to do that with NAPA back when I turned wrenches for a living.