Anyone running an Edelbrock Torker II???

[turtle5353]

Just wondering if anyone is running an Edelbrock torker II on their Cleveland?? The place im buying my AFD heads off of reconmending using the torker intake for my setup. It seems kinda tall just wondering if anyone else is running one??? Wonder if i will have any problems with hood clearance?? Not planning on running the ram air anytime soon so not worried about that. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks Kevin

 

[droptop73]

It depends on what you want from the engine. A single plane intake like the torker moves the RPM range higher (all other things being equal). A dual plane manifold generally has more low end power. If your main usage is going to be street driving I would advise against the torker.

 

[turtle5353]

With the heads im running they are suppose to give you alot more low end torque than the factory 4v heads. i will have to epoxy the runners of the intake to match the AFD4v heads. And this is one of the intakes they reconmended i run. They also said about the blue thunder intake, but they are hard to find. I am running a 3000 stall converter and 373 gears so the intake may match my power curve fairly well.

 

[71stang99]

With the heads im running they are suppose to give you alot more low end torque than the factory 4v heads. i will have to epoxy the runners of the intake to match the AFD4v heads. And this is one of the intakes they reconmended i run. They also said about the blue thunder intake, but they are hard to find. I am running a 3000 stall converter and 373 gears so the intake may match my power curve fairly well.

I had one with a Holley on my old 351C and it wasnt the best setup for my car. It came with it though so with the new motor I put on the performer and switch to a 670 Avenger, seems like the 'newer' intake that is getting some positive feedback is the performer air gap.

 

[TommyK]

I ran a torker on a mild 4V engine with a 214/224 cam, 2800 stall converter, 670 SA and 3.70 gears and it ran well. It is a good inexpensive 4V manifold. It fit under a standard hood with a drop base air cleaner so hood clearance with a NASA hood shouldn't be an issue with the right base. You can usually get a used Torker for about $125. I would try it and keep an eye out for a Blue Thunder if you think it lacks bottom end. I have a feeling you won't. I eventually switched to a Blue Thunder and the bottom end was a little better but not night and day.

In dyno testing by Dan Jones and Dave McClain the Blue Thunder was unimpressive out of the box. However, the manifold benefits greatly from some massaging with a grinder. Dave McClain at McClain's Automotive Service in Cuba Mo. can do this. It is worth up to 40 hp.

The suggestion of the Edelbrock air gap is a good one. Be advised though that if you like to drive in cold weather the cold blooded nature of the air gap design can exhibit driveability issues.

HTH

 

[c9zx]

TommyK's post is on target. The mods for the Blue Thunder are easily done. I've never had a set of AFD or CHI heads so I have no first hand experience with them. However, as I understand it, the port in the AFD head is raised some amount and the Ed 351C heads are based on the Ford 351C-2V port. Edelbrock says the Air Gap will work on 2V or 4V heads. The roof of the 2V port is lower than the 4V port. So the port mis-match of the AFD heads and the Air Gap intake could be at the top and the bottom of the port. Roy may be able to bring first hand experience to the conversation since he has the AFD heads. As far as the Torquer goes, I ran them on stock displacement 351Cs that we were turning over 7000 with deep gears that worked fine on the street. With the extra displacement and the AFD heads the torque should be abundant, perhaps too much with street tires. So, bleeding off some torque at the bottom and gaining so top end power may be a good thing. A lot depends on how you want to use the car, how much RPM you want to turn, and you personal definition of streetable. The epoxy in the intake is easy to work. Getting and keeping good adhesion was always the tricky part. I've used Devcon products in the past. However, a lot of people recommend a Z-Spar product called A-788 coated with a red sealer. It is supposed to be impervious to gasoline and oil but I don't know how it reacts with alcohol. Keep us updated on the 408 build. Chuck

 

[TommyK]

TommyK's post is on target. The mods for the Blue Thunder are easily done. I've never had a set of AFD or CHI heads so I have no first hand experience with them. However, as I understand it, the port in the AFD head is raised some amount and the Ed 351C heads are based on the Ford 351C-2V port. Edelbrock says the Air Gap will work on 2V or 4V heads. The roof of the 2V port is lower than the 4V port. So the port mis-match of the AFD heads and the Air Gap intake could be at the top and the bottom of the port. Roy may be able to bring first hand experience to the conversation since he has the AFD heads. As far as the Torquer goes, I ran them on stock displacement 351Cs that we were turning over 7000 with deep gears that worked fine on the street. With the extra displacement and the AFD heads the torque should be abundant, perhaps too much with street tires. So, bleeding off some torque at the bottom and gaining so top end power may be a good thing. A lot depends on how you want to use the car, how much RPM you want to turn, and you personal definition of streetable. The epoxy in the intake is easy to work. Getting and keeping good adhesion was always the tricky part. I've used Devcon products in the past. However, a lot of people recommend a Z-Spar product called A-788 coated with a red sealer. It is supposed to be impervious to gasoline and oil but I don't know how it reacts with alcohol. Keep us updated on the 408 build. Chuck

It is often recommended that the epoxy be staked into the port by drilling and tapping some holes for set screws that stick up from the port floor and give the epoxy something to bond to. Never done it myself though.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I'm running a Torker Intake (not the torker II) and with a manual and 3.89 gears, I have no complaints on the low end, except for my incredible lack of traction

 

[turtle5353]

Wow Thanks for all the input guys!! I decided to go ahead and buy a torker intake. I figured if thats what the people selling the heads reconmend for my setup i might as well listen. And thanks for the tips about epoxying the runners. I think I will let the machine shop handle it, while they are building the motor. I did score a nice torker intake on ebay for $75!!! Pretty sweet. After talking to the supplier of the heads and my machine shop they both said i wouldnt have to worry about low end torque especially running the 408 stroker. Extra cubes help out the torque alot.

Another question i had for you guys was, has anyone tried having any parts powder coated clear?? I like the aluminum look of my intake but would like it to stay that way and thought powder coating it clear might work??? Also though of having my aluminum fabbed valve covers cleared to protect them also. Any thoughts??? Thanks again everyone!!!!!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I have heard of it too, but have not tried it. I would be wary, as if it fails, the work to remove and repolish seems excessive

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have alot of stuff powder coated and ceramic coated on mine and have had no issues to this point. I used a product in my runners to match the m to the heads that is supposed to be resistant to oil, gas etc.... not a real big deal. I have not pulled the intake so I cant give you an update if its still there or not.

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

 

[turtle5353]

I have alot of stuff powder coated and ceramic coated on mine and have had no issues to this point. I used a product in my runners to match the m to the heads that is supposed to be resistant to oil, gas etc.... not a real big deal. I have not pulled the intake so I cant give you an update if its still there or not.

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

Thanks for the link. Did you have anything powder coated clear Roy?? Just wondering if it will yellow or not??

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have alot of stuff powder coated and ceramic coated on mine and have had no issues to this point. I used a product in my runners to match the m to the heads that is supposed to be resistant to oil, gas etc.... not a real big deal. I have not pulled the intake so I cant give you an update if its still there or not.

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

Thanks for the link. Did you have anything powder coated clear Roy?? Just wondering if it will yellow or not??

My March Pulley set up is and my gas tank. The pulleys were done at from the factory though