Coming along...... finally, the swap that started it all, the Australian cylinder heads. Previously, the heads were cleaned, magna-fluxed ( crack checked ), and the rocker pedestals were machined down for screw-in studs and guide plates. I just had hardened exhaust seats put in, new guides installed and the valve job roughed in, prior to lapping. After another cleaning, this weekend I spent an afternoon detailing the heads. The detailing included taking my porting die grinder to excessive casting flash and using a few files to break any sharp edges, in and around,the castings. Notice I didn't say "remove" casting flash, which I could very well have done, but the point was simply to remove any sharp edges and prevent any rough casting from breaking off later. Something the machine shop missed, was a broken bolt in a corner exhaust bolt hole. I dealt with that, and now it's good to go. Also, I ran thread chasers through all of the threaded holes in the heads one more time. This is the time to correct any bad threads, not when you're installing the engine. Also note that I have not ported or altered the ports, this is on purpose. The build is focusing on an efficient STREET engine, to which this design head excels, having very strong low and mid range, my trans "wide-open" makes it's shifts at 4000, ( FMX with a Trans-Go re-programming kit, stock converter ). The cam I'm using is a very mild roller ( more on that later ), so I haven't built it with big RPM numbers in mind. Compression, with the dished DSS forged pistons is 9.5:1, and the quench area is what this swap is all about without going to a "racing" head aftermarket casting. Here's a thought which I feel is worth doing......when you have your heads re-surfaced, have your machinist take a skim cut on the exhaust flange side of the head as well. Ford, in their infinite wisdom, machined the exhaust and intake surfaces 90* to the deck, so set-up is a no brainer , and having this surface smooth and flat goes a long way to help ailing exhaust leaks from headers, and when bolting iron manifolds up directly without using gaskets. Four thousandths of an inch was milled from decks and exhaust flanges. the heads were darned flat! Machining the exhaust flange works well on FEs too . Final step prior to assembling the heads is painting the interior surfaces with Glyptal. Keeping the paint off of the spring pad surfaces, removes any chance of the springs wearing away the paint and sending paint fragments into the oil. Next.......