Autopsy started. Pretty sure not supposed to see this.

[scgamecock]

Still hopefull the block and heads are fine after purchasing this.  I am going with either a std or stroked rotating assembly but still getting rods and crank checked.  well a'll but one rod. lollerz   Think the crank jjournal can be turned?

Anything that can't be fixed will be converted to "ma cave" furniture! ::thumb::

 

[Stanglover]

Interesting piece of "art work" for the man-cave wall!! I'd mount that like you see it. It's amazing the rest of the engine did not grenade.

I noticed in your picture of the block, it dose not have the infamous "hole" near the distributor, but dose have rear oil drain holes. Just wondering what the block ID letter is? I also notice that the 4 center holes are way bigger than the 1970 "J" block I had and it had both front and rear oil return holes. see pic. Hind sight, I should have kept that block, sold it in favour of an "L" block that turned out to be cracked and NFG.

 

[nailpounder]

Still hopefull the block and heads are fine after purchasing this.  I am going with either a std or stroked rotating assembly but still getting rods and crank checked.  well a'll but one rod. lollerz   Think the crank jjournal can be turned?

Anything that can't be fixed will be converted to "ma cave" furniture! ::thumb::

i have some J-B WELD works wonders 

 

[Stanglover]

Okay, so I'm the village idiot............ today anyways! Looking at your past post, I realized that is the 460 you were talking about, not a 351. How could I miss THAT!! Mind you, both the 429/460 and the 351C are very similar engines in many ways are they not?

again though, a nice piece of wall-art. How about casting it all in liquid acrylic!

 

[scgamecock]

where is the block number?  What is the better block to have?  I see some others differences between yours and mine.  the hole I am pointing at is on the back wall.  the bolt you see in it now is the engine stand.  What is the hole for?  I assume I just screw a plug into it?  Whatis the hump with the pipe plug in it for?

Anything look special about the remaiming 7 piston?  What about the remaining rods is there anything that could be special about them?





animated gif hosting

 

[Stanglover]

AS said, I had to eat "Humble Pie". Mine is a 351C J block, not a 460. Different animal, but with similarities. No idea where the numbers are on that block, but must be there somewhere. Look above the starter location. 351's have the info cast there, maybe 460's do too. Out of my comfort zone now, sorry for any confusion,

Geoff.

 

[secluff]

scgamecock, that collection of wall art you pulled out of your oil pan reminds me what I did to a 390 GT years ago. The block ID # for your 460 will be on the right rear of the block near the starter location similar to the 351C. It will run vertically on the block and should be easy to read. The bump at the rear of the lifter valley my friends called a "Camel Hump". That is part of the oil cross over passage from the passenger oil galley to the driver oil galley. Been a while since I had my 429 but I remember of the several hex plugs, some were flat on the bottom and some pointed, and I was told by our shop 429/460 expert to not mix them up!

 

[scgamecock]

Finished the tear down. The crank is definitely shot.

Can someone tell me what this block is? I can't find an A23 reference.

 

[midlife]

Bah! A little crocus paper, some elbow grease, and it'll be good as new!

 

[TommyK]

The block is a garden variety 460 passenger car block for an internally balanced rotating assembly. Provided the bores clean up it is a good foundation. The date code is stamped in the lifter valley. I can see it in one of your pictures but I can't read it. Looks like the first digit is 8? if so it was cast in 1978.

 

[secluff]

Bah! A little crocus paper, some elbow grease, and it'll be good as new!

Midlife, I believe you'll be able to save scgamecock a bunch of money. Lots of WD-40, crocus cloth, and ton of elbow grease and that ought to clean right up! You are defiantly a good go to Answer Cat! [emoji78][emoji1303]

 

[scgamecock]

LOL!!!  Ok let's be clear.  I am not using anything but the block and heads. Welllll maybe oil pump if I can JB Weld it back together! lollerz ::thumb::

If block is fine I will bore, square and line hone.  then I will either go stock or stroked rotating assembly.  For the heads they already have been machined and have screw in studs with guides.  Going with new valves and cam matched springs.  Going to do basic port, polish and gasket matching.

For the "jigsaw puzzle" I am going to breakout the welder and put my limited artistic talent to work.  Who knows what it will look like but will be cool!!!

For the crank I am going to figure out how to make a table lamp.  Then sneak it in the living room to annoy my wife!!!  At least temporarily  rofl

 

[Stanglover]

LOL!!!  Ok let's be clear.  I am not using anything but the block and heads. Welllll maybe oil pump if I can JB Weld it back together! lollerz ::thumb::

If block is fine I will bore, square and line hone.  then I will either go stock or stroked rotating assembly.  For the heads they already have been machined and have screw in studs with guides.  Going with new valves and cam matched springs.  Going to do basic port, polish and gasket matching.

For the "jigsaw puzzle" I am going to breakout the welder and put my limited artistic talent to work.  Who knows what it will look like but will be cool!!!

For the crank I am going to figure out how to make a table lamp.  Then sneak it in the living room to annoy my wife!!!  At least temporarily  rofl

 If I were you, I'd send that block in for a crack and pressure test before spending another nickel on it, other than the cost of the testing. When I found my 351C "L" block was cracked and welded, I got a quote from my engine shop which was around $400 Can. That's why I decided to eat the 100 it cost me in the first place.

 

[Boss1Ray]

Finished the tear down. The crank is definitely shot.

Can someone tell me what this block is? I can't find an A23 reference.

Looks like it is an A2B block.

https://itstillruns.com/d1ve-engine-block-specifications-7886541.html

Ray