B-Pillar Interference

[kcmash]

Good afternoon everyone. I tried to put the new 1/4 window seals on my car at the top of the B-pillar(the vertical post behind the door with the door strike in it.)

Anyway, the screw heads from the seal interfere with to door when I install this piece. Anyone else have this problem or have a solution for me?

 

[kcmash]

Good afternoon everyone. I tried to put the new 1/4 window seals on my car at the top of the B-pillar(the vertical post behind the door with the door strike in it.)

Anyway, the screw heads from the seal interfere with to door when I install this piece. Anyone else have this problem or have a solution for me?

OK, I just gave it a second look. Even with NO seals in the door jamb, the screw heads will hit the B-pillar and scratch the paint. So can you guys with finished cars tell me how wide your door gap is at the back of the door? Thanks!

 

[piper62j]

The screws should be flat with the x-point head. The x-point should be sunk into the head so that the entire top of the screw in basically flat. If after installing the screws, there remains no clearance, adjust the door forward to increase the gap between the pillar and door.

Not knowing the condition of your vehicle,, door hinges,, body sag, quarter panel repair / replacement etc., the above explanation should help you get the clearance you need.

 

[cudak888]

Does this help?

Nov. 1971 Metuchen build, factory door and quarter:

July 1972 Dearborn build, factory door and quarter (quite the variance, but the car is not sagging - door is a bit too far backwards):

Same July 1972 Dearborn build from the other side; factory door and factory C-pillar, but a skin (made from an original quarter, apparently) from the beltline down:

All of these close without interference. This is what the heads look like from factory:

-Kurt

 

[kcmash]

Does this help?

Nov. 1971 Metuchen build, factory door and quarter:

July 1972 Dearborn build, factory door and quarter (quite the variance, but the car is not sagging - door is a bit too far backwards):

Same July 1972 Dearborn build from the other side; factory door and factory C-pillar, but a skin (made from an original quarter, apparently) from the beltline down:

All of these close without interference. This is what the heads look like from factory:

-Kurt

Kurt, you are always a help! Can you slap a ruler on those gaps and give me a measure in inches or millimeters.

Yep, 1/4s and doors have been replaced, so I am kinda starting over. I have the correct screws that came off of these doors. I'm thinking they need to take a trip forward about an 1/8th to 1/4 inch to clear all the seals. No front clip installed yet, so the car can grow in length!

 

[cudak888]

Kurt, you are always a help! Can you slap a ruler on those gaps and give me a measure in inches or millimeters.
Yep, 1/4s and doors have been replaced, so I am kinda starting over. I have the correct screws that came off of these doors. I'm thinking they need to take a trip forward about an 1/8th to 1/4 inch to clear all the seals. No front clip installed yet, so the car can grow in length!

I'll get you the gap measurements tomorrow, but I'd say that a safe margin is somewhere in between the two. The '71 has unusually large gaps at the top, and the '72 a bit on the narrow side (even though it isn't sagging - strangely enough).

Wouldn't it be better to guesstimate the door jamb clearances from edge to edge?

-Kurt