Bearing kit for clutch pedal

[tony-muscle]

Part of my upgrades this winter is installing a 5-speed manual in my auto car. I am in the process of installing the clutch pedal using the bearing kit from Scott Drake. Now I have the pedal bracket out. However, the opening for the clutch pedal is oblong. Thus the bearing can move within the hole. That said, I guess I will have to tack it in place. If that's the case, then where should I place it? In the middle, towards the back or front? Has anyone have similar issues? Or doesn't matter?

 

[Stanglover]

When I did my upgrade to bearings, I bought from Mustang Steve. That kit uses sealed ball bearings, not open roller type. I can't comment on the quality or fitment of the SD kit.

As for placement, and as you're changing from auto to manual, you can't measure the center distance from the brake pin to the clutch pin location, so it is a bit of a guess. BUT if you aim to center on you existing hole, there should be no issues. I honestly can't remember if I enlarged that hole or not and I have no pictures either.

What I found I needed to do was to compensate for the slight off angle of the bracket, i.e. the side are not parallel to each other. It required grinding each of the bearing retainers to compensate for this. You will need to VERY CAREFULLY set the bearing retainers, bearings and shaft and make sure it is all straight and true before welding the retainers in place. If you're not up to welding, get someone who can do it for you. This needs to be done right the first time.

Good luck with your conversion and please let us know who it turns out,

Geoff.

 

[73pony]

I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 

[Stanglover]

I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

 

[tony-muscle]

I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

Yes, Scott Drake's is different than Mustang Steve's in that the bearings are needle and have no inner carrier. See this sheet for pictures:

file:///C:/Users/Antoine/Downloads/IS-2478-RB%20Clutch%20Pedal%20Roller%20Bearing%20Online.pdf

 

[73pony]

I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

I have the scott drake kit. was a conversion from Auto to Manual. Not sure I would say the clips were easy. I did this without removing my pedal assembly. Instead I turned myself into a pretzel and installed while in the car. Can I just say those clips hurt when they get loose from the little pliers and are flying at you.

 

[johnwanzel]

I used the Scott Drake kit as well. I had to find the best position for the shaft and bearings. Once I found that sweet spot in the bracket, I tack welded it in place. Then fitted it again to ensure no bind on the shaft. Then disassembled it all and bead welded it to the support bracket. Works great. I did the American powertrain hydraulic clutch conversion at the same time.

 

[Stanglover]

I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

I have the scott drake kit. was a conversion from Auto to Manual. Not sure I would say the clips were easy. I did this without removing my pedal assembly. Instead I turned myself into a pretzel and installed while in the car. Can I just say those clips hurt when they get loose from the little pliers and are flying at you.

 Interesting to know the difference. Yes I do see that with clips, it's an easier install. I'll have to check them out for my own knowledge.

 When I did mine, I as also installing the power booster up-grade and for that, I removed the column as well as the bracket. Mine is a manual from the start.

 

[tony-muscle]

I ended up tacking it at the farthest forward location. At that point, when the brake and clutch are depressed, they are at a pretty close angle.

I used the circlips, but I was not able to fit the spring washer in between. Either the groove of the circlip is off, or something is thicker. This was even after I ground any edge imperfections. I ended up tacking the washer on the outside and the flange of the bearing on the inside to keep all from moving.

I am glad I took the pedal bracket out. It not only made the job much easier, but I was able to paint the bracket. This was also a good chance to check and clean up all the wires running under the dash. Plus I had to remove the steering column and brake booster anyways. I am replacing the brake booster and also replacing the steering column to firewall gasket. And while I was at it, I welded one of the studs that hold the ignition switch to the column that had sheared off last year. And while I was at it, I am replacing the brake line to the rear (the only one I had not replaced) and the fuel vapor line, which I use as a fuel return line. And lastly, while I am at it, I will be replacing all the plastic bushings, grommets, washers and seals related to the brakes and steering.

Tacked washer on exterior of bracket:



Tacked bearing flange on interior of bracket:

 

[Stanglover]

Tony, got a picture of the completed assembly after painting? ............ while you're at it!!

Wish I'd taken pics of mine when it was out, but I tend to just want to get it done!

For sure you'll be glad you did this mod as it will make clutch operation much easier. That's what I found anyways.

 

[tony-muscle]

Tony, got a picture of the completed assembly after painting? ............ while you're at it!!

Wish I'd taken pics of mine when it was out, but I tend to just want to get it done!

For sure you'll be glad you did this mod as it will make clutch operation much easier. That's what I found anyways.

Here we go. This was a quick paint 





for protection.

 

[tony-muscle]

While we are talking about this, I see in the schematics that there are some bushings and washers at the bottom end of the steering column. Are these easy to replace? Is there anything that I should inspect or replace while I have the column out? I don't want to rebuild the whole thing, but only whatever is easy to replace short of dissembling the whole thing. I don't want to open that can of worms now.

 

[Stanglover]

I could be out of line, but to ask the question, did you check the total outer dimension of the bearings in relation to the clutch pedal shaft length? With the big washers plus the bearing, it look to be quite wide. Why I say that is because on my conversion using Mustang Steves' set-up, I needed to turn .030" off each the bearing holders plus grind them to compensate for the draw angle on the bracket. i.e. the bracket side were not parallel top to bottom if that makes sense. I did not add any washers to the outside. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I was working on a 71 factory 4 speed car.

On the diagram that came with my kit, the clutch pedal and brake pedal pivot on the same shaft. Not so on the 71-73's. The brake pivots from a bolt through the two small holes rear of the clutch pivot. ( I just checked on my car, couldn't quite remember!!) I also came up with a total assembled width of 3.500" including a couple of shims needed to allow free movement of the bearings. I realize this could be very different to the SD version, but at the end of the day, the shaft length is the same.

To be honest, I could have very easily made my own bearing set-up knowing what I know now and kinda wish I had.

Another question, what linkage system are you going to use for the clutch? Are you going with hydraulic or cable as I doubt you'll be going the factory Z bar route. Also you'll have no reverse shift lock either.

I hope I'm not being too critical, but I've found it all too easy to overlook something simple and have to redo things. Or is that just me that F's up!!

Please let us know how it works out.

Geoff.

 

[tony-muscle]

I could be out of line, but to ask the question, did you check the total outer dimension of the bearings in relation to the clutch pedal shaft length? With the big washers plus the bearing, it look to be quite wide. Why I say that is because on my conversion using Mustang Steves' set-up, I needed to turn .030" off each the bearing holders plus grind them to compensate for the draw angle on the bracket. i.e. the bracket side were not parallel top to bottom if that makes sense. I did not add any washers to the outside. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I was working on a 71 factory 4 speed car.

On the diagram that came with my kit, the clutch pedal and brake pedal pivot on the same shaft. Not so on the 71-73's. The brake pivots from a bolt through the two small holes rear of the clutch pivot. ( I just checked on my car, couldn't quite remember!!) I also came up with a total assembled width of 3.500" including a couple of shims needed to allow free movement of the bearings. I realize this could be very different to the SD version, but at the end of the day, the shaft length is the same.

To be honest, I could have very easily made my own bearing set-up knowing what I know now and kinda wish I had.

Another question, what linkage system are you going to use for the clutch? Are you going with hydraulic or cable as I doubt you'll be going the factory Z bar route. Also you'll have no reverse shift lock either.

I hope I'm not being too critical, but I've found it all too easy to overlook something simple and have to redo things. Or is that just me that F's up!!

Please let us know how it works out.

Geoff.

Point well taken. I had tested before welding and it fits well, at least I hope. 

See pictures. 

For clutch linkage I am using Modern Driveline's clutch cable kit. I know is in the expensive side, but with so much work I am doing in the car I didn't want to deal with one more item to worry about. http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/1971-73_Mustang-Cable-Clutch-Conversion.htm

 

[Stanglover]

Looks good Tony!

The link to Modern Driveline's web page on the installation is very helpful and informative. I note though, that a compatible bell housing is required and that alone makes it a bigger and more expensive task if just adding to an existing 4 speed. Having said that, If it were not for the fact my car needs to "look right", I'd install the cable set-up as well. The Z bar and linkage design leave a lot to be desired, in other words a crap set-up all around. The bearings helped big time with pedal effort on a diaphragm style clutch, but could be way better. Hydraulic would be perfect, but not for me.

I'd love to install a 5 speed, but again, for the amount of driving I do and the fact it's a numbers car, I can't justify it. Funny thing is, I can't count the number of times I've tried shifting to "Fifth" only to grab a handful of air!!

Hope to hear how it all works out when done,

Geoff.

 

[Boss1Ray]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I am looking to do this bearing pedal support mod soon. If anyone has anything to add - please do.

Mustang Steve vs Scott Drake type????

Ray

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hi,

I am doing this swap, usiing the SD C5ZZ-2478-RB bearing kit.

I can't use the circlips as the surface of the pedak bracket is not flat, I will post pics this week to explain it.

 

[droptop73]

I used the retrofit pedal from Modern Driveline and fabricated mechanical clutch linkage. 8 years of heavy use later and no issues. I do plan to check the bearings and welds this winter. I probably have 40-50k on the conversion at this point.

Ray, any questions you have, let me know my friend.

 

[tony-muscle]

Hi,

I am doing this swap, usiing the SD C5ZZ-2478-RB bearing kit.

I can't use the circlips as the surface of the pedak bracket is not flat, I will post pics this week to explain it.

I had trouble using the circlips with the spring washer. I ended up tacking it so it didnt matter.
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