building a 351c 4v on a budget!

[OMS]

thats a great offer ill let you know! would a crank from a 351 2v work? i have one of those also i wanna start calling around to local machine shops to get some prices but i dont wanna sound like an idiot.

They are all the same. 2v and 4v. Where in pa you located?

Cranks are the same size but

There are 4MA stamped cranks for the 4 V cars, they were suppose to be stronger

 

[Paul of MO]

I have never broke a Cleveland crank. Built several for drag racing over the years and always used 2 bolt blocks and 4V open heads with pop up pistons. When I came across 4 bolt blocks or quench heads I always sold them to fund my other projects. Not needed even for racing.

Find a good established local machine shop and have them do a basic street rebuild on what you have (with new valves and bolts). 1500 to 2 grand and you should be ready to roll. You will have a solid 350 hp and can run all day long on the cheap stuff.

Craigslist "351" and you will see that there is always a complete 351 2V engine for sale locally if the machine shop finds an issue with your parts. There is a very rusty 72 351 Cougar for sale in this area for 800.00 that runs, drives, shifts, and stops. No smoke, good compression, needs a tune up and a smaller carb.

Our heavy "bigstangs" will not compete on the street unless you spend well over 5k - so why even try? Take the money you save and put in an agressive rear end gear and enjoy the kick in the pants feeling that you are looking for.

My son is building a cleveland for a 73 vert and between trading parts and keeping it basic he will have less than 900.00 bucks TOTAL in the long block. 4v heads, 4 barrel carb on a stock intake, pertronix ingnition in the stock distibutor, headers and magnaflo exhaust........

He should have around 3K total in the entire drivetrain front to rear and it will last for hundreds of thousands of miles.

He will have a polite 325hp engine that sounds wicked at idle and will be able to roast the rear tires if he thinks he can afford to.

Good luck on you project!

- Paul

 

[87fox72mach]

i plan on building everything myself to save some cash, heads, shortblock etc .whats a good brand of piston to use for a decent price, obvsiouly not going to using nitrous or a blower just want something reliable

 

[c9zx]

i plan on building everything myself to save some cash, heads, shortblock etc .whats a good brand of piston to use for a decent price, obvsiouly not going to using nitrous or a blower just want something reliable

Spend some time with calculators like this http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php before buying pistons. Be aware of considerations such as piston compression distances, piston dish/dome volumes, chamber volumes, and how far down the piston is when it is at top dead center (deck height). Among other things, they all affect static compression ratio. Don't assume all pistons for a 351C have the same basic dimensions. Chuck

 

[Wolverine]

i plan on building everything myself to save some cash, heads, shortblock etc .whats a good brand of piston to use for a decent price, obvsiouly not going to using nitrous or a blower just want something reliable

This is what I purchased for my build: 351C 4V closed chamber, 351CJ/Boss Build, expecting 10.5-11.0 compression: Speed Pro L2379F30 (30= .030 over) $40 each.

I have the equivalent in a 351W with 40k miles. Very solid.

Spend some time with calculators like this http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php before buying pistons. Be aware of considerations such as piston compression distances, piston dish/dome volumes, chamber volumes, and how far down the piston is when it is at top dead center (deck height). Among other things, they all affect static compression ratio. Don't assume all pistons for a 351C have the same basic dimensions. Chuck

Heres how I measure chamber volume:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-i-measured-head-combustion-chamber-volume?pid=64848&highlight=chamber#pid64848

 

[87fox72mach]

so speeed pro is a decent middle of the road brand? i would like to have the motor run off 93 gas, so a basica boss rebuild would be fine with me just want it to sound good with a good thump, and have some good street manors. since the motor is numbers mtching i would likely be using the original block and trans. i have a spare 2v motor and 2 460's which ill probably stuff in something else to make a fast car

 

[Wolverine]

I do not know how to judge middle of the road. It is my understanding this is a good, solid replacement for the original piston. My experience with this piston type/brand in a 351W so far would attest to that. But, I really won't know for another 140k miles.

Do you have original pistons? They have a "button hole" in them. I am looking for a couple to add to my museum.

 

[t.klapperich]

i plan on building everything myself to save some cash, heads, shortblock etc .whats a good brand of piston to use for a decent price, obvsiouly not going to using nitrous or a blower just want something reliable

This is what I purchased for my build: 351C 4V closed chamber, 351CJ/Boss Build, expecting 10.5-11.0 compression: Speed Pro L2379F30 (30= .030 over) $40 each.

Same ones I bought for my build. Speed Pro, Sealed Power and federal mogul. Same part number, same pistons. I ended up with 10.2:1 Runs great on pump gas 93 octane.

I have the equivalent in a 351W with 40k miles. Very solid.

Spend some time with calculators like this http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php before buying pistons. Be aware of considerations such as piston compression distances, piston dish/dome volumes, chamber volumes, and how far down the piston is when it is at top dead center (deck height). Among other things, they all affect static compression ratio. Don't assume all pistons for a 351C have the same basic dimensions. Chuck

Heres how I measure chamber volume:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-i-measured-head-combustion-chamber-volume?pid=64848&highlight=chamber#pid64848

 

[87fox72mach]

to reincarnate a dead thread i spoke to a local engine shop who i have bought three poduction motors for my cars from, i spoke with the guy about my options for a motor rebuild, i said mosly stock with a bump in the cam and 1 piece valves are a must as well as arp rod bolts. he said hed use a comp cam, sealed power pistons at maybe a .20 overbore depending on what my block needs, all machine work (valve job, block etc), balancing etc for a long block 2500-3000k does this sound reasonble? im still going to shop around but the guy was great to work with and its a big reputable shop no a redneck back ally job

 

[jbojo]

to reincarnate a dead thread i spoke to a local engine shop who i have bought three poduction motors for my cars from, i spoke with the guy about my options for a motor rebuild, i said mosly stock with a bump in the cam and 1 piece valves are a must as well as arp rod bolts. he said hed use a comp cam, sealed power pistons at maybe a .20 overbore depending on what my block needs, all machine work (valve job, block etc), balancing etc for a long block 2500-3000k does this sound reasonble? im still going to shop around but the guy was great to work with and its a big reputable shop no a redneck back ally job

Machine work can be expensive. Shop around for deals, they can be found. I was able to pick up a rebuilt C6 and engine for $3500.00 that was rebuilt/balanced with everything needed and never run. The person decided to sell off his project. He even provided me with the receipts for machine work etc. You can see the motor here with the specs.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bojo-s-73-project

Lots of the peices aren't going to be used so I will be selling them shortly, all new and in their boxes.

Here are some of the items that I remember off hand:

Demon Carb

Chromed 1 wire alternator high output

Torker Manifold that was clay extruded and black powered coated

March Pulley set

Some of the brackets that are black powered coated

and more

 

[87fox72mach]

Any more input on whether that price for a rebuil snds fair?

 

[Wolverine]

Any more input on whether that price for a rebuil snds fair?

I paid $1700 to my machine shop for its SERVICE and they supplied the valves(for some reason he loves to buy the valves).

I supplied everything else. All bearing, all pistons, rings, bolts, etc.

Quite frankly, I don't know that I would ever install used pistons. I would really have to trust who I was buying them from. But new $40x8=$320.

I also don't think I would ever install a used cam. I can get an Isky cam for like $150.

Bottom line, probably reasonable high but not outstanding. I think my $1700 was high, but I know the work is top quality. I measured everything and it is amazing how consistent the numbers are, and how they all fall right in the middle of the specs.

 

[wwhite72]

Squaring your block and line honing isnt free, but its the 1st step in a long lasting build.

 

[87fox72mach]

That price of 2800 includes new valves bearings rings pistons head gaskets machining etc only used parts are rods