351 2V ---> 4V

[erikroy57]

hi mustang7173,

i dont have really a budget, and this is not my concern for the moment. im trying to learn how to put parts together to make something works and see what direction i could take

but as previous people said, i think i will stay with my 2V, i already got all the parts anyway.

Trying to put a mix of parts from here and there is not a good idea for a beginner.

 

[73pony]

While I understand hesitation in making changes, keep in mind that a 73 2v motor does not make a lot of power. If you are looking for a power upgrade the stock 73 2v set up is going to leave you disappointed. If you know what you want from the motor and what you have for a tans and rear gear ratio we could better make some suggestions on things like cam, intake, carb, torq converter, etc that would allow you to keep the 2v heads or even move to the 4v heads that you have and reach your goals, but without knowing your goals, gears, trans it is impossible to give suggestions. You are correct in that just throwing random parts at a car does not make sense.

 

[Mister 4x4]

hi mustang7173,

i dont have really a budget, and this is not my concern for the moment. im trying to learn how to put parts together to make something works and see what direction i could take

but as previous people said, i think i will stay with my 2V, i already got all the parts anyway.

Trying to put a mix of parts from here and there is not a good idea for a beginner.

OK - well, here's what I did for my project. I started an Excel spreadsheet with a bunch of columns, the first being the part itself, a quantity column, then several sets of "part number/price" columns (headed by vendors like Summit Racing, OMS, local parts stores, etc.), then a "best price" column (which compared between the vendor columns), then a "subtotal price" column (which added up and plugged into a "Total" column at the bottom of the stack.

After that, I went to my favorite vendors, and started looking up part numbers & prices, then plugged 'em into the spreadsheet.

I also broke out sections of the car, by "Engine," "Suspension," "Body," "Interior," etc., to help keep it all straight. You could run a separate sheet for each version of the engine you might want to build - that way you can compare all the parts, their costs, etc., to help you come up with a budget, then you'll also have all the part numbers and vendor information ready to go when you decide to pull the trigger.

Who knew there was an actual use for some of the other things included in that Office software. :whistling:

 

[mustang7173]

Hello erikroy57,

Okay! Put everything aside for the moment and go purchase these two books from George Reid. I read them front to back several times to see how to do and figure out what I want.

How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford

by George Reid

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-to-rebuild-the-small-block-ford-george-reid/1009303937?ean=9781932494891#productInfoTabs

Ford 351 Cleveland Engines: How to Build for Max Performance

by George Reid

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/ford-351-cleveland-engines-george-reid/1113517427?ean=9781613250488&st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_Core+Shopping+Books_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP62465

Thanks,

mustang7173 :bravo:

hi mustang7173,

i dont have really a budget, and this is not my concern for the moment. im trying to learn how to put parts together to make something works and see what direction i could take

but as previous people said, i think i will stay with my 2V, i already got all the parts anyway.

Trying to put a mix of parts from here and there is not a good idea for a beginner.

 

[detritusmaximus]

I think you are a good way to your goal with the parts you have. The closed chamber 70 4v heads will work fine with your 73 dished 2v pistons, just not 'optimal'. Still, they will be better than 73 4v heads with the same dished pistons.

Keep your block as it is the matching numbers block to the car (unless it's been changed). By the way, are you certain it still has the original pistons in it? After 40+ years, who knows what could be in it.

The intake you have, is it square bore (all carb holes same size?) or spread bore (Two of the carb holes are way bigger than the other two?).

A squarebore carb (Holley or Edelbrock) is probably the way to go. The Holleys have the 'factory' look if you get the regular zinc dichromate finish (kind of yellow green).

A custom cam might not be a bad idea. Nothing crazy, just optimized for the combination you will have, including your trans/rear gears/tire size.

Factory air cleaner will bolt on.

This maintains a very factory look with the least hassle and expense. Some performance boost, but your not going for a bunch so it's okay. Provided the 2v block/crank/pistons are in good condition. I would get the existing engine checked out completely before committing. Don't do a bunch of work only to find out the rings or bearings are going. Find a good shop near you to check out the heads for cracks before spending any more money on anything and freshen them up (remember, new valves and hardened seats).

Keep all your old stuff, because you never know.

 

[jowens1126]

I would just follow this proven formula.

http://diyford.com/build-500-horsepower-ford-351-cleveland-engine/

 

[midlife]

I would just follow this proven formula.

http://diyford.com/build-500-horsepower-ford-351-cleveland-engine/

Somewhere I read that the best way to get to 500 hp with a 351C is to build it right then disable two cylinders...lollerz