Can the Instrument Cluster be Hard-Wired?

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Yes, most aftermarket dashes use various types of lugs at the back of their gauges, which also run lamps. The few I've seen require changing out the dash cluster connector as well.

 
Yes, a 71 to 73 dash cluster can be hard-wired. It's fairly straightforward if you have the right tools, lamp sockets, and a large array of old Ford wiring that can be recycled.

Here's the front view: (yes, all dash lamps are lit).

71hardwirefront.jpg


and the back view:

71hardwireback.jpg


The constant voltage regulator clips will be changed once I get separate male and female clips in about a week.

A few problems that I ran into:

(1) many of the dash lamps did not work when I first powered it up. I had recycled used 194 bulbs, and some had damaged contacts. I eventually got 14 good bulbs to work. Some of the socket contacts needed to be squeezed so that they would contact the bulb. I really don't like this bulb design.

(2) The fuel gauge was hard to get to work. It could be that the CVR was rusty and flakey. It also could be that the fuel contacts on back (bolts with retaining nuts) were very rusty; it could also be that the 90* slip-on connectors were not making good connections.

(3) I still don't know if there is enough clearance behind the center section for the wire bundle.

(4) There are two lines that are black/green (CVR in and CVR out). These wire colors are rare throughout all of the year's of vintage Mustangs. I swapped one wire out to another color (green).

(5) There are 12 ground connectors. This makes it difficult to tie all of them together to one line at the main connector.

Things I do like:

(1) I labeled every socket and connector with wire markers. There's too much chance of putting something in the wrong place.

(2) I added a good length of wire to the main connector so that one can remove the dash cluster a good ways so you can get both hands on the connector to break it apart.

(3) The cost of components I need to purchase is about $30.

Things that make me leery:

(1) It took 6 hours to wire up the dash cluster. Some of that time was spent figuring out how to run wires, but I doubt I can do it again in less than 3 hours.

(2) I thought about measuring all wire lengths from the connector so I could manufacture one from scratch, but I think it is much easier to use the dash cluster as the template and make each harness fit it.

(3) Because of the socket contacts, I'll need to test every harness.

(4) Any harness I do requires the main underdash dash cluster connector to be replaced. I can provide connector with wire pigtails for folks who don't need their underdash refurbished, but they will need to splice their harness into the pigtail.

So...the real questions are: how much demand is there for this conversion, and how much should I charge? At $40/hour for three hours plus parts means $150, nearly twice as much as a flexible circuit card. I think that is too much. I may start at $100 for the conversion and see how it goes. It all depends upon demand as well...I'll post this on some 69/70 Cougar forums.

 
I don't know what the issue are with the repros, but the complaints I hear are:

half of the dash lamps don't work

bad connections between circuit and lamp sockets

bad connections between circuit and connector

CVR's not applying power to the gauges

Having to buy a second board with no refund. My work would come with a 2 year warranty/guaranty to work as intended.

 
If this was "packaged" with an underdash harness refurb, would it be possible to address the dim lighting circuit?
There's nothing I can do in that regard. While working on this dash cluster, I think I figured out why the dash lamps are so dim. Looking at the picture I took, lamps with no diffusers are very bright (all the red lamps and the two top no bezel turn signal lamps). The diffusers distribute the light in all directions and they must diminish the intensity because of this and because the diffusers themselves are somewhat opaque and don't pass light well. When I did the test, I had a full 12V going to each lamp socket. The dimness appears to be in the design.

Here's what I'd recommend someone to try. First, remove each dash pad from the back and line the insides with aluminum foil to help reflect the light. Or paint the insides a bright shiny white. While in there, clean the diffusers as best as you can. Bend back the gauge face plate bottoms away from the front of the dash to allow more light to come in. If that doesn't make things brighter, then remove the diffusers and use blue or green 194 bulbs.

 
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