great! I just wanted to be sure and get some confirmation from some guys. I also put a very strong spring on there and it seems to be fine. I can't see any reason that a strong spring could hurt anything.
...in looking back at Jeff's post above from 3/27/14 where he states, "you need that spring from the linkage to the clutch fork to bring the clutch fork back and fully release the throw out bearing" I believe that statement made me skip past his post, as it is incorrect. The spring he's referring to only keeps compression on the adjustable release rod between the linkage and the clutch fork. This keeps the rod from possibly falling out during quick shifting. It has NOTHING to do with the return of the pedal. But then on 3/28/14 he speaks of using a brake drum spring and seems to be talking about the return spring we are now speaking of. No disrespect to Jeff, as I depend on kind people such as him for help but sometimes you'll find people will make comments without remembering the DETAILS correctly. When you are the guy seeking the advise, you are specifically interested in the DETAILS. Flippant comments, albeit with good intentions, can cause much confusion. I was making an attempt to clarify (diagrams with the red markings) for myself for confirmation but mostly to leave this thread with the correct info for the next guy, who is struggling to understand. I humbly, thank you all for your help in this forum. I certainly remember the days with no internet!
Just for further clarification, as it seems some may not have fully grasped this "clutch return" up to this point, I have written a dissertation on the subject. Please...tell me if I'm wrong but I don't think so. Again, I reiterate, the intent is to get the correct info out on the forum to
HELP others who are in need of information. If you'd like to debate, I welcome it, as that is how I/we learn from each other. If "you cannot handle the truth" and learn something new and your feelings get hurt 'cause something you posted was wrong, sorry. I tried to be gentle but you must
r e a d and let the information in before to just try to defend your incorrect position. That being said, what's done is done and I will certainly let bygones be bygones. (Hope he understands...but he's probably pissed) Here's how I see the "Clutch Return Issue" (atleast in my '73)
There are two "pull springs" located under the floor, outside of the car and one "push spring" located in the car, behind the tach in the dash. Each of the two exterior pull springs attach to one of two arms extending from the equalizer bar (z-bar) The equalizer bar rotates as the clutch pedal is pressed. The clutch pedal/arm is connected to a "clutch equalizer rod," (see diagram) under the dash and passes through the floor and connects to the first arm of the z-bar (frame side). It has a cotter pin to keep it intact. Just above that connection point, on the arm, is a second mounting hole. This hole is for the first "pull spring". (This is the spring I was missing) This "pull spring" spring also attaches to an adjacent hole on the frame. Since only one end of this spring can move (it's attached to the arm on the z-bar) and the other end is attached to a fixed point (the frame of the car) the pulling force will pull the arm of the z-bar toward the frame of the car. This direction is downward. The equalizer ROD, which is attached (and cotter pinned) to this arm, right next to the spring, will also get pulled downward by this spring. As the equalizer ROD is pulled down (through the floor), it pulls/rotates the clutch pedal/arm up, since it's attachment point on the clutch pedal arm is above the mounting pivot (axis of rotation).
Therefore, having a pull spring attached to the "frame side z-bar arm" connecting it to the frame, WILL return/help to return the clutch pedal to the "UP" position.
When the clutch
pedal/arm is pressed down, (the pull spring attached to the z-bar arm and the frame, under the car, is stretched out) the attachment point, of the clutch pedal arm & the equalizer rod (up under the dash) reach a zenith point "middle" (directly above the pivot point where the clutch pedal arm is attached to it's mounting bracket) and then continues to rotate "over-middle," as the pedal reaches the floor. It is at this point that the third spring (a push spring) the large diameter,
push spring, behind the Tach, in the dash bumps/pushes the clutch pedal arm back "over center." (If it's working correctly- bushings can be worn lessening it's effectiveness)
The last pull spring is attached to the other z-bar arm, under the car. It's other end attaches to the clutch fork (clutch arm sticking out of the transmission's bell housing) This pull spring's sole purpose is to keep compression upon the adjustable release rod so that it cannot lose contact with the clutch fork and fall out during quick shifting. Mechanically speaking, this pull spring is attached to two parts
which move (the z-bar arm and the clutch fork)
Since both parts move, the pull spring does not move either part. It merely holds them together. As the z-bar is rotated by the "frame side" z-bar arm being pulled
up (clutch pedal being pushed in) the "trans side" z-bar arm is rotated
rearward,
pushing the adj release rod into the clutch fork, disengaging the clutch. You adjust the adj release rod's length to a point where, while the clutch pedal is in it's up position (disengaged), you can feel some (very little but some) play between the adj release rod and the clutch fork) If it's adjusted too long (preloaded) you will have unnecessary clutch wear.(from being partially disengaged)
The spring which attaches to the clutch fork does not pull the clutch fork forward. With no spring attached to the clutch fork, the clutch fork will return to the frontward position. (engaged)
Really hope this helps someone...wow!
