Do I save it? 71 vert 351-4v ramair

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Joined
Oct 8, 2019
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Location
Missouri
My Car
1971 Mustang Convertible
1971 Mustang Mach I
1972 Mexican GT-351
1971 Mustang Convertible
1988 Bronco II
1970 Torino 4 door
I have this item posted as a carcass in the for sale area however I am still contemplating saving it. it is a 351-4V, ramair vert, 3.25 t-loc, Magnum 500, comp susp, gauges, etc BUT needs almost every sheet metal part replaced. Fenders and doors are good enough. I have a ramair hood, the seats in very good cond, correct dash, glass except w/s is damaged and many other parts to put it back together.
1. replace both apron assemblies (frame and aprons and shock towers) and radiator support (but not specific vert radiator support is being made and it is a different part number)
2. A-pillars are good. Doors can be pulled up and down with no relative motion (hinges and pillars good)
3. Cowls could maybe be patched. The upper is nice except at the drain areas at either end (where it meets aprons). Could be left as-is or patched. Lower apron is rusted thru at vent hat but only at the rear.
4. Lower portion of firewall is sketchy. Might be able to patch
5. Floors completely shot as are fwd torque boxes. I think using the dynacorn fastback floor is preferred but I will need to turn the flanges 180 or cut them off and weld. I will need at least LH inner rocker panel. Outer rockers are solid.
6. B-pillars are good but PO cut the LH inner some in the mounting area of the top. Can be repaired.
7. Rear torque boxes, trunk pan, trunk drops, inner and outer wheelhouses and quarter skins plus tail panel. Area around trunk and behind vert well are solid as are top of quarters but they are tweaked.

Pics enclosed of most of the areas. I am not against saving it and NOT looking to make money on it. I would undertake it as a challenge. I figure 5k at least in sheetmetal. The top actually worked and I have parts from another vert I stripped (302-2v and it was worse than this so no point in my opinion). My welding experience is limited. I am familiar with Cleco's and tooling/rigging (aero engineer plus other eng exp). I would use a laser to facilitate measurement verification. I also have an engine ready to go and just need new clutches and steels for a C6 (have case and all internal components). Drivetrain would not be numbers matched but somewhat correct. Open 4v heads and later C6 case. I do not have rearend except I do have leaf springs and axles so minor savings there.
 

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I'm the wrong guy to ask this, my last project before my Mach 1 was a 69 RS/SS 396 Camaro. The right car, numbers matching drivetrain, with all the right options and the right color combination, but the wrong car condition-wise to choose for a restoration project. I ended up replacing inner and outer rockers, inner and outer wheelhouses, trunk floor, rear frame rails, body back panel, cowl panels, floorboards, quarters, roof, fenders and doors. Miraculously, the factory cowl induction hood and deck lid were mint. I rebuilt the engine, transmission, differential, suspension, steering and brakes and installed all new wiring harnesses. Should I have done it? Probably not. Am I glad I did it? Yes, I love and enjoy the car and am proud to have saved a rare extremely well optioned car in IMO the best color combination they offered on that car. The car wins awards at car shows and I always think if only you saw it when I first saw it. I am still under the value of the car completed because I did my own labor and the guy at AMD sheet metal felt bad when I placed my order and offered me a 15% shop discount because I was ordering so much. If I paid to have it restored, I would have had over 100k in a 75k car.
That said and done if it is salvageable, I would save it because of it's pedigree, but like I said I 'm probably the wrong guy to ask, I love me a good challenge.

1969 Camaro  (57).jpg.
 

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The only question I would have is did the previous owner cut out the staggered shock support? That isn't available as a replacement part is it? That might just be the decision maker.
 
The only question I would have is did the previous owner cut out the staggered shock support? That isn't available as a replacement part is it? That might just be the decision maker.
Unfortunately the PO did. I would be willing to figure out what to do on that. I have 2 other cars with staggered shocks so I could maybe handform a replacement?
 
I'm the wrong guy to ask this, my last project before my Mach 1 was a 69 RS/SS 396 Camaro. The right car, numbers matching drivetrain, with all the right options and the right color combination, but the wrong car condition-wise to choose for a restoration project. I ended up replacing inner and outer rockers, inner and outer wheelhouses, trunk floor, rear frame rails, body back panel, cowl panels, floorboards, quarters, roof, fenders and doors. Miraculously, the factory cowl induction hood and deck lid were mint. I rebuilt the engine, transmission, differential, suspension, steering and brakes and installed all new wiring harnesses. Should I have done it? Probably not. Am I glad I did it? Yes, I love and enjoy the car and am proud to have kept a rare extremely well optioned car in IMO the best color combination they offered on that car. The car wins awards at car shows and I always think if only you saw it when I first saw it. I am still under the value of the car completed because I did my own labor and the guy at AMD sheet metal felt bad when I placed my order and offered me a 15% shop discount because I was ordering so much. If I paid to have it restored, I would have had over 100k in a 75k car.
That said and done if it is salvageable, I would save it because of it's pedigree, but like I said I 'm probably the wrong guy to ask, I love me a good challenge.

View attachment 83232.
Inspirational regardless. I would do it all myself except set the rear gear and I might even try that. I have the time easily. This car will only be at most a 30k car, more realistically 25k but I would have saved it. I would rather put the time and energy into a 429 but I can;t find one anyone is willing to part with.
 
Inspirational regardless. I would do it all myself except set the rear gear and I might even try that. I have the time easily. This car will only be at most a 30k car, more realistically 25k but I would have saved it. I would rather put the time and energy into a 429 but I can;t find one anyone is willing to part with.
I have to be honest it wouldn't be a monetary decision for me, I agree with you that it would be more about saving a unique well optioned car. The correct color combination for your car is awesome, that would make a beautiful convertible that would get loads of attention at shows, and best of all, it would be correct. I have painted all of my other cars the original factory colors but I couldn't find the right Mach (really wanted it to have fold down seat and factory A/C) that was originally white so I knew I was going to have to color change on this one. Fortunately mine was originally an H code and not an excessively optioned car, so IMO not a big sin.
I would think you should be able to find someone willing to cut the rear suspension brace out of a parts car with competition suspension.
I was actually tempted when I saw you post it for sale but I need to finish my Mach first. My usual play is once a project is finished I make sure I'm extra attentive to my wife. About a year later, I buy the next project when she has started to forget how these projects tend to consume my free time, it's a delicate balance, LOL.
 
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I have to be honest it wouldn't be a monetary decision for me, I agree with you that it would be more about saving a unique well optioned car. The correct color combination for your car is awesome, that would make a beautiful convertible that would get loads of attention at shows, and best of all, it would be correct. I have painted all of my other cars the original factory colors but I couldn't find the right Mach (really wanted it to have fold down seat and factory A/C) that was originally white so I knew I was going to have to color change on this one. Fortunately mine is an H code and not excessively optioned car, so IMO not a big sin.
I would think you should be able to find someone willing to cut the rear suspension brace out of a parts car with competition suspension.
I was actually tempted when I saw you post it for sale but I need to finish my Mach first. My usual play is once a project is finished I make sure I'm extra attentive to my wife. About a year later, I buy the next project when she has started to forget how these projects tend to consume my free time, it's a delicate balance, LOL.
No wife but longtime fiancee ,been together 13 yrs, could not look at the carcass without anxiety rising, lol. About 5 yrs min from her moving in so not an issue too much. I think part of her prefers me to have something to occupy my time. I want to paint 2 of my cars and my other vert is on the cusp of being complete. Ironically I am not overly stoked about bright red perhaps because I had a laser red 96 vert and there are some negative memories of that. I would say bright red is the iconic color for these cars thx to Diamonds are Forever.
 
No wife but longtime fiancee ,been together 13 yrs, could not look at the carcass without anxiety rising, lol. About 5 yrs min from her moving in so not an issue too much. I think part of her prefers me to have something to occupy my time. I want to paint 2 of my cars and my other vert is on the cusp of being complete. Ironically I am not overly stoked about bright red perhaps because I had a laser red 96 vert and there are some negative memories of that. I would say bright red is the iconic color for these cars thx to Diamonds are Forever.
I am not really a red guy either, my 80 Z28 is bright red only because that was the factory color and IMO they look pretty good in red. That is also true about convertibles, I really like red convertibles. Something about that combination, a drop top and bright red, just works for me.
 

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Wow, you sir are indeed fearless, you must have some mad welding skills. It looks like you replaced as much on your Mustang as I did on my Camaro. Like I have said since I was a teenager, "If you're going to be a bear, be a grizzly!"
Nice job bringing another one back from death's door!

1969 Camaro  (102).jpg1969 Camaro  (157).jpg
 
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I learned a LOT about welding on the '71 project, actually. I wasn't taking any chances though, and bolstered the whole thing with a set of Global West sub-frame connectors. ;)
 
What pond did you drag that out of?? Many people would just scrap that one. Kudo's for saving it.
Well, it did have a Sheppard AFB, TX (Wichita Falls) parking sticker on the bumper, so I like to joke about it having been found in the Red River. LOL!
 
I have this item posted as a carcass in the for sale area however I am still contemplating saving it. it is a 351-4V, ramair vert, 3.25 t-loc, Magnum 500, comp susp, gauges, etc BUT needs almost every sheet metal part replaced. Fenders and doors are good enough. I have a ramair hood, the seats in very good cond, correct dash, glass except w/s is damaged and many other parts to put it back together.
1. replace both apron assemblies (frame and aprons and shock towers) and radiator support (but not specific vert radiator support is being made and it is a different part number)
2. A-pillars are good. Doors can be pulled up and down with no relative motion (hinges and pillars good)
3. Cowls could maybe be patched. The upper is nice except at the drain areas at either end (where it meets aprons). Could be left as-is or patched. Lower apron is rusted thru at vent hat but only at the rear.
4. Lower portion of firewall is sketchy. Might be able to patch
5. Floors completely shot as are fwd torque boxes. I think using the dynacorn fastback floor is preferred but I will need to turn the flanges 180 or cut them off and weld. I will need at least LH inner rocker panel. Outer rockers are solid.
6. B-pillars are good but PO cut the LH inner some in the mounting area of the top. Can be repaired.
7. Rear torque boxes, trunk pan, trunk drops, inner and outer wheelhouses and quarter skins plus tail panel. Area around trunk and behind vert well are solid as are top of quarters but they are tweaked.

Pics enclosed of most of the areas. I am not against saving it and NOT looking to make money on it. I would undertake it as a challenge. I figure 5k at least in sheetmetal. The top actually worked and I have parts from another vert I stripped (302-2v and it was worse than this so no point in my opinion). My welding experience is limited. I am familiar with Cleco's and tooling/rigging (aero engineer plus other eng exp). I would use a laser to facilitate measurement verification. I also have an engine ready to go and just need new clutches and steels for a C6 (have case and all internal components). Drivetrain would not be numbers matched but somewhat correct. Open 4v heads and later C6 case. I do not have rearend except I do have leaf springs and axles so minor savings there.
I would fix this nice ride
 
I would save it. It was a nicely optioned car when new, and would definitely be a head turner if restored to it's former glory. Takes a bunch of time and money, but if you can, I would vote to save it. Like Mister 4x4, I saved the Rickster, even when friends suggested it would be better to part it out (I think most of the useful parts were already taken), but I opted to move forward and restore it.

They aren't making any more of these cars, and it sounds like you have a good handle on what needs to be done. I hope you do restore it. It will be a beauty when you're done.
 
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